First start....

[ImALoserBaby]

It seems many of us were starting our new cars for the first time this weekend. For what it's worth, here are my observations and I'd welcome any comments;

 

1) The six speed box takes considerably under 2 litres of oil

2) Caterham didn't fit the 30amp fuse for the ECU - lots of clicking but otherwise nothing until we realised.

3) One of the plugs to the MFU was miss-wired according to the wiring diagram - only transposed two relay switching wires so probably not crucial however.

4) Caterham ommited to tighten some of the fuel unions at each end of the fuel filter. We didn't check (wrongly assuming factory installed fittings were attached properly). We ended up with fuel all over the floor.

5) There's a clump of 4 or 5 black wires terminating in an O connector near the ECU/MFU. It doesn't suggest that these are conencted to the -ve terminal of the battery, but it's an assumption we made.

6) The oil pressure sender wire was not connected to the oil pressure sender - it was tucked away in the engine loom (and a little too short). Perhaps somone couldn't be bothered to rectify when the engine as built and left it off. We added a 2" piece of wire so it now reaches.

7) It sounds lovely when it does start

8) Same airlock problems as everyone has I think. Not too tricky to fix.

9) The odometer started at 0.7miles. Finished at 5.2 miles at the end of the weekend. Only covered 30 yards in and out of the garage (twice). The odometer seemed to increment during almost every ignition on / off cycle. Any ideas?

10) How does the imobiliser work? If I don't do a full 'lock' (3 beeps) and unlock (1 beep) each time, but merely unlock (after the car has been left standing for a while and the imobiliser kicks in?) she only fires until the imobiliser cuts it out.

11) There's a very high pitched beep from the ECU for about 5 minutes after the car is switched off. It then resets and shuts up. Is this the imobilser? Does any ones else do this.

 

Car is an SV (160) and as I say, it's all been worth it so far, but ANY comment on the above gratefully received!

 

[CharlesElliott]

My thoughts are:

 

1) As does the 5-speed .

2) Fine for me .

3) Fine for me .

4) Fine for me (and I did check them).

5) Yes, the manual doesn't seem to mention this one. The wiring diagram/checklist says that it should go to the engine block, attaching to the lifting eye bolt. However, on my engine (1.6 K) the bolt is too big to go through the hole so I also attached it direct to the -ve battery terminal.

6) Fine for me .

7) Yes, even my 1.6 sounds good! Much better than the 1.8 I used to have in the Elise (100% due to the exhaust I would suggest).

8) Sounds like I've fixed mine but still need to check - and I thought it was supposed to be simple without a heater.

9) Mine did/does the same .

10) Haven't played with this yet.

11) I think this is the immobiliser auto-arming itself.

 

Charles

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My Caterham Academy 2004 Diary

[Red SLR]

At least your started 😬

 

My speedo did the same thing - I think it needed changing to fix...

 

 

[ImALoserBaby]

Charles,

 

Thanks for the comprehensive relpy. I was feeling quite pleased with the w/end anwyay (also got the cycle and rear wings on too - and they look pretty neat), but your answers put any niggling thoughts of having a lemon to rest. Thanks!

 

Andrew

[Grubbster]

1) So does the 5 speed

2) I had the fuse but the ignition switch was wiring wrongly (a different problem)

3) I thought mine was wired incorrectly, but I don't think it is - the book just doesn't make it very clear.

4) No problems with fuel installation

5) The book says to connect these to the engine lifting point (near the battery) but the ring terminal isn't big enough, so I replaced it with a larger size.

6) Mine was OK

7) Damn right!

8) Same airlock problems as everyone has I think. Same here!

9) I also accumulated 6.7 miles withought going anywhere!

10) To set the immobiliser (once) press lock 4 times, then unlock, after this it should function correctly. It does set itself if you forget to.

11) There's a very high pitched beep from the ECU for about 5 minutes after the car is switched off. It then resets and shuts up. Mine does the same - I read that others do as well!

 

 

 

See some photo's of the build here

 

[ImALoserBaby]

One other thing I've just remembered;

 

12) Every time I switch the ignition on (ready to hit the red button) the fuel pump goes mad. I guess the pressure slowly dies away when you switch off and it's just pumping things back up. Is this preferable to having the car sit around with at least some of the fuel ( forward of the pump ) constantly under pressure?

[Bob Corb]

7) Yes, but ours carries on sounding lovely even when you turn off.... alternator wiring / tacho wiring cocked up!

 

11) The IACV (valve on side of throttle) squeeks at v high pitch until the master relay cuts out ~5mins after shut down.

 

12)How do you mean - fuel pump goes mad?

 

Most cars will pump for a second then stop until you start cranking, the ecu waits for a crank signal until it puts the pump on continually. This just primes the system ready to go as soon as you key on. The wifes vw primes the pump when you opne the door!?

[CharlesElliott]

11) Mine does that as well.

 

Charles

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My Caterham Academy 2004 Diary

[Frying Pan]

All

 

A bit late I know, but here's my 'First Start' experiences (Apologies for SHOUTING below, but makes it easier to read my reponses I hope!):

 

1) The six speed box takes considerably under 2 litres of oil - AGREED. ABOUT 1.2LITRES

2) Caterham didn't fit the 30amp fuse for the ECU - lots of clicking but otherwise nothing until we realised. - MINE WAS FITTED

3) One of the plugs to the MFU was miss-wired according to the wiring diagram - only transposed two relay switching wires so probably not crucial however. - MINE WAS FINE

4) Caterham ommited to tighten some of the fuel unions at each end of the fuel filter. We didn't check (wrongly assuming factory installed fittings were attached properly). We ended up with fuel all over the floor. - MY KIT WAS DELIVERED WITH THE FUEL FILTER IN THE COCKPIT, AS THE FUEL UNION O-RINGS WERE OUT OF STOCK. IT WAS A FIDDLY BUGGER TO FIX TO THE ALI PANEL, BUT NO LEAKS!

5) There's a clump of 4 or 5 black wires terminating in an O connector near the ECU/MFU. It doesn't suggest that these are conencted to the -ve terminal of the battery, but it's an assumption we made. - MY BUILD MANUAL SAID TO CONNECT THESE TO THE ENGINE BLOCK (LIFTING EYE BOLT).

6) The oil pressure sender wire was not connected to the oil pressure sender - it was tucked away in the engine loom (and a little too short). Perhaps somone couldn't be bothered to rectify when the engine as built and left it off. We added a 2" piece of wire so it now reaches. - MINE WAS FINE

7) It sounds lovely when it does start - OH YES 😬

8) Same airlock problems as everyone has I think. Not too tricky to fix. - SAME HERE. NOT TOO BAD TO FIX

9) The odometer started at 0.7miles. Finished at 5.2 miles at the end of the weekend. Only covered 30 yards in and out of the garage (twice). The odometer seemed to increment during almost every ignition on / off cycle. Any ideas? - THEY ALL DO THAT SIR 😬

10) How does the imobiliser work? If I don't do a full 'lock' (3 beeps) and unlock (1 beep) each time, but merely unlock (after the car has been left standing for a while and the imobiliser kicks in?) she only fires until the imobiliser cuts it out. - DIDN;T TRY THIS. MY LED DID NOT COME ON AT FIRST. AFTER FOUR PRESSES OF THE PLIP, I HEARD A RELAY CLICK, AND THE CAR MOBILISED. AFTER THIS, LED WORKED AS EXPECTED.

11) There's a very high pitched beep from the ECU for about 5 minutes after the car is switched off. It then resets and shuts up. Is this the imobilser? Does any ones else do this. - NOT FORM THE ECU. I THINK THIS IS STEPPER MOTOR / IACV

 

Other observations:

 

- The horn is VERY loud

- There's a lot of oily smoke in the first few minutes!

- The cooling fan is very noisy

- The audible indicator noise is a good idea (or will it bug me to death?)

- I like the 'urgent' noise the starter makes 😬

 

Three issues:

- Fuel gauge not working . Only put 5 litres in, but expected a bit of movement on the dial. It's connected, so something to check further

- Headlamp flash not working. Main beam via the switch is fine, and the switch is connected

- Couldn't find the 'two brown wires terminated with a ring connector' to connect to battery +ve. Pretty sure this is because I have a master switch - There are a number of wires on these terminals.

 

Good feeling to hear it come to life, isn't it!

 

Guy

 

 

 

See some pictures of the build here

[ImALoserBaby]

Guy,

 

Just read your comments - Nice one!

 

A few comments on your comments;

 

Yes, the cooling fan is noisy - but it's nothing when on the road / nose on / bonnet on.

The indicator noise is loud - but at motorway speeds it needs to be. I think it's something I'll get used to and I'd rather have it bug me than ocassionally forget to turn them off.

 

My fuel guage didn't do anything until I got >10 litres in the tank. Give that a go before you decide there's a more serious problem.

 

My headlamp flasher wasn't connected and that was all that was wrong. If yours is, make sure they make a good contact - the spade connectors are much larger than the spades they connect to and so sometimes don't connect too well. The flasher switch also has four connections on the back that connect / disconnect in various combinations when the switch is moved (I guess it makes the switch 'universal') - it may be that you have your two wires on the wrong connections. Quick continuity check (or trial and error) should sort you out!

 

Cheers,

 

Andy

 

[CharlesElliott]

Guy,

 

I agree with Andy's comments on the fuel gauge and the flasher switch (I know of a few people that have had this problem now!)

 

The horn is *very* loud! I'd miswired the steering wheel and when I first turned the battery master switch I almost deafened myself.

 

You shouldn't be able to find the two brown wires - they are connected to the BMS. I had this concern - don't you read my diary?

 

 

Charles

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My Caterham Academy 2004 Diary

[brentus]

Thanks for the info about resetting the immobiliser, a week too late though

 

It started ran, cut out, wouldn't start, cut out, all sorts. i think Very calm gentle pressing ( )of the immobiliser button must have done the necessary 4 clicks to reset

 

SVA on Friday, but front brake probs like most. Not had/having PBC though. Even Midlands is 2 hours away.

 

red and black Academy

waiting for my SVA test

[CharlesElliott]

Not had/having PBC though. Even Midlands is 2 hours away.

 

Brave man - good luck!

 

 

Charles

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My Caterham Academy 2004 Diary

[Tony C]

Apparently, the engine will run-on for a few seconds after the ignition is switched off if the cooling fan is running.

 

According to Chris W, the electics whiz, this is because during fan run-down it acts as a generator, maintaining the required voltage to the ECU and only when this voltage to the ECU drops will the ignition actually cut.

 

So I guess "they all do that sir" 😬

 

BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

[Frying Pan]

You shouldn't be able to find the two brown wires - they are connected to the BMS. I had this concern - don't you read my diary?

😳 Not closely enough!

 

Guy

 

See some pictures of the build here

[Frying Pan]

Fixed the headlamp flash - harness was connected to the 'normally closed' and 'momentary open' terminals on the switch, so moved the 'normally closed' to 'supply' and I can now flash 😬

 

Torqued up the front suspension this evening. Well, most of it. How the hell do you get a torque wrench to the LHS top wishbone rear mounting And to the bottom wishbone rear mountings

 

To do the top wishbone front mounts, I had to undo the front ARB mountings and move it out of the way, but got this done at least.

 

Started it up again. No reason. Just wanted to. Still sounds nice 😬

 

Cheers

 

Guy

 

See some pictures of the build here

[ImALoserBaby]

When it came to the 'tricky to reach' bolts that needed torquing I relied on what felt right to get the right torque. It's amazing what your experienced spanner arm knows!

 

You'll probably get it very close this way - certainly well within the limits of it undoing or being too tight.

 

 

[Slarty Blat Fast]

My fuel guage didn't do anything until I got >10 litres in the tank. Give that a go before you decide there's a more serious problem.

I understand that when the guage reads zero there should be about 5 litres left in the tank as a reserve.

 

 

Absolutely no hitchhikers