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420R (S3) Radiator design issue, regular failures???


CtrMint

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#99 Of youthink there are valid reasons for the changes, ask them to tell you what they are. 

As the years go by, I've reached the conclusion that they are just not in control of things and don't have enough proper engineers to ever get there and that they're focused on next week's customer not today's or yesterday's  

I find it odd that they might not have the 'buying power' to do things properly when they seem to have the resources to constantly bring out new 'best ever' or suchlike models. 
 

 

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I must admit I had mixed feelings over the new 170.  In one hand it's great they've been able to extend the market again etc etc etc.  On the other, I still have an 18 month old car with 900 miles and still haven't seen the required revision...  I've tried to avoid be grumpy over it.     

No eye or processes monitoring their "technical debt"......

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Given the revised hose is still not the correct shape;
Next week I'm going to ring around and see what the cost is likely be to have to correct hose made.  If there's any fellow 420R owners that are interested, please let me know.  Economies of scale will certainly be a factor. 

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My April 2021 420R has a leaking radiator.  Initially found top hose too loose and horrible slime working its way down the radiator.  Checked it again today, cleaned slime and tightened up top hose a little more.  Then noticed a drop of water on floor.  Dried it and few minutes later another drop.  Close examination shows water seeping very slightly from several locations where the core is fixed into the end casing.  This is on engine side of the rad on right hand side as face the front of the car.  Have contacted dealer to get one in ready for 6000 mile service in 6 weeks time.

Colin

Also rather surprised to see oil level below bottom of dip stick.  Car has done 4000 miles since had its last oil change.

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Hi Colin.

Mine always failed between the top of the end casing and core, engine side, and nearside.  Your experience seems very similar, though I'm not sure what you mean by slime?

I'd be interest to know how thick the side wall is on the top hose.  As per the thread, I'm wondering if there's insufficient give in the hose.  If you've got the thinner walled version, it might also indicate the reduction in wall thickness isn't helping. Although you could have simply suffered from a quality issue.

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Also rather surprised to see oil level below bottom of dip stick.  Car has done 4000 miles since had its last oil change.

Hi Colin, I would say a new Duratec (not fully broken in) with the increased Caterham rev limit on the 420R that Ford never envisaged for the bottom end, can use quite a bit of oil when taken to the red line a lot.

When driven sedately on the road (keeping the revs below 4,000RPM around town and on long cruises) my R400D doesn't consume much oil, on the track when kept between 5,500 and 7,800RPM all the time it uses quite a bit, requiring topping up every track day. Caterham recommend checking the oil level frequently during track days.

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Rad1.thumb.jpg.014299141a9cf6a65875499a6181f07e.jpg

Rad2.thumb.jpg.936e105074c418eb4879933b21092328.jpg

Rad3.thumb.jpg.dca4151a42613378b6b609613265361c.jpg Rad4.thumb.jpg.74fefebe5003737411210061b57dd02e.jpg Rad5.thumb.jpg.aaa3ae797c68554d5ac98ba4fb3c7d7e.jpg

Pic 1 shows slime from leaking top hose

Pic 2 Closeup of top hose and cores

Pic 3 Bottom side of core

Pic 4 Bottom side of core (slightly clearer)

Pic 5 Cores by top hose

Bright (highlight) spots are water seepage

 

Regarding oil.  The car is dry sumped with the triangular tank.  The dip stick is the correct one as per Post #110.  I have emptied the catch tank a couple of times.  Maybe total of 3" over three empties.

Colin

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I guess you don't know how much oil was put in, in the first place? 

The reason I ask is because in 6 years I've never had more than a few drops of emulsion in the catch tank, I'm surprised you've had maybe 3" of stuff from there and wondered if it had been overfilled. 

Regarding the oil level I'd again be surprised if the dipstick was a measure. Over the years I found that the level can vary a lot depending on how long the cars been stood and I've found that the only consistent method of measuring is to stop the car after a decent run, remove the hood and nose and see where the level is in the tank, aiming for 20-30mm below the second baffle, which equates to 7 litres of oil. 

I've found that sometimes the level will drop quite a bit once the car is left to stand and cool and other times it doesn't drop at all. No idea why. 

As for the radiator, that leak could be down to inherent faults in the radiator or could have been induced by stress from the hose, I guess, which does raise the question of whether CC's 'solution' makes any difference at all, assuming that you have the new hose. 

That's  an SV too isn't it, so the slightly different layout isn't making any difference, if it is a stress issue. 

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Because it will be getting an oil change in 700-800 miles time (booked for early Nov) I have topped it up so hot it is just on the lower edge of the hot mark on the dipstick.  Level was tested by warming car up, switching off, waiting 30 seconds, then dipping the tank.  I assume that the level is with the dipstick fully screwed down.   Hopefully out on a run tomorrow so will check to see what has been lost (if any after the run).  Luckily do not need to remove the nosecone completely, just remove the two top Dzuz clips and it tilts forward nicely.

Can anyone confirm who makes the radiators for Caterham.  Several people have mentioned they through it was RADTEC.  If this is the case they are only a couple of miles from me so could pay them a visit.

When check it tomorrow I will measure the diameter of the top hose and check the thickness.

Colin

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