John Vine Posted April 15 Share Posted April 15 Re the CRB, the correct one is made by INA (p/n F202994). It was designed to fit the Ford clutch fork and will fit snugly (Ford FINIS 6124270, p/n 83BB 7548 AA). The SKF one that CC supplies will work fine but tends to be a little sloppy on the fork. The INA part is not so easy to find these days but there are alternatives (such as LuK). The O-ring for the selector shaft only applies to the 6-speed box (no gasket). Agree about the washer tube for the pivot pin. IIRC, the original sleeve was rubber. Personally, I'd try Redline for the lot. JV 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skipper555 Posted April 15 Author Share Posted April 15 Thanks for the recommendations, much appreciated. I'll take a look at them. Looking at what's fallen off it does seem to bit of old washer fluid pipe. I'll see what I have in my garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skipper555 Posted April 24 Author Share Posted April 24 Still putting it all back together, but I found it interesting that the LuK CRB I ordered is actually the same SKF one that I'm replacing.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted April 25 Share Posted April 25 14 hours ago, Skipper555 said: Still putting it all back together, but I found it interesting that the LuK CRB I ordered is actually the same SKF one that I'm replacing.... Interesting! Thanks for the update. JV 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skipper555 Posted May 11 Author Share Posted May 11 Well after all my effort of fetching the engine and box out, new seals and gaskets, cleaning it all up and new fluids, it still seems to be leaking 😔 I used blue Hylomar on the gaskets to try and ensure it was sealed properly. Going through this process I can see what seals where, so I'm confused as to why is still leaking. And it's not consistent. It was dry for a few days, then suddenly there's some oil. I'm not sure why it's still leaking. The only thing that I can think is the heavy duty bush at the bottom of the front of the gearbox, however I couldn't work out how this could be removed or sealed, and it never leaked from this point while it was sitting on my bench for several weeks with some oil still in the box. I'll have to manage it and monitor it for now and try to take it out at some point in the future. Just a bit frustrating. Although I've learnt a lot about the car while doing this 😅 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbcollier Posted May 12 Share Posted May 12 Ugh, gearbox leaks! They can leak from a wide variety of places and, frankly, if it is minor, it’s just the gods trying rust proof your chassis. One tricky leak is by the bolts themselves. Most Ford boxes have bolt holes that are not blind but go right through the casing. Oil can leak along the threads, past the split washer and out. You can either seal the threads or fit copper washers. I tend to do the latter myself, the former requires clean and dry threads or the sealer won’t work. Sealers: did you know gear oil attacks many “silicone” sealers? Yup, even sealers designed for engine oil. Make sure your chosen sealer is gear oil proof. Permatex makes a specific sealer for gear oil. If using “silicone” sealers. Use them sparingly. You do not want globs of sealer forming, breaking off, and floating around in your oil. Especially if you have a tranny with an oil pump. Selectors: some boxes have selectors that are open at one end or the other, and they don’t use o-rings, just a “snug” fit. The shaft/bore wears over time and it the normal slight weep turns to a leak. About the only solution is to have a machine shop bush the bore for you. You can also just live with it and check the level at regular intervals. I have also seen selector shaft bore holes lose their end caps, not an obvious one if you don’t know it should be there. Seals: do not install seals dry. A bit of non-hardening sealer around the outside (I use Permatex 3H) and lube the seal lip with light grease! Check where the seal lip runs. If it has worn a groove, you may need to fit a repair sleeve. Gaskets: do not install dry. Lightly greased or a light coat of non-hardening sealer. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skipper555 Posted May 12 Author Share Posted May 12 Thanks, that's really useful and comprehensive information. I do suspect those bolts on the bush. Copper washers are a neat idea. I'll see if I can add those when I get it apart again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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