Waxoyl, Dinitrol, POR15 and ACF50

[Mucus72]

Hi,

I'm at the stage of prep before my kit arrives to purchase bottles/cans of grot trap, chassis tube and electrical protection "gunk".

ive read many of the numerous threads on this and I'm still undecided, and have some questions.

I was wondering what Caterham do themselves when building cars for customers?

I don't want to add weight for no significant reason ;)

My car will be track day and blat only, circa 2.5k miles per year and garaged. Plus unlikely to be on the roads with salt around. Is it sufficient to spray ACF50 a few times a year? And will this suffice on electrics, or is there something I'm missing?

And if I go down the Dinitrol route, then there is this http://www.rust.co.uk/dinitrol-classic-rust-proofing-kit/p509443 kit available. 

Thanks for your help!

[SM25T]

I suspect CC don't !

[Golf Juliet Tango]

Likewise, I think CC don't use anything, nor do they use Copaslip.

I will look up what I bought for the rebuild, At the moment I do know it is Dinitrol in two formulations but can not remember the designations.

[Golf Juliet Tango]

https://dinitrol.co.uk/Default.aspx?tabid=94

 

[griffchris]

I used Dinitrol and ACF-50, and Contralube 770 on all electrical connections, when I built mine last year, after quite a bit of research.  Similar planned usage profile to you.  Bit early to determine whether it did any good though......

 

Chris

[Mucus72]

Thanks guys,

Contralube 770 - that's what I couldn't remember!

So this, I think is the plan for all gunk:

1. Contralube 770 for all electrical connectors

2. Dinitrol 3125 in spray can format for grot traps and tubes (2 x 500 ml cans)

3. Dinitrol 4941 underbody wax in spray can format. Do I need to do this at all on a low-mileage fair weather track only car?

4.Dinitrol 445 - permanently elastic for painting under wheel arches to avoid stone chip star cracks (I had that issue with my old car)

5. Copaslip - for every bolt that isn't called out in the manual as requiring threadlock

6. Threadlock - for bolts mentioned in the assembly guide.

7. ACF50 - I still like the stuff. Worth spraying a few times a year, better thn WD40 and just as easy to use.

Thoughts?

[DJ.]

Sounds a thorough job. Dinitrol 3125 works very well but looks and feels horrible, I sprayed this around my car and it is holding up well after 5 years. I didn't like the 4941 and think I wasted money buying that.

[Mucus72]

After just selling a 2003 Caterham that had never had waxoyl/dinitrol underbody wax maybe I simply avoid that fandango. 

And for the sake of completeness of my list above I just found an article on the best option for thread lock: "Medium strength thread lock is currently 243. This is a good product on threads of around 6mm to 12mm that you don't want to come undone, but may need to be disassembled in the future."

[martyn]

I agree that the list is a bit overkill.  Sure, your car will still look brand new after 15 years, but I'd prefer to enjoy it and for it to look brand new when it is new, and not hidden under a messy layer of anti-corrosion gunk.

ACF50 down the grot traps is what I use - Jack the front of the car up, spray some in and leave it until it drips out near the rear wheel arches.

Underbody I don’t think is a big target for corrosion or stone chips anyway.  Rear wing resprays are cheap.

[Mucus72]

Martyn, thanks for your pragmatism here. The more I think about it, the more I think you are right. It's all personal choice of course. I have bought some Dinitrol 445 to apply, with a brush I guess, to the underside of all wheel arches. My opinion here is that I want to mitigate against stones flicking upwards through the arches because it's ugly, it's happened to me, and I'm a lazy Caterham owner who never replaces, would just accept as "patina". But if I didn't have to accept in the first place with a modicum of effort then that's cool  That's kind of how I roll ;)

anyone used 445 on arches to advise on its use?

[TomB]

I just brush Waxoil onto the visible chassis. A few years ago I stripped the interior and put gallons of the stuff in the grot traps. I used ACF50 to run along the seams eg between the chassis and skins in the engine bay and where it wraps around the rear basket.  I've not bother ped with the under side of the floor given they are reasonably thick ali.  There really isn't that much of a 7 so putting Waxoil or similar isn't too much of a job. 

[Jonathan Kay]

For electrical connections:

I know that Contralube and similar are used in the aircraft industry, and I'm prepared to accept the plausibility. But I've never used it. Convince me.

Thanks

Jonathan

[TomB]

I think ACF50 can also be used on wiring, Ive squarted it in bundles of spade connectors before wrapping them in insulation tape. 

[Rusty Nuts Garage]

Yes, I used ACF50 on all exposed alu and plated nots/bolts etc. Also in the engine bay.  

I used Dynax S50 for all the 'grot traps' and where the alu meets with the chassis. The Dynax comes with a long spray applicator, which enables you to reach all the awkward traps. Too early to say how good it will be, but I'm confident it will be reasonable protection.

cheers

Keith

[Mucus72]

Thanks for ongoing commentary guys. I read the marketing blurb on Contralube Jonathan and seeing as I'm a marketing mans dream I bought it, two little 25ml tubes. It cost so much im considering re-mortgaging!

Im still most interested in the Dinitrol paint for under arches. Has anyone used it?

[Luegonigel]

Big fan of POR15, it must be good given the length the "don't.....a)........b)......c)......" list. Just finished doing all the chassis tubes under the engine where the stone chips remove the powder coating.

The stuff is pretty bullet proof and particularly good at protecting the front suspension which is the most exposed area to stones.