LSD not L'ing the S in the D

[graearea]

heyyy.

so I noticed whilst chasing my friend in his 1.6 that traction out of slow corners is terrible. I'm spinning my inside wheel instead of sliding out of the corner. so I guess somewhere along the 50k miles it has lunched the LSD. I've lifted the rear and out of gear turning a wheel, one wheel spins.

so what do I do?

it's a factory fitted LSD so I'd assume a titan on a bmw diff. is there any way of checking this?

how difficult a job is pulling out the pumpkin to send it off to Road and Race? or do I pull the diff itself? I have axle stands and limited access to a big gun to pop the axle nuts (I can probably drive it to a local garage then push it back to the garage) are there any guides about?

anyone else that fits these?

cheers!

[Amos91]

Types of LSD are here. You have to pull a driveshaft out to look inside. 

I would just take the whole diff for rebuild as it will be much easier and then they can set the preload all correct for your diff. 

You should be able to do the hub nut with a breaker bar. Have the car on the ground in gear / handbrake on.

[Nigel B]

You can simply unbolt the dedion ears, no need to undo the hub nuts.

[graearea]

that was what I was wondering.

so I should be able to undeo the dedion ears (whatever they are, I'll go have a find out) and then pull the driveshafts out and I can look in and figure out the diff

well, it's likely a job for post-nurburgring!

thanks chaps.

[ScottR400D]

What year is the car? Is it a BMW diff? (Black casing as opposed to Aluminium Ford)

That might give a clue as to what's in there. 

[graearea]

2007 with a ford casing. 

[ScottR400D]

Unlikely to be a Titan then as far as I know. Others will know what is most likely. 
 

I drafted the following when i removed and refitted my BMW Diff (3 times!) I have sent it to other members who say they found it useful so you may well do too.

 

Diff removal, refitting.

PREPARATION

Loosen rear wheel nuts, jack car and support on axle stands, with front wheels chocked. Not too high but high enough to allow diff, possibly on the jack platform, to come out under the de dion.

REMOVAL

Remove rear wheels.

Select 1st gear, handbrake on and undo the 4 prop bolts. (If removing the prop, drain gearbox oil or have a tray to collect spill from tail shaft housing.)

Undo calipers, 2 bolts each, don’t lose the spacers! Carefully lift callipers clear of disc and cable tie to damper spring. Pipes will give easily enough.

Disconnect speed sensor and roll bar links from brackets both sides. Tape sensor to chassis out of harms way.

Suck oil from diff. If you have .8L in it won’t leak, if you have 1.2L in it will! (BMW)

Remove the 2 bolts and the nuts on the other 2 bolts, on each side, that fasten the ear to the end of the de Dion. No need to loosen the two bolts in the ears that don’t go into the de Dion.

Remove each drive shaft c/w disc/hub/ear.

Remove the A frame. Note how many washers each side at front.

Remove the ARB.

BMW, if removing carrier and diff together:

Remove cable ties and whatever arrangements holds the handbrake cable to the chassis bars. Push handbrake cable up from the two locating brackets just above diff; pull cable through on RH side till inner allows cable to come out of bracket on Side of diff carrier.

Slacken long 1/2” bolt and two short bolts of diff.

Jack up under diff, on jig.

Remove all bolts.

Lower down.

BMW, if removing diff from carrier :

If removing diff without carrier, no need to mess around with handbrake cable, other than to disconnect from chassis for ease of access, the cable can then be moved about more easily, and remove the long bolt and short bolts holding the diff to the carrier.

Note: Removing the parcel shelf makes access and vision easier, you can look down and see things more clearly and even put a strap around diff to lower it with, if you wish. I actually removed the alloy shelf bar too. Carefully drill out the existing pop rivets

 

REFITTING

Replace propshaft if it has been removed.

Lift differential into position and loosely fit from short bolts. raise rear into position and fit long bolt. (Refer to CC manual for detailed instructions on centring etc.) Retorque according to CC manual, using thread locker.

Refit ARB.

Refit A Frame, with same number of washer each side at front as removed, check it’s central. Replace plastic ‘race’ washers on rear A Frame bolt, the old ones will be worn. They can be obtained from CC.

Replace drive shafts on each side, to correct torque, according to CC manual.

 

Reconnect the ARB to brackets on De Dion ear. Reconnect the speed sensor.

Reposition the brake callipers, fit bolts through spacers and torque to CC manual recommendation.

Reconnect all handbrake cable cable ties etc.

Replace bolts in propshaft, torque as per manual, threadlocker. Need to put handbrake on, 1st gear, whilst torquing prop, release and rotated 90 deg between each bolt.

Mark all refitted and torqued bolts with marker paint for visual check later.

Replace wheels.

Replace and pop rivet shelf bar; put wooden part of shelf in place whilst putting first two rivets in to make sure of location. Replace shelfs.

Note: Clean and inspect all components on removal, change nuts and bolts if in any doubt.

[Nigel B]

Peter kindly emailed me the above instructions when I fitted a Tracsport to my car. 
 

I can vouch for the fact that they work a treat! 

[ScottR400D]

Thank you Nigel! Hope you're well? 

[Nigel B]

I'm very well thanks Peter. I was out for a blat in the beautiful Scottish spring weather yesterday!

[graearea]

the thing I'm worried about are the copper pipes for the brakes.how am I supposed to remove the ears with hardlines going to the brake caliper

[Andy135]

#12, maybe use it as an opportunity to switch the hard lines for braided flexis from the T-piece to the calipers? It's something that's on my "watch list" to do.

[graearea]

maybe. it'll have to wait til after n'ring in 2 weeks then.

[ScottR400D]

It's not an issue. The callipers will lift clear of the disc without straining the copper pipes. I simply lifted them and cable tied loosely to the damper spring. 

I'd be wary of doing a track day with a non functioning LSD, especially if I didn't know what type it was. Are you sure it is (supposed to be at least) and LSD. 

[graearea]

I suspect it's a quaife. Otherwise it would be completely shot by now. 

[ScottR400D]

In that case, as I understand the Quaife, what your getting is as good as it possibly gets. 

[Tom_Arundel]

I don`t suppose you have a rear anti-roll bar fitted   If yes, is it too stiff?

[ScottR400D]

# I see where you're going Tom but spinning one wheel in the dry would indicate a too soft roll bar wouldn't it? 

I'd have thought there'd be more weight transfer with a softer ARB which would in effect lighten the weight on the inside wheel whilst increasing that on the outside? 

[Tom_Arundel]

A stiff rear bar will take weight off the inside wheel and reduce traction in tight corners 

[graearea]

yeah I think it's on it's stiffest setting. I was thinking that when I had an M3 ARB on my 130i, it'd lift the inside wheel badly to the same effect. I'll drop it down a notch or two.

[graearea]

 It's now on the softest setting from the 2nd. 

[Tom_Arundel]

you could `go the whole hog` and take the link off one side ....might prove something 

[graearea]

Might try that if it's sunny Monday and I can get a half day in at Bedford lol