K Series Flywheel/Crankshaft locking tool

[Fridybrydy]

Good morning. I was wondering if anyone in the Brighouse West Yorkshire region had a K series 1.8 non VVC engine flywheel/crankshaft locking tool I could borrow/purchase? I need to replace the cam belt and would feel more reassured if whilst removing the crankshaft pulley, I was certain the crank shaft will not be able to move. I have the cam shaft locking tool.

Kind regards

[rj]

I simply turn the engine to the desired position. Mark everything up, then lock the flywheel with a large screwdriver whilst I undo the pulley bolt one turn or so and turn the engine back to the desired position, insert the cam locking tool and remove the pulley bolt completely. Never caused issues.

[Fridybrydy]

Thanks RJ, first cam belt for me so a little nervous. Apparently, there are no daft questions so here goes. I assume I am to access the flywheel by removing the starter motor?

[rj]

No, you can access it from the other side of the block (near the crank position sensor)

[Fridybrydy]

Thanks rj, I'll give it ago this weekend

[David Belding]

I did mine for the first time last year. I used a large screwdriver through the hole on the right side of the housing. I was working alone so held the screwdriver in place with a Mole grip and put the car in gear and jammed the brake pedal down with a piece of wood, just in case. Needed a piece of tube to extend the wrench handle. No drama and not as difficult as it sounds. 

[rj]

I did it up on my new engine Friday One man, a large screwdriver and a torque wrench. A bit ackward but doable. It helps that I have a lift in the garage, though.

[Fridybrydy]

Thanks David. The replies i am receiving to my post are giving me more confidence. As a side matter, i will replace the water pump at the same time. Would you know if I am to put the replacement water pump face o ring in dry, or apply a small amount of grease (lubricate it)?

[rj]

I always grease o-rings with Superlube which will not destroy any sort of rubber but will help the o-ring to bed properly.

[Jonathan Kay]

Vast amounts on this in the archives.

You've got the water pump: have you found the recommended type?

Similarly belt tensioner, and ditto.

And the video made by the man with the Irish voice?

Jonathan

[Jonathan Kay]

This job is precisely one step too far for my abilities and confidence. I know that others feel the same. 

As an amateur I recognise that it's possible to lock it all up with a screwdriver but I'd be more confident with the tool. (And that's consistent across lots of tasks.)

But the two most helpful steps would be:

1. A Guide, including advice on all of the bits in the preceding post
2. A visiting angel.

Jonathan

[7SW]

Hello,

When I did change the timing belt onto my 1600 K SS I built this "locking tool" with with some pieces of metal plates:

 

 

[CageyH]

The most important thing to do after changing the cam belt, before starting the engine is to manually turn the crank 720° and check that all of the timing marks line up.

[Bricol]

Only ever done mine with it in gear, handbrake on, someone leaning on the foot brake.

Until you take the belt off, nothing is going out of time, so if moves, move it back until the marks line up.

Do water pumps fail often enough to need replacing with a belt change - my 2001 needed more head gaskets than pumps (ie the gasket needed doing, but the pump was fine). 

With my Lancia integrale, you change the pump every time as it's such a t**t to get to, so get all the pain out of the way in one go, same with all idlers.

[CageyH]

I. Hangs my water pump every other belt change. They can fail over time, and are not expensive.

[SM25T]

I have had one start leaking past the shaft seal. Same on a friend's car. So now replace as a precaution while belt off.

[rj]

Not expensive?

If you want decent quality they are.