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Headlamp upgrade


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Just fitted and I'm impressed with my initial test in the garage, with new one fitted against my standard lights fitted with upgraded Philips bulbs there is a marked difference. The leds are much brighter with a whiter light. I'll try gem up the road tonight if it stays dry to see how far the light travels.

very easy to fit, I decided against setting the halo up as an indicator but would have been simple for me as my wing repeaters are on the side of my headlamp bowl.

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  • 1 month later...

Many thanks to this thread + philwalters.  Just fitted the LED headlights mentioned to my 7.  Haven't had a long drive out as weather is too rubbish, but initial reaction is that the improvement over my H4 (Osram Night Breaker) bulbs is enormous.

Pic shows just the halo 'running lights', which I've wired to work as side lights (easy option).  These are very bright by themselves and much brighter than a standard side lights.

http://www.tudberry.net/Images/DSC_1262_resize.JPG

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Can you clarify which make of LED headlights they are please.

I'm just finishing fitting the JW Speaker one's from the US after having done considerable research. So far, so good; they are a massive improvement over the bi-xenon's which I fitted a few years ago.

Once completed, I'll attempt to get some photos posted up.

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@CycleSI - thanks, think they look pretty good too!

Just to emphasise one point regarding fitting (which is also mentioned in the thread above):

It's not quite a straight swap as these LED lamps have a slight wider diameter where they rest inside/against the front bezel of the headlight enclosure.  Solution is to open up the diameter of this bezel inner ring by about 1mm (measure yourself to be sure).  Difficult to explain, but will be very obvious when you try the fit.  This work can be done with a rotating abrasive drill / dremel tool, or even a file.  Obviously some care required not to mark the headlight enclosure.

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I can't help with data, and I am always careful not to say 'twice as bright' etc, as that'll depending on your bulbs, etc.

I can't say I have noticed any heat - The bowls are only thin and then open to atmosphere. Next time I am in the garage I'll put them on for 5 mins and check the bowl. I've run them since May last year and not had any issues.

Pic of opening up the diameter to suit:

https://goo.gl/photos/Aodu173Rr5ddxTyq9

 

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would be really useful if the manufacturers offered beam information length width etc too

Such numbers mean almost nothing unless accompanied by a lux measure. Any light beam will reach to infinity, it just gets progressively dimmer as it goes. A lux (lumens per square meter) measure will help - then you can say "it will reach 300 yards before dropping below 10 lux", but nobody ever does. And even then a narrow beam will obviously reach far further than a wide one.

The only sensible measure is total lumens emitted, and you have to hope they've provided it in a sensible beam pattern.  Some of the quoted lumens figures look highly suspicious to me. A standard 55w halogen headlight produces around 1500 lumens. Cree XM-L LEDs have an absolute maximum efficiency of 158 lumens per watt, much more likely to be 100 lumens per watt. The first link above claims 3850 lumens from 30w, which is unlikely.  The second claims 1770 lumens, which is much more realistic, but barely more than a standard halogen.

I can imagine cooling being a problem.  Although LEDs produce less heat than halogens, the halogens emit the heat as infra-red which leaves the lamp housing, but LEDs generate it in the chip itself. Air flow around the headlight housing will help, but some cooling vents might be a sensible option.

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@7 wonders - there are a lot of 'daymaker' style 5 3/4 LED lamps marketed for motorbikes, similar to your link.  I did buy a set of these first, but these (and most others I looked at) had no sidelight (and no indicator option either), so I sent back and settled on the lights in first link.

@Roger Ford - very interesting points.  Seems that lumen claims are often exaggerated by marketeers. Nitecore (a respectable manufacturer of quality torches) are not above this.  So who knows what the true brightness is of the lights in first link, but think you're right and it's probably less than 3850.  Another factor in perceived brightness is the lens arrangement.  I've noticed that my LED lamps seem to have particularly sharply defined / concentrated beam patterns.  'Dip' projects a low / wide pattern and the two projector lenses that come on with 'main' give a distant, but still very well defined spot. This might add to the impression of 'brighter' compared to the more diffuse beam from halogen setup. Doesn't help with thirst for hard data though ...  

All this has reminded that I don't actually drive my 7 much at night as prime driving days are summer with those long evenings ... hope the new lights will inspire more nighttime drives.

 

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Spoke to the UK importer for the JW Speakers they offer a 8631 Evo version now with DRL dicator etc etc, they now bugger all about the uni other than the normal blurb cant offer anything by way of comparison to others on the market, no data on beam length width......... oh for a company that knows its products.......

And there £479 each......

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I have just fitted the 8631 Evo's and although I can't give you any data or beam lengths as such, what I can say is they are brilliant in terms of brightness, but more importantly the beam pattern which is what the previous bi-xenon kit lacked.

It finally feels safe driving fast at night in a Caterham and I never thought I'd say that. I was a bit apprehensive given the cost that they wouldn't be much/any better than the cheap ebay/chinese LED's but they are. Given that I've fitted them in 5 3/4 bowls and lowered brackets I am amazed how effective they are. They light up the side of the road as well as everything in front of you which was always a problem before. A lot of money - yes ! Worth it - most definitely !!!

If anybody wants to see what they're like then they are welcome to visit me or hook up at the many track days I do each year.

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  • 4 months later...

I upgraded the headlights on my R1 powered car last year, but I think they drain more juice than the bike engine generator produces. Normal use  and shortish blats don't cause a problem as the battery is usually kept on a conditioner in the garage. However, on long night runs, after a few hours the lights begin to dim and eventually the car comes to a halt as the voltage drops ( only a small bike battery ).

In the recent hot weather, battery went flat after using lights and cooling fan together for a short time in slow traffic.

Battery is 12V 12ah. Alternator nominal output is 12V 26a @ 5000rpm. Headlights are 55W, I can't find a spec for the cooling fan.

I think these LEDs will help solve the problem and improve lighting. Can anyone help confirm?

Thanks,

Clive.

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They should help a bit. Typical spec for LED headlights seems to be about 30W, so you're saving 50W overall.

Swapping tail lights to LED should save another 10W or so, and brake lights will save 40W when they're used. If you've got a full set of six indicators that's probably 90W, but of course rarely used all together.

Fan will take around 100 - 150W, I believe.

26A from the alternator is over 300W, but I don't know if that's a maximum output when the engine's at full speed.

 

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Thanks Roger.

According to that, the alternator output should be able to cope with the load, so I'll carry out a leakage test and output check before doing anything further. I'll also check the headlight bulb wattage, as it could be marginal if too high.

The loads are similar on the bike, with twin headlamps, tail and stop lights. The fan is also from the bike, so if everything is in good order the system should cope. However, on the bike, I'm not sure if both headlamps light when on dipped beam, or just on high beam which may make quiet a difference during night time driving.

Clive

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Same thoughts as Roger. LED headlights will draw less current than halogens, but you need to check your charging.

The problem coincided with the new lamps?

Small fans are typically under 10 A. Then you need to add ECU/ ignition. 

How is the alternator driven on your R1?

I'd start by measuring battery voltage:

  1. At rest and minimum during cranking.
  2. With lights and fan off at intervals through the range of engine speed you use on the road.
  3. As 2 with all lights and the fan on.

Jonathan

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