DJ. Posted November 23, 2016 Share Posted November 23, 2016 I know I'm not the first person on here to fit replacement fog and reverse lights, but I have just done this and thought I would post some pictures of how it turned out in case anyone is interested.The first thing to say, it that I didn't drill any holes in my Seven. It is a Metric chassis S3 and I used the original rubber mounts (modified) and mounting screws. The light leads had to be soldered due to lack of space inside the light mount casing.After much web searching, I found no one makes rectangular lights narrow enough to sit on the original mounting blocks. The closest I could find are 133mm slimline ones from CBS, so for £85 I invested in a pair of those.http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/led-compact-rear-fog-133mmhttp://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/led-compact-reverse-lamp-133mm I also ordered an extra rubber mounting wedge from Caterhamhttps://caterhamparts.co.uk/fittings/5075-fog-reverse-lamp-wedge-rubber.html The lights were surprisingly easy to remove as there are rivnuts in the skin and the bolts hadn't seized. So I needed to make the mounts shorter and wider. Using an extremely sharp knife, I cut two pieces off the ends of the Caterham rubber and bonded them onto the originals. I then carefully cut down the tops and bottoms of the wedges so they were the same size as the base plates, attached the plates with double sided tape and re-drilled the plates to suit the original mounting screws. I had to add all the extra rubber towards the middle of the car, because the alloy starts to curve close to the outer edge of the mounts. Here are some pictures of the finished lights. I'm particularly pleased that they don't project out as far, and the proportions match the rear light clusters better too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted November 24, 2016 Share Posted November 24, 2016 Using the SIM 34LED/3 would be a neather solution. http://www.aeb.be/upl/download/products/34%20LED-3.pdf combined with 2 chrome 90 degree accent lights http://www.pilotlights.net/universal-chrome-90-degree-accent-light-license-plate-light Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted November 24, 2016 Share Posted November 24, 2016 I used the 80mm square LED lamps for the fog and reverse. Elongating the fixing holes meant I could use the original fixings. Also fitted econoseal plugs (Polevolt) so easy to connect to the car loom (and revert if needed).Much slimmer and v bright! Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Reeves Posted November 24, 2016 Share Posted November 24, 2016 nicely done, any reason you did not remove the rear rubber as I have seen several standard ones without the blocks?Vibration, rubbing the painwork ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted November 24, 2016 Author Share Posted November 24, 2016 I kept the blocks so the lights are vertical, I felt the reversing lamp particularly would work better. Have you got a picture of your car Ian? I'd be interested to see your set up Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted November 24, 2016 Share Posted November 24, 2016 This Ian used the CBS slimline units but mounted them directly on the rear panel. Fitted screws loosely then laid a horizontal insulated cable core across the top of the screws .... so as the screws were tightened, the housing tilted until vertical. Then a small bead if black silicone applied between the base and rear panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted November 24, 2016 Author Share Posted November 24, 2016 Thanks Ian, it was one of your posts that put me onto the CBS units in the first place Your technique was a lot quicker I am sure, but I haven't had much luck with getting silicone to look very good when I've tried sealing our bath in the past. There's no way I'd try applying it to such an obvious position on my Seven Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted November 24, 2016 Share Posted November 24, 2016 Small bead dragging nozzle backwards with outlet hole face down into joint .... then immediately lightly smoothed with a wet finger along the full length of the joint ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted November 24, 2016 Author Share Posted November 24, 2016 Sounds easy, but from experience, it isn't. I always have to go back to make an adjustment......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted November 24, 2016 Share Posted November 24, 2016 Ah. That is where you are going wrong. I seal baths and showers most days, so get lots of practice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted November 24, 2016 Share Posted November 24, 2016 Nice job - they look so much better! I used the same lights on my CSR and was very happy how they turned out. Nicely bright compared with the former block units. I did not use the wedge and just affixed to the panel as I felt the resulting upwards angle better suited the high seating position in the average MummyMobile 4WD/Chelsea tractor/etc that is invariably following me these days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted November 25, 2016 Author Share Posted November 25, 2016 I like your thinking on the fog angle, and have to admit I don't do a lot of reversing on the dark. Deleting the wedges saves weight too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 LED lights are very unidirectional .... they should face horizontally for maximum usefulness. You want to be seen by a car 100m away .... not 3m away ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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