Peter G Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Gents, my little used K series VVC has developed the annoying habit of being very reluctant to start.When starting today it was difficult to get going, and needed a decent amount of loud pedal for it to catch, and if released it would stall.When warmer and under way it seems fine (I didn't go far today sadly). It sounds like a sensor problem to me.I've tried the TPS (?) reset to no avail and I will check battery and earth terminals later (I'm still working allegedly) as it was also giving signs of a flattish battery despite it recording 12.5+ volts.Any other suggestions?Off on the PMMB tomorrow and don't really want to get stranded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted September 23, 2016 Member Share Posted September 23, 2016 Lots of possible causes, as you're probably about to discover.What's the voltage across the battery: Engine off Minimum during cranking At 3,000 rpm?Then disconnect, clean, inspect and reconnect all the cables to the starter, thick and thin, everything at both battery terminals, and the engine earths.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Dying battery can give these symptoms ..... A bit of throttle starts it fast enough to increase battery voltage to enough to run ecu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangomikeromeo Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 If you want to try with a different battery give me a call Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 Let me know how you get on. Mine doing it too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john milner Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 Do a search on IACV and see if the symptoms match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter G Posted September 30, 2016 Author Share Posted September 30, 2016 Thanks all, weekend went ok, reluctantly started every time. Reckon the battery is failing, so yes please William, what you up to this weekend? Or next? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted September 30, 2016 Member Share Posted September 30, 2016 If you can give us those 3 voltage readings it will probably help point you in the right direction.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john milner Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 Did you investigate the intake air control valve? Typically starting from cold especially in cooler weather requires the accelerator to be partially depressed and will stall if the foot is removed but runs okay after a minute or two.Another one I have had is a failing starter button that gave similar symptoms before packing up completely. With this when the engine did start the tick-over was up and down, reset then stable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangomikeromeo Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 Just pottering about tomorrow. Next Saturday (8th) is booked but nothing on Sunday I believe. Although to complicate mine's now refusing to start too. Suspect #1 is crank position sender but reviewing... So may be busy Sunday 9thGive me a call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter G Posted October 1, 2016 Author Share Posted October 1, 2016 Will do Will! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 My 7 is restored to the way it always was ..... when I touch the starter button .... the engine starts instantly. Lately .... It needed a throttle press and several attempts. So a new battery was the answer. Seems the two year old Powervamp Odyssey red top wasn't so sealed after all .... signs of acid leakage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Piers300 Posted November 4, 2016 Area Representative Share Posted November 4, 2016 I have a 2004 R300 and suffered 18 months of starting problems. I initially poked the HT leads and coil and at the beginning of the problems, it would then start. However, it got worse and worse till it would just crank and not fire at all. The only way it would start was to squirt fuel into the Throttle Bodies and then it would run fine and re-start when hot. However, it would not start from cold. After spending rather a lot of money (£1000 plus) on replacing everything including the Starter motor, Battery, HT leads, rotor arm, Distributor Cap, Coil, sensors, MFR Relay module, TPS sensor, ring gear sensor, in line Fuel filter etc. etc. and having injectors and ECU's tested by SBD, it turned out to be the multipin connector under the throttle bodies that was the culprit. I now have a great spares kit !!!I gave up with the car and Sevens & Classics sorted it, which they did very effectively. When S and C got the multipin open, it was green with corrosion. A squirt of £5 contact cleaner did the trick and now it starts fine. The history is in Tech B/C under a "A Reluctant Starter". So check the basics first.Do have a look at all your connectors and check for corrosion. I tried to undo my multipin connector, but it was a bit difficult to get separated and I failed to get it apart, as it was a bit awkward to get at. However, keep at it and and check for corrosion on everything,Piers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 I unplug all connectors in the engine bay and spray GT85 or ACF50 into each .... Every year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 Have we ever identified what this connector does as it would be nice to know why it causes such a huge (and expensive) problem. I would guess it's coolant temperature sender signal to the ECU or something similar but so many guesses were made by so many people in the course of Piers's saga that I'm not very trusting of them anymore. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revilla Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 I'm guessing it must have been the injector sub-loom connector which carries the injector and ignition coil wires but also the MAP and IAT sensor connections (on a standard EU3 K, not sure how they are handled on an R300 on TBs). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 That sounds like a reliable guess Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 Have we ever identified what this connector does...Is this the 14-pin grey plug referred to in the K-series Assembly Guide thus:"42 Attach the grey 14 pin plug from the engine wiring loom to the corresponding socket of the vehicle wiring loom (attached to the RH engine bay diagonal). Secure to the RH engine bay diagonal."If so, it's shown in this wiring diagram (top left, near "Alternator"), but it's not clear to me what the various connections relate to.ETA: Wiring diagram taken from this list (item "73414 Engine Harness K-seriesR3_4_5").JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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