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Changing Camber


Delberts Wallet

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Gareth,

 

Exactly as you have suggested. Simply remove the upper link balljoint nut and rotate in/out and tighten up the locknut. Replace ball joint nut. You will have to support the upright during the process.

 

As to how many turns in/out equates to how much camber change I suggest one of the more techie guys will answer that or give the factory a call. Whatever, obviously the same both sides!

 

Brian

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Don't forget that when you alter camber like this, you alter the tracking. You will have to reset tracking also.

 

"You will have to support the upright during the process."

 

Suggest you jack up the car until tyre is just touching ground i.e. suspension at full droop. A clout with a hammer on the upright will usually loosen the taper on the top ball joint.

 

Paul R.

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Right. I've taken another look at adjusting the camber but am unable to get the ball joint out. I've spoken to Caterham and they suggested that I use a ball joint splitter.

 

Which is the easiest method baring in mind I've never used a ball joint splitter and wouldn't be that sure how to put it back together again.

 

Any comments please...

 

 

 

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I've never had any luck with the clouting method (although I've seen other people do it - and no a nylon-headed hammer won't do it!), and it's difficult to see how you'd get a splitter in there without wrecking the rubber boot on the balljoint.

 

I use a suitable sized socket and a suitable lump of metal (if you built the car then the lug you hacksawed off the back of the diff is perfect). The lump of metal sits on the upright directly below the nut/stud of the balljoint. A suitably sized socket sits on top of the lump of metal, possibly packed up with a larger washer or two, such that as you undo the nut (with an open-ended spanner) the nut starts to bear on the socket just after the nyloc has cleared the end of the stud. As you continue to undo the nut it can't travel down because it is hard up against the socket, and the socket is hard up against the lump of metal, and the lump of metal is sitting on the upright. Eventually there's a big bang and the balljoint pops.

 

Mike

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A ball joint splitter comes in a few varieties. The best (I've found) are the ones that are a bit like a very big clothes peg, with a wopping bolt that's done up at one end to force the other end together. The other end has a v-cut out to position above the ball part (bearing on the upright) and an arm to position on the thread of the ball joint protruding from the upright. Use a nut to push on to prevent damageing the thread. Simply do up the big bolt and -bang- the joint comes apart without resorting to a hammer.

 

Putting joints back together can be tricky - you try and do up the nut and the ball just rotates as the taper hasn't locked. Nylocs are the worst for doing this. Clean the surface of the taper and the hole in the upright very carefully and ensure no grease is present. Then push the two together in a sharp smooth motion (similar to inserting tool heads in a Morse taper on a drill / mill etc).

 

Shouldn't cost you more than a few quid from halfords - as always buy decent kit 'cos it's taking a lot of force. I'd avoid anything where a hammer is involved as they have a nasty habit of contacting stuff they shouldn't. If you do use one then get something to spread the load.

 

Cheers

 

Piers

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