virden Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 My 1996 X/F left the factory fitted with a 4:1 exhaust, which due to its constant blowing of the gasket for ports 2&3 has been on and off many times without a hitch, the four pipes slotting through the hole in the body skin without difficulty. This year due to my relocating the catch tank to that side I wrapped the pipes in heat proof tape and again refitted the system without a hitch, the pipes clearing the body hole by about 5mm as per usual. I have since noticed a curved groove melted into the body skin just above the chassis rail and melted aluminium on no.3 pipe, but the clearance, when observed cold, is still there. So does this mean wrapping the pipes, thus keeping them out of a cooling air stream has caused them to expand and contract length wise more than before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative paul richards Posted June 17, 2018 Area Representative Share Posted June 17, 2018 Sounds more like a cracked or dodgy engine mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 I wrapped the primaries on my '93 x/flow soon after I bought it in 1999 and noticed no differences/changes by the time I converted to Zetec in 2010 some 40,000 mile later. I'm thinking along the same lines as Paul (above) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
virden Posted June 17, 2018 Author Share Posted June 17, 2018 Thanks guys, I have checked both mounts visually and could not see anything odd, I then held and shook the rocker box vigorously resulting in the whole car shaking but the engine did not appear to move separately nor where there any clonking noises from broken bits. How else do I check the mounts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony P Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 If you have a 4-into-1, aren't 2 and 3 conjoined at the cylinder head end?Could there perhaps be a crack (around the weld near the top perhaps) hidden by the wrapping?Mysterious... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
virden Posted June 18, 2018 Author Share Posted June 18, 2018 Hi Tony,2&3 are joined and solid, no sign of leakage along the length of the pipes, and the engine appearing to be solidly locate all very odd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randybugger Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 Has the mounting surface warped on the primaries. This would also cause you to blow gaskets regularly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 How about gearbox mount ... that could cause rear of box and thus engine to droop ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted June 21, 2018 Member Share Posted June 21, 2018 I have since noticed a curved groove melted into the body skin just above the chassis rail and melted aluminium on no.3 pipe, but the clearance, when observed cold, is still there.How about measuring the manifold cold and hot?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted June 21, 2018 Share Posted June 21, 2018 I had these same symptoms on my VX and it turned out to be a broken (on a weld) LHS engine mount which put all the weight on the alternator strap and, not surprisingly, broke that too. I would put a jack under the engine and remove the LHS mount and mounting rubber underneath and have a closer look at the state of both. Also slack off the RHS mounting rubber bolts to give you room to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted June 21, 2018 Leadership Team Share Posted June 21, 2018 Likewise on my K-Series, broken weld at the engine-end of the LH engine mount. The later mounts have been improved because it's a known problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
virden Posted June 25, 2018 Author Share Posted June 25, 2018 Hi all,Apologies for late response to your suggestions, had BT broadband problems, AGAIN!.The car was up on the ramps for its MOT (passed) where we had a good look at the engine and gearbox mounts all of which are OKJonathan, I haven't worked up a methodology for measuring the difference between hot and cold which does involve burnt fingers, my welding gloves being too stiff to hold a tape, but shall think on it.A bad photo, but you can just make out the melted aluminum sticking to the primary. and the skin has a melted edge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted June 25, 2018 Member Share Posted June 25, 2018 How about a giant jig like a pair of dividers with legs that reach down to touch the reference points? Adjust it to just touch then take it somewhere cool to measure.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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