Clutch problem?

[abbot]

Hi all,

Went for a blat yesterday and when I returned home I slipped into reverse to park the car and there was a bad noise when i depressed the clutch; it sounded like a mechanical sraping noise. so any advise on the following would help,

1. any suggestions on specific tests or procedures to assess further what the problem is
2. Is there any visual checks that can be done with engine in place
3. if I need to change the clutch is that a straight forward engine out, new clutch, drop back in or is it a bit more tricky than that?

Thanks

[SM25T]

Clutch release bearing breaking up ?

[Graham King]

Abbot, does it only happen in reverse or now in forward gears as well, there's no difference in the clutch operation between reverse and forward gears. Does the pedal feel normal?

You can visually inspect things (to a degree) by removing the rubber boot that covers the clutch fork and the gap in the top of the bellhousing. 

If it does need replacing then replacing it is straightforward once the engine is out, the only slightly tricky bit is ensuring the plate is centrally aligned so that the shaft fits once all clamped up. You can buy tools to aid this or you can do by feel by ensuring the edge of the clutch friction plate lines up evenly with the clutch pressure plate. Sounds worse than it is tbh. 

Graham. 

[abbot]

Thanks for teh feedback,

I hadn't noticed while out driving but then I had earplugs in.

When I pulled up to stop and then select reverse to back into a parking slot I then the noise.

It wasnt the usual noise when I am a bit quick in selecting reverse but something far harsher.

I will have a poke around tonight and try to establish a bi more info 

[John Vine]

Sorry to hear of your troubles.

What model/engine/year is the car?

Assuming it's a wet-sump K, the prime suspect would be the clutch release bearing (CRB), as SM25T suggests.  It might also be a broken clutch diaphragm spring.

Over the last few weeks, have you noticed a squealing noise as you press the clutch pedal?  (This can indicate impending CRB failure.)

If it is the CRB, it's just about possible to replace it with the engine in place.  The snag is that a collapsed CRB might also cause damage to the clutch fork and the clutch diaphragm spring, in which case the engine will have to come out.

JV

[abbot]

Sorry forgot the basics, 98 x flow.

i did a visual inspection but could not really see anything except there is no rubber boot so i guess that could contribute to crap ingress and knackering something.

what a bummer, i invested in an engine hoist to do up my mini and a couple of weeks ago i lent it to a mate who has now gone on hols for 4 weeks.  Viva la France.

[abbot]

So I need to be able to change the clutch.

What is the minimum to be able to get at and replace the clutch

A quick look suggests the engine and gearbox have to come out together.  is that right or is there enough room to split the block and leave the box in place?

 

[Graham King]

Abbot, probably not a lot of use, but on a k-series it is definitely possible to remove the engine leaving the box in place, I've done it a number of times. just make sure the box is supported properly underneath as you pull the engine away. 

Graham

[John Vine]

It may just be the CRB and not the clutch, of course. But I suspect the engine and g/b need to come out together on an XF.  (It was a long time ago that I lifted such an engine...)

JV

[abbot]

Hi, all ancilliaries are now disconnected or un plugged.

anyone got a difinitive answer on if it is possible to get engine out without the gearbox on a 4 speed crossflow?

[Clousta]

 

When Elie Boone took my crossflow engine out a couple of years ago he did it with the four speed gearbox attached.  I believe he said it was easier even though initially we were only going to work on the engine.  As a precaution we changed the clutch and CRB and hence had to split the gearbox from the engine. It was relatively straightforward aligning the gearbox when we put them together again. I am sure it would have been more tricky with the gearbox still in the car.

I am sure that Elie wil be along in a minute to confirm/correct my understanding.

[abbot]

Thanks, I am beginning to think it will be easiest to get the whole thing out.

Next problem is the ever increasing list of jobs I should do while the engine is out. 

[BlackSeven]

It is perfectly possible to remove the engine and leave the gearbox in-situ on a crossflow engined car; doing it this way prevents you having to disconnect the gear lever, reverse switch, speedo cable, gearbox mount and also having to worry about the gearbox dumping all its oil as the prop shaft withdraws from the tail housing as the box is pulled forward. Getting the engine onto the garage floor is a couple of hours work assuming everything plays ball.

Rob

[abbot]

Thanks Rob

I will give it a go and if it doesn't work I will revert to plan B

 

[abbot]

After a good attempt i finally had to go for engine and box out together.  I just could not get the block far enough forward to split it.

I did manage to flood the garage with gbox oil.  How are you supposed to get the gbox mount nuts undone, what a PITA.

problem with clutch appears to be one of the springs became dislodged and was scraping the finger springs

not really looking forward to the refitting exercise.

[Jonathan Kay]

Refitting the gearbox or the whole thing?

Do you have a balance bar?

Jonathan

[abbot]

The whole thing