Ron_F

Guys, Thanks for your feedback, maybe I'm a bit thick 😳 but how/why would reduced braking effort cause the osf to lock up earlier? Surely, if the braking effort was reduced as a result of a mechanical problem (sticking piston etc), then the osf brake would not be able to lock the wheel at all. Currently it locks it than sooner than the nsf. Is this a case where the application of common sense doesn't work Ron

Not sure if I want to re-open this debate but I do have another "silly question" about my big brakes During a recent MOT, both myself and the tester noticed that the off-side front brake locked up much earlier that the near side front, i.e the osf brake gave less braking than the nsf brake. The car was well within the permitted limits (so it passed) but neither of us could understand why one side gave significantly less braking than the other. When the brake balance was tested, both rollers going, the dials progressed at an equal pace, but it was always the osf that locked first. When tested individually, the nsf gave about 1.5 times the braking force of the osf. The car is an SV140 with the uprated Caterham big brakes, 7800 miles since new, still plenty of pads I had previously noted that the osf tyre was always the first to lock when pressing on, I put this down to uneven weight distribution. On the Brake test rollers, both wheels would have the same mechanical grip, so what would cause the osf to lock first?

OK, stupidity completely exposed Adrian and Brent had it right......drill set to reverse In my defence....it is easily moved by accident AND I don't use reverse often AND my bits are old .... I'll shut up now and just accept that I look an 🙆🏻

Thanks for all the kind suggestions, especially jingars Haven't had time to investigate further today but promise to report back when my full stupidity has been thoroughly exposed

I'm having lots of problems trying to drill a couple of small holes (2mm) in the Ali floor of my SV. Tried normal (black) and titanium (yellow) HSS drill bits but they don't want to "bite" into the metal, on both slow and high speed settings. End up with nice polished dimples in the floor Thought it would be easy, aluminium is soft isn't it? Am I missing something Are there special bits for aluminium? Any advice would be appreciated.

Chris, Thanks for your input. Yes, I should have said "below the Top of the plates". It didn't need too much demineralised water to get the level above the plates, so it can't have been too low. As you say, we'll see over the next month or so, depending upon the weather ☹️ cheers Ron

Chris W Like you, I have a Draper Conditioner, used it continously all last winter with no problems. However, this autumn due to circumstances beyond my control (age and forgetfulness 😳 ) , the water level in the battery fell below the plates. last weekend I topped it up and put back on the Draper. Do you think the battery will recover its ability to retain charge or is it likely to be permanently damaged? I'm hoping my mistake won't be too expensive cheers Ron

Jon, I hope your wife knows that you're "making enquiries" If you don't tell her, I will *biggrin* sorry Tony Edited by - Ron_F on 6 Oct 2005 13:50:10

All, CC have clearly received many complaints from new owners about the quality of their differentials. What is most disturbing is that they are still willing to say TADTS, and seem to get away with it ❗ Although after two years I have sort of got used to it, but I still feel let-down and disappointed by this blot on my "dream-car" Anyone driven or ridden in a CSR? Perhaps the problem has been solved?

MAK, I had a new diff fitted by Caterham Midlands at my Post Build Check in June 2003. Still making dreadful noises, especially on a light or trailing throttle, so the car went down to Dartford for a 2nd new diff, apparently one of a new batch from the supplier, Mitchell Cotts. Two years later I have accepted TADTS, but I'm still not happy with the noise it makes. Interesting comment, Brent. I thought LSDs were supposed to be noisier?

Franky, I routed the coolant pipe through the eye. However, I too thought the edge a bit sharp so used a short piece of the same pipe, split down the length and slid over through the metal eye as protection. Fits very neatly. cheers Ron

Simple trigonometry

Well, I suppose it is a relief to know that I'm not alone with my problem *eek* However, it's also a bit disappointing to hear that a rebuild by such a respected organisation as R&R still didn't solve it. I know that plate LSDs are noisier, does a Quaife ATB also make the same ugly noises?

My SV140 has made those sort of noises from new, despite a number of diff replacements under warranty. The worst bit is the metallic growling on a light or trailing throttle. I have been given the "they all do that, sir" line, but am still not happy. Any suggestions for differential rebuilders in the Midlands?

Found it Covered the end with a small piece of tape Blissful silence Steve, Thanks a lot for your description which led me straight to it. Ron