MarkTheGoose Posted August 20, 2020 Share Posted August 20, 2020 Caterham CSR 2005, I've removed the brake caliper (maybe unnecessary), I've removed the bottom spring/damper bolt & damper is out of the way. I've removed the bolt through the control arm & that's out the way too. The nuts are off the wishbones and I can now take out the upright.What do I do next? If I pull the upright away from the diff, it feels like the tripoid joints provide all the give. Is this rusty bit of driveshaft supposed to just come out of the diff, or is there something else I need to undo next? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted August 20, 2020 Share Posted August 20, 2020 The rusty bit should come out too. The splined shaft is the other end of it. The tripode end of the actual shaft is inside the rusty bit. Try pulling at the actual rusty bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garybee Posted August 20, 2020 Share Posted August 20, 2020 there's a snap ring on the end of the shaft, inside the diff. You don't need to access it though, it just provides some extra resistance. It will release with a sharp pull, pushing it all the way in first will help by giving you a bit of a run-up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkTheGoose Posted August 20, 2020 Author Share Posted August 20, 2020 Thanks guys... Difficult to get any sort of traction/leverage on the rusty bit! If I (push first) then pull the upright, the tripode isn't likely to pull out of the rusty bit completely then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garybee Posted August 20, 2020 Share Posted August 20, 2020 They can take a few attempts till you get the knack, the snap ring has a good grip. Don't worry, you won't separate the jointeven though it does move a long way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkTheGoose Posted August 20, 2020 Author Share Posted August 20, 2020 Thanks Gary... got to say, love the support I get on here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor Posted August 20, 2020 Share Posted August 20, 2020 Mark, well done!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkTheGoose Posted August 20, 2020 Author Share Posted August 20, 2020 It actually came out easy peasy in the end. The surprise was that there's actually nothing apart from the gaiter that keeps the outboard tripode joint together.When I had my suspension collapse, it actually nicked the gaiter and caused a very small tear, which then with centrifugal force had been spraying the grease out. The good news is that now the drive shaft is off the car, I've dismantled the outer tripode and cleaned it all and can now fit a new gaiter and repack with the GKN Tripode grease - sourced from Demon Tweaks...Yesterday, when I contacted Caterham, they confirmed that my CSR had been specified with an LSD as part of the factory build. They had no idea what it was, but guessed an ATB. Having taken the driveshaft out, I've discovered that my LSD is actually a ZF plated one, so that's good news too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor Posted August 20, 2020 Share Posted August 20, 2020 The diff is a good news!! They are good!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted August 20, 2020 Share Posted August 20, 2020 ZF Worth checking the preload as some of the ZF's were sadly fitted with preload suitable for tintops in the region of 65lb/ft and steep ramps too, the race spec ZF's versions were reset for Caterham use and ran 30 degree ramps and preload in the region of 25lb/ft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 Re #8. Yes, only the gaiter holds the shaft into the housing but, of course, when assembled it can’t come out but needs to slide in and out as the effective length changes on bumps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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