Super Sprint with zetec not starting

[robert green]

Today was the first chance since October to get the car out. I charged the battery, and all seems well. Key to first position, fuel pump buzzes away happily, and when everything is ready I prime the carbs, turn the key, and all power disappears.

I have checked the connections to the battery, and also the earth to the block.  Next steps are to check the connections to the starter motor and solenoid I assume. Any other ideas so that I can check everything in turn logically to get to the bottom of this. Will my multimeter help me, and if so how?!

Thanks! 

[Jonathan Kay]

Multimeter set to 20 V DC or similar.

Check the battery voltage at rest, and the minimum as you try to start.

Jonathan

PS: Would you like a wiring diagram?

[Jonathan Kay]

Do you have some fat jump leads and another vehicle or battery?

Jonathan

[robert green]

Thank you Jonathan. A wiring diagram may be useful. The battery came off a ctek that seemed to think the battery was ok, so I had ruled that out. Certainly worth check it's voltage under load, I suppose. 

[Jonathan Kay]

Private Message sent.

Jonathan

[John Vine]

Have you checked the electrolyte levels in the battery?  There are reports that prolonged use of some battery conditioners can lead to low levels (although not with my Accumate, fortunately).

JV

[barry watts]

If you have a red key emergency cut off switch try turning it on and off a few times. If that doesn't work try a little pressure on the key as you crank the engine.  Happened on my crossflow.

[Nigel Riches]

This could be the same fault which got me, the switch isn't the most strongly made thing, and when you key it to the start position can over run the contacts, thus losing electrical power to the places it needs to be.

The back of the switch can be removed from the lock barrel assembly, The cables pass through a plastic cover which is a snap fit on the back of the barrel, prise this off, and the electrical switch can be accessed. 

If you place a suitable sized screwdriver blade in the hole where the shaft comes from the key end, you can get an idea if the switch is porked. Also worth connecting a multi meter to the terminals, check for volts.

Hope it doesn't get this industrial, it's a bit of an act too get in there under the dashboard.

If it is the switch they are widely available, fitted to many Brit cars over the years.

  

[robert green]

Thanks for the replies. 
John, it is a agm sealed unit, so can't be that on this occasion. 
Barry, that is worth a try and not something I had considered. Thanks. 
Nigel, as above , but I hope not!!!!! 
I will confirm the cause when I get to the bottom of it. My biggest issue is getting time with the car, which is probably why I'm in this situation in the first place. Cars are better used! 
 

[Golf Juliet Tango]

I find an adaptor to measure voltage off the power outlet (cigarette lighter) is useful. Then I can see the voltage as I try to start the car. 

[robert green]

Connecting up a noco booster pack tonight got it going, so it is just the battery. I must admit the ctek had led me to believe the battery was fine and holding charge, so a measuring the voltage is the only real way to be sure. GJT, do you have a link for your adaptor, or something similar? Thanks all.