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Passenger outboard shoulder harness bolt/FIA bar (SV)

Tony C

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The Assembly guide doesn't mention that with the FIA bar fitted to the SV (and maybe 'narrow' cars too) 😬 it is impossible to then fit the passenger outboard shoulder strap bolt. [W] It does mention to fit the FIA bar before the rear shocks though.


I've just managed to lift the passengers side of the bar high enough to get the harness bolt in without having to completely remove the FIA bar - didn't even scratch the paint. *thumbup*


The car is on four axle stands at their highest setting. I removed the LH lower shock bolt while supporting the De Dion tube on a suitable length of wood; and then the upper shock bolt - both came out like a charm (courtesy of LOTS of copper grease used when fitting) and the De Dion didn't move.


I then removed all the LH side FIA bar bolts. plus the bolts in the two rear diagonals.


I then CAREFULLY levered-up the LH side of the bar base-plate with two screwdrivers (padded underneath with paper towel to protect the paintwork), high enough to insert a 1/2" socket between the chassis and the bar base-plate. Important to be careful not to lift it too high, to prevent the boss on the base of the FIA bar coming out of the hole in the chassis. The 1/2" socket is just the right diameter to hold the base-plate at the right height to get the harness bolt in - JUST.


It's necessary to wind down the harnes bolt as you're lowering the FIA bar to prevent the bolt head hitting the underside of the daigonal bar. When first fitting the FIA bar, I greased-up the boss and 'socket' and this may have helped a bit.


Now having a celebratory cup of tea and TWO chockie biccies 😬


Hope this help someone 😬





BRG SV kit. 😬 Engine in - no problem *thumbup*

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Well done Tony,


It is the same for the non-SV cars too. I have to say I simply and carefully shortened the bolt a little so that i could just get it in - and so that afterwards it still goes all of the way through the top rail - essential for a competition car - but I have omitted all the washer/spacer gubbins and firmly fixed the strap so that it is locked in position.



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You might also be interested to know that the Assembly guide tells you to fit the FIA bar before fitting the rear shock absorbers. Fair enough: the rear shocks obscure the vertical bolt fitted upwards into the FIA bar boss, so you cant fit the FAI bar with the rear shocks in place.


UNFORTUNATELY, it's not just the outboard passenger shoulder harness which is the problem.


With the FIA bar in place it's impossible to insert your trusty 'Black-and-Decker' to drill the holes for the boot cover/tonneau cover poppers - so off has to come the rear shocks in order to remove the FIA bar again *eek* This sort of thing is a Royal PITA 🙆🏻.


Best to leave the car on axle stands and leave the rear shocks and FAI bar not fitted until all the stuff at the back end is finished - thanks for this excellent advice miraz *thumbup* *thumbup* *thumbup*


I agree wholeheartedly: this sort of thing (Assembly Guide mistakes and omissions) would make an excellent 7faq section. I'm making a list.





BRG SV kit. 😬 Getting ready to bruumm, bruumm *thumbup*

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Thanks again for the additional information.


For clarity, do you suggest leaving the rear shocks and FIA bar off (and hence the car on stands) until after the engine/gbox has been fitted etc?


The assembly guide appears to be in a logical sequence, but from what you say this seems to be NOT TRUE. *mad*


Can you see any reason why I couldn't fit FIA bar, Harnesses and Boot Cover (anything else?) just prior to completing the Rear Suspension, or is there another "gotcha" waiting on this approach?

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I think it's a REAL good idea to have the car sitting on its wheels when fitting the engine/gearbox.


There's a need for a bit of CAREFUL grunting and heaving to get the gearbox to go 'into' the prop shaft (length of 2 by 4 works wonders as a lever between the chassis and front of engine when the prop shaft is lined-up) and I wouldn't want to shove it off the axle stands.


It's is said that there's an advantage to having the front wheels on the ground and the back up on stands, but I think that's not really necessary, other than to have sufficient clearance to get under and fit the gearbox mounting bolts. Miraz and I fitted mine from above, just the two of us.


A good engine crane with a proper 1metre strop (1000kg), with the strop fitted around the engine between inlet branch 2 and 3, gives the 'correct' angle of approach (gearbox hangs down, but can be manipulated in the vertical quite easily by one person). A bit of cardboard to protect the top of the tunnel entry is required and just make like you're putting on a shoe. Took two of us about half an hour tops. 😬


The rear shocks can be left off, but you need them fitted to the drop the car onto its wheels for engine insertion. They do come off quite easily and the whole thing doesn't go 'ka-sprang' when you undo the bolts (but my SV has a Watt linkage, which might help to hold everything lined-up). After the engine is in, you can put it back on the stands and work away quite happily.


You can complete the entire rear suspension and just take-off the shocks again - no biggy! AND leave the FIA bar off until all the boot cover holes have been made. I still haven't put mine back on yet and I'm nearly ready to 'light the blue touch paper' - not while it's on stands, I might add.


The average trolley jack can't lift the car high enough to get the axle stands to maximum extension. I bought an engine crane (folding legs, 1 tonne) from Machine Mart - the best tool money I ever spent - a 'crawler' was another good buy. Some sort of seat of the right height help greatly too - I use an old upturned kitchen garbage bin, it's just the right height.


On the whole, I'd have to say the Assembly guide is not TOO bad.





BRG SV kit. 😬 Getting ready to bruumm, bruumm *thumbup*

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You don't need the rear shocks for engine insertion, as you only really need to drop the front end down onto the ground.


The simplest approach is to build the whole of the rear end of the car up in one go which does mean skipping around the build manual a little bit.


Something like this order should work reasonably well.

1. Fit the diff and propshaft

2. Fit the rear suspension excluding the shocks

3. Fit the boot cover, tonneau, boot carpet, rear bulkhead carpet and harnesses

4. Fit the FIA bar

5. Fit the shocks


Then you shouldn't need to go back and undo any of your hard work...

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Tony / Miraz

Thanks for the advice and guidance which is much appreciated.


I'm sure you're right about the jack, but how many "pairs of hands" does it need to lift the car (without engine and gbox) onto or off the stands?


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