Clutch Cable Adjustment

[Occulomency]

My 98 K Series seems to eat clutch cables, I'm on my third in five years, however since changing the last one I'm having some real problems getting the adjustment right.

When I did the roadside replacement (I always have a spare in the boot) I set the new cable up to be identical to the old one. That worked fine for a while but this recent spell of hot weather seems to have caused some new problems.

When running at motorway speeds in hot weather the clutch end adjuster nuts slowly unscrew themselves and my clutch becomes inoperative. I'm assuming it's a combination of heat and vibration but does anyone know of a fix or if I've just set the whole thing up incorrectly to start with?

Thanks.

Fraser.

[John Vine]

Are your cables breaking where the inner appears just inside the pedal box?  If so, it may be because too much outer is showing and the inner is flexing too much.  Here's what the Assembly Guide advises:

"The clutch cable is fitted with adjusters at both ends so that it can be adjusted at both the bell-housing and pedal box. Set the pedal box end so that a minimum length of outer cable protrudes past the locating bush into the pedal box then adjust at the bell-housing end until a satisfactory clutch pedal position is achieved (4 threads showing through the yellow bush is a good starting point). The clutch 'bite' point should be set according to personal preference ensuring that it is not adjusted so as to prevent the clutch from fully engaging or disengaging."

Regarding the clutch end, there should be two nuts, one acting as a locknut for the other (at 7). Are you tightening them firmly, one against the other? 

JV

 

[Occulomency]

Thanks John,

That's how I have mine set, and it is the lock nut(s) at the bell housing end where I'm having the trouble. I'll have another go at doing up the nuts and see where that leaves me.

Cheers.

Fraser.

[SM25T]

Lock together with a pair of spanners. Spot of loctite under both nuts if you are having trouble

[john milner]

A small cable tie on the thread could be an alternative to Loctite. Not as solid but perhaps a bit easier for roadside repairs.

For a loosening problem to suddenly appear could this be a symptom of a vibration issue elsewhere? For example worn bushes that can't take the heat.

To get through that many something isn't right. Correct cable, tight bend radius, lube, heavy foot, pedal too close, pedal stop needed?

[Occulomency]

I think the pedal too close scenario is quite likely, but I am at the limit of adjustment on both the seat and the pedals so there's not a lot more I can do.

I've taken the cable assembly apart and refitted it, carefully tightening all the locknuts, making sure it's all configured as per John's incredibly useful diagram and I think it's sorted. I have applied some thread lock and I will cobble together a pedal stop this weekend.

Thanks for all the advice.

Fraser.

[John Vine]

Glad to hear it's fixed.

JV

[polainm]

Ha. Interesting.

I have a Type 9 Quaife SC box with Zetec 1800 and cable operated clutch, no pedal stop. There was a recent 'crunch' noise during heavy rain/flooded road and I lost full disengagement with pedal to the floor. I could still just get gears engaged, but it was clear the clutch was dragging. Looked at all usual issues; could not find anything. Tried to adjust locknuts but wouldn't budge. Needs to be up on stands in garage job. Only option I had was to space the travel out a fraction with this ultimate spanner bodge job! (There is a foot box cover BTW).

The clutch has only done ~4,000miles and none of that on a track or hill climb. I can't determine if the clutch arm or bearing is bent/falling to bits, or this is natural wear and the clutch cable needs adjusting - preferably without a zip tied spanner.

I'll be doing the NC500 in September, so reliability is important, but I am loathed to lift engine out for clutch bearing/arm replacement until I know for certain it's this. In an Escort I'd expect the clutch plate/bearing to last around 30,000miles, hauling twice the weight.

Normal 'wear' or something else....?

[John Vine]

Prime suspect would be the clutch cable. It may have only partially snapped, relying on just a few remaining threads.

If the cable is sound throughout, I'd be suspecting CRB, damaged driven plate or broken diaphragm springs.

JV