OliverSedlacek Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 As per thread title, my rear callipers aren't releasing. This is the first time I've tried them, i.e. I've beenbleeding them. There's no residual pressure judging by the fact that cracking open the bleed nipples makes no difference. What on earth can be going on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted October 28, 2015 Member Share Posted October 28, 2015 What's their history?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Have you just changed pads ? If so .... did you release handbrake and slacken adjuster on cable , then wind pistons back in using windback tool. Before applying handbrake once all reassembled, push brake pedal hard to operate self-adjusters inside pistons. Then adjust handbrake cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 For the self-adjustment, is applying the handbrake first an important step in this process? I have quite a lot of free pedal travel as the rears take up slack. Makes me think the adjustment isn't working as it should.Sorry to hijack the thread, feel free to PM me with replies.Actually, just re-read that and it seems you're suggesting not to apply the hand-brake before operating the pedal for adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverSedlacek Posted October 28, 2015 Author Share Posted October 28, 2015 Everything is new, calipers, pads and disks.The pistons were wound fully in.I haven't connected the handbrake yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Martyn .... applying the handbrake messes the self-adjuster operation a treat. Pressing the brake pedal hard a few times forces adjuster to take up free travel. When subsequently adjusting handbrake cable, ensure handbrake levers on calipers return to bottom stops when released. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Thanks SM25T, I assumed the self-adjustment was a continuous ongoing thing as the pads wear and therefore the handbrake shouldn’t affect it too much. But I guess you mean the first adjustment after a big wind back.Oliver, the single piston slider type calliper is a fairly crude design and there will always be some residual drag on the disc. Even with everything working correctly it takes a fair bit of force to turn by hand - especially if you don’t have the wheels fitted and right after you've been pressing the brake pedal. Could this be what you're experiencing, or are they properly stuck on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Yes ..... the first adjustment. The SA then takes up pad wear thereafter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverSedlacek Posted October 28, 2015 Author Share Posted October 28, 2015 If that's normal, it's a lot of drag!!! I can't shift the LHS but I can turn the RHS with the help of a bit of leverage. I guess I will put it back on its wheels and see if I can roll the car. I want to make sure the hydraulics are behaving before trying to set up the handbrake linkage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 More on Facebook thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 Check you've aligned the lugs and slots on the pistons and pad back-plates. Otherwise the pads won't sit against the disk properly and could jam. Rotate the piston to align.Otherwise I suspect they'll free off once the rotors have turned a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 there should be no drag, are the pins on the back of the pad correctly in the piston slots ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted October 29, 2015 Member Share Posted October 29, 2015 I think it probably is just the surprisingly high friction and the reduced leverage. How close are you to getting a road wheel on so you can play with it in a more familiar configuration?But I'd probably strip and reassemble, checking the points above.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivaan Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Oliver,If you're still having problems with dragging handbrake, take a look at this threadhttp://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/those-blasted-rear-calipersCould be the same problem that I had with brand new calipers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverSedlacek Posted November 5, 2015 Author Share Posted November 5, 2015 Thanks for the link Ivaan. It starting to look like "They all do that Sir" to a greater or lesser extent. The fact that the spring washers are weaker is interesting.Mine ease of after a little while, so my current plan is to drive the car gently for a bit to get the pads and disks bedded in. I'm hoping that will sort it, but if not I guess the calipers will need to come apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted November 5, 2015 Member Share Posted November 5, 2015 What was it like when you tried to spin a road wheel rather than the disc?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverSedlacek Posted November 5, 2015 Author Share Posted November 5, 2015 The grip does ease off enough for me to push the car around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted November 5, 2015 Member Share Posted November 5, 2015 Thanks... look forward to hearing how they turn out.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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