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Help diagnosing tapping noise... FINAL QUESTION THEN for Free donughts !!


mossy7

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So... I still can't find it but have worked it its located on front O/S wheel and is both related to wheel speed, ( the frequency reduces with speed) and to braking ( it stops altogether when I brake) 

its a tapping noise. And very annoying! Help.. What is it??? 

Free donughts  to anyone to correctly diagnose and solve it! 

Andy

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I'd get it up at the front and see if I can replicate the sound by spinning each wheel by hand. Then, as demonstrated by Edd China:

  1. Hands at 6 and 12 o'clock on each wheel and yank to and fro.
  2. Hands at 3 and 9 o'clock on each wheel and yank to and fro.
  3. Steer to each extreme and back.
  4. Check for play at all joints possible, he uses a pry bar.
  5. Wheels off, checking nuts and studs on the way and inspect suspension, steering and brakes.
  6. Inspect wheels and tyres for damage and witness marks, including weights as above.
  7. Inspect discs.

Jonathan

 

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Ok folks.. thanks for ideas... Process of elimination.... It's not a stone or nail in tyres as happens both on

13s and 15 inch wheel/ tyre combinations.. Ditto loose weights on wheel rims. Too much coincidence for both sets.... tis not loose wheel nuts.. They get torqued before every trip. I don't have spinning centre caps so that's out.. 

I think it must be pad related as it stops when I brake.

So. Jonathan, SM25T and Tom..... Donughts still available! 

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As JK said..Jack up, rock wheel. If more than about half a mm., remove split pin from hub nut, rotate nut clockwise by hand to eliminate rock fit new split pin,(usually 2 positions vertical and horizontal). Does it still tick? Note. front wheel bearings frequently lack sufficient grease check for dry bearings.

Could be warped disc.....mmm donuts 

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I had a click noise on mine after I changed the discs and pads.

Both sides, but for different reasons !!

  • On one side it was the split pin going through the stub axle/castallation nut - I'd left it a little too long and it was moving (rotating slightly) and making contact with the centre hub cap - easily sorted by playing around with and replacing the split pin with a slightly shorter one and being a bit more careful in splitting the pin
  •  I assumed the other side was the same reason, but it wasn't - finally came down to slight movement of the pads in the calliper (does the click occur when spinning the wheel anti clockwise on nearside wheel or clockwise on the offside wheel - if so this could be it) - sorted it by repositioning the pads and adding shims - now all bedded in and no noise.

I hope this helps

Good luck in whittling down the problem

Regards

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Hi Andy

I had exactly this problem with my 2014 Sigma which had less than 2,000mls from new. It is fitted with Girling Type 14 Spitfire/Herald front disk brakes. At slow speeds the pads on one wheel were lifting every revolution of the wheel, as the disk was not quite true.

The cure was to fit a brake pad retaining kit (spring steel plate). These are available from Rimmer Bros www.rimmerbros.co.uk . Cost me £16 including delivery. Problem cured.

 

Brian    

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Sorted... It seems the disc is warped..rather a lot. Donughts to anyone who suggested this. Collection only as the post wouldn't be good! 

I now have another problem... 2 new standard discs to go with my Mintex pads ( about £100 fitted, add £300 for an uprated master cylinder ) or a whole new updated brake kit, ( ventilated discs 4 pot callipers, updated master cylinder £1126:00 fitted  ) 

I may have to do another thread for advice on that one!!! 

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Is it really warped ... or fitted with a bit of grit between it and the hub. Disks don't generally warp. It may also be pad pick up with a bit of pad material adhered to the surface of the disc .... long hot stop then remaining stationary with foot on pedal for a few seconds. This burns the friction material on to the face of the disc ... and goes clonk every rotation thereafter. You can clean it up with garnet paper .... or a few big brake pedal presses from 70 down to 40 without locking the wheels .. . then drive a mile to cool it down and repeat ... try not to stop for a while to allow it to cool.
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Careful of upgrading the calipers and disc.   I have the four pots on mine, and the pads rattle a lot.   The wheel bearings have no slack, and all the components are new (it's a new build).  Make sure you don't jump from the frying pan into the fire. 

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It appears warped.. When you turn the disc by hand and look along the edge from front or above there is a distinct wobble.... And I can see the contact on the calliper by the hub centre on each rotation. 

Thanks for the heads up,Chris, ...I am thinking the upgrade is a bit overkill for road use as it is and don't want further problems! 

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I now have another problem... 2 new standard discs to go with my Mintex pads ( about £100 fitted, add £300 for an uprated master cylinder ) or a whole new updated brake kit, ( ventilated discs 4 pot callipers, updated master cylinder £1126:00 fitted  ) 

Jeez. New discs are £7.34 each + VAT from Moss Europe and are a doddle to fit.

Uprated master cylinder just makes the brakes feel dead as you have to push much harder and get less feedback (though some people seem to like them for some reason I can't fathom).

Standard brakes with good pads are perfectly capable of locking the front wheels with little effort, so what's the point in spending over a grand on uprated ones? Especially when you won't be getting new discs for £7.34 next time.

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