right hand bend gremlins...

[John Vine]

A well designed injection fuel tank will often have a 'sump' that the pump sits in.

Which is how the Duratec/Sigma pump is deployed in its OE (Ford) installation.  Not a lot of help here, though!

JV

[garybee]

"Not a lot of help here, though!"

It is part of the answer to the question about swirl pots.  Which was asked here.  

[John Vine]

Re #27:

That's true, but I thought that a reference to a pump mounted vertically in the top of the tank wasn't going to be much help to a K owner with a pump mounted horizontally in the side.

JV

[garybee]

Grumpy and unnecessary comment removed.

[John Vine]

Re #29:

Oops, I think there's been slight misunderstanding here. When I said "Not a lot of help here, though!", I meant that my comment was not a lot of help (for the reason I gave in #28).  I wasn't for one moment suggesting that your comment wasn't helpful.  My apologies if that wasn't clear.

JV

[garybee]

John, my apologies for the above misunderstanding. My patience for blatchat has been worn thin by by a handful of unpleasant individuals. I had wrongly lumped you in with them. My error entirely.

[garybee]

OP - with no fuel pressure sensor on the K-series you're obviously not going to be able to see what's happening via the ECU.  As yours is an EU3 car however it is OBD2 compatible which makes basic data logging easy and you can look for indirect effects of the cause of your misfire.  If you can make it happen whilst looking at the lambda reading that will show you if the exhaust is lean or rich when it happens.  If it's rich then you're losing spark because of an ignition fault.  If it's lean then you're losing fuel pressure.  You then need to find the cause still but you won't waste time guessing if it's an ignition or fueling fault.

[John Vine]

Re #31:

No problem at all, garybee.  I should have taken more care to avoid the ambiguity in the first place!

JV

[timb2117]

Thanks tons Gary that seems definitive I will get on to it.

John and Gary (Im trying not to sound patronizing as we are all adults - unlike some forums) comm's on forums is hard enough but the ability to see beyond the misunderstanding and rectify it is absolutely great and exactly what I would hope for from fellow 7ers, thankyou it restores my faith in forums for decent helpful and knowledgeable mates. Cheers.

[Stormer1]

Just seen your post. If you see my recent post (ECU fuse blowing...) we may have a common problem so I would be very interested in knowing if you find the issue and I will do the same back to you. As with your issue mine is right hand bends but only on a track day once I start pushing it through the corners. Other than that my 2003 1.8K series runs like a dream. Difference is mine grinds to a halt until I change the fuse then everything is great. Not good on a track day so until I find the fault my car is road use only. 

[timb2117]

gotcha yup its a process....I have;

1 Changed fuel filters, rubber hoses.

2 changed away fromt he ugly metro fuel cap but put a boat one on, not as hideous as it sounds, but I wonder if its too well sealed and preventing venting.

3 changed coil packs, leads, plugs.

4 just ordered and within 1 1/2 week will fit new caterham aero fuel cap and filler neck. New fuel pump, and replace all gaskets and seals on system.

Will let you know how I get on. mines really from 5500 revs up and my mate who knows stuff suggested old pump cannot keep fuel lines pressurized at high loads. Perhaps your ecu is shutting down as it tries to do same?

[timb2117]

Another thought... my ecu is mounted on the exhaust side flat horizontal behind the battery near to the firewall. The first thing I did with the car on purchase was to make a composite carbon fibre/ alloy/ heatwrap shield for the battery which also blocks any radiant heat from reaching the ecu.

Convected heat is still present but with exhaust just there I figured it was worth anything to protect the delicate electronics and also battery from heat. I also used silvered flexible wrap for starter and alternator and sensors on that side of engine bay.....Just dont like heat on plastics, electrics, and rubbers.... Certainly if the ecu or wiring was too hot it could load up the electrical system and cause the fuse blow?

[SM25T]

Any chance that any part of the conductive carbon fibre or alloy can contact a live terminal ... can the battery move at all under hard cornering ? Silver wrap on starter ... if a fat cable moves under cornering loads, can anything ground a live cable ?

[timb2117]

Shouldn't be - I was uber careful with routing, sealing, rubber grommets etc However I love your analytical view, and yes its usually something that I proudly "achieved" that causes the issue and I did focus most of my recent wiring checks on the rest of the loom so I will dig through all of it and double check, thankyou.

[Stormer1]

Taking my car up to a specialist garage next Wednesday to get it up on ramps so we can have a proper look/poke around. My issue does not look like a rev range or fuel issue as the car runs like a train through all the gears in a straight line and out of corners, but when loaded up on a right hand corner it doesn't even stutter and stop, the fuse just blows and car coasts to a halt. I would love to find a pinched wire, perhaps, so I can go and have some proper fun on the track. Will keep you posted and let you know what we find if anything. Cheers.

[SM25T]

Has to be a short based on that description.

[timb2117]

Think I've got it! However will take a track day to be sure.

New fuel pump, filthy inside tank cleaned and spotless now, seems to pull stronger and nudged her around 6500 rpm with no gremlins.

Interestingly the tank has a large baffle plate essentially keeping a well of fuel around the pump, the pump itself when stripped only needed a $200 over counter replacement from my local rover dude. Then careful soldering of wires as I'd rather not have to take it out again for a while!

Fingers crossed for track day blat in early Dec.

[ECR]

Fingers crossed for you ....