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Build help - Oil cooler lines


CtrMint

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Hi All,

Me again, another build issue, have to say my patience is running thin at the moment. *grumpy*

If you recall my woes in an earlier thread over the radiator bobbins and the R300 race style radiator/oil cooler supplied with my 420R, https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/silly-confusion-over-rad-install

Well I've managed to get to fitting the oil lines and hit more issues.

As far as I can tell I've been supplied oil lines which would be designed to fit a car with the separate oil cooler, where inlet faces vertically downwards.  My cooler inlet face horizontally towards the engine, however the cooler lines are expecting a vertical union.  As a result I have force the line through 90 degrees which requires tremendous force on the thick lines.  If I do this the line collapses near the cooler, not good.  I'm sure the hose joint won't last long either.  Couldn't photograph the result.

IMG_2260.thumb.jpg.403dea12b8423e6fd463ee7f3acbdf75.jpg

I'm no expert for sure, but surely this is wrong, and potentially dangerous if the joint fails.

Could you please suggest if I'm missing something.

Thanks all

 

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On my 2012 R400D the front dry sump connection has a 135 degree elbow that goes to the vertical connection on the right hand side of the oil cooler mounted in front of the radiator using a 90 degree elbow. The rear dry sump connection uses a 45 degree elbow into a connection in the bottom of the oil tank. The left side of the oil cooler is also a vertical connection using a 90 degree elbow that connects to the return on the top of the oil tank.

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You may have already tried this, but when we had any issues on our build, we just sent an email with photos to Derek at Caterham and his response was always helpful.  Sometimes we had just got it wrong *rolleyes* or he identified a faulty or incorrect part and sent a replacement immediately.

Either way, we got the issues sorted.  Can't recommend him enough! *thumb_up*

Roy

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I spun the hose around, and tried fitting on the cooler first.  This has allowed me to fit without the hose collapsing, but I still had to force the hose at the tank clockwise by about 45 degrees.  Not totally convinced.

I've moved on and got the other cooler oil line on, but I'm now struggling with the tank to sump line. 

 

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It is possible to rotate the fittings of crimped hoses - hold the crimp and turn the fitting.  It's a mild hose tail inside and will rotate with no leak concerns - I've never had any on systems running rather higher pressures than car engines ;-)

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Could you clarify that the two images you’ve shown are of two pipes?

It’s just that you referred to the oil cooler inlet as being the problem and that does look like the inlet side; but the second image is of the return from the other side of the cooler. Not sure why you showed us that? 

 

 

 

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Yes the images are the pipes of concern, though I have managed to get them on now, i just think it is pretty poor to stress the hose in the manner required.

To be honest I'm now trying the one which runs from the bottom of the engine to the bottom of the tank.  That one is impossible.

You simply cannot get the hose on straight to the joint at the bottom of the engine due to the engine mount.  I'm seriously getting to the point of calling it a day with this whole idea.  

I should have stuck with messing around with JDM cars.

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Thanks for that, That looks like what I'm trying to do.  Do you have an SV or S3?  Mine is an S3, and the proximity to the chassis rail seems to prevent getting the connector on straight.  A few extra mill and I might be able too but not matter how I push, pull, twist I just can't get a straight fit.

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Mine is an S3. Those AN connectors are a pain to get straight to start the thread, took me an hour to get one threaded on the oil cooler in my son's Corvette last week due to the restricted space. On my R400D, the 45 degree elbow is angled up from the horizontal at about 45 degrees to allow the pipe to clear the chassis rail and pass to the front of the engine mount. It may be easier to support the engine and remove the engine mount, giving more space to work, so you can get the thread on straight.

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Could you get a good straight on fit with the lower connector if you offer the hose to the union with the whole hose orientated rearwards? You might then be able to rotate the hose down then forward in order to thread the other end of the hose up into position before doing a full tighten up?

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So I spent all day on this.  This morning trying every combination to make this fit, but no joy.

In the end I've spent the afternoon removing the mount, I can now get the hose on, but the rubber mount is clearly in the way and I can't refit that.

I have had one response from Derek telling me to route the line between the chassis and the body work, then nothing more. 

I'm seriously now at the end of my tether with it.....   

Truly wish I'd not sunk 40K into this,,,,

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