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Bent Conrod.....????? Now with conclusion and pics...


Ian Mackenzie

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OK so this may not be the best day in the garage.....I dropped the head off to be skimmed after doing some porting to match to the inlet and exhaust manifolds...

I went to clean up the top of the block in anticipation of putting the engine back togther tomorrow afternoon. When cleaning I noticed that the No4 piston was circa 1.5mm from reaching the top of the bore, while all the others reached the top of the bore, and when measured again, No4 piston also was about 1.5mm lower at the bottom end of the stroke...

So I'll now be stripping the bottom end tomorrow, but my initial conclusion is the conrod in No4 is about 1.5mm shorter than the rest....and therefore bent....

So over to the power of the Blatchat wisdom....what are your thoughts....and if the conrod is bent does anyone have some standard 2l Duratec conrods left over after an upgrade?

Here is a pic and you can just make out the difference in the crown hights for pistons No1 and No4, No4 sitting lower.

Duratec-Pistons(Small)....jpg.6ef35d82e5975b70f0091aa5e145ab15.jpg

Cheers

Ian

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A rod would usually bend in a side load which would cockle the piston to one side, odd length rod is a very long shot as is and odd crank stroke.

I'd go for a big end bearing shell, every wet sumped engine I've taken down has at least kissed a shell or two.

 

If you do need a piston or rod I've a couple of set you can have for free, or you could always go for an upgrade to steel.

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Thanks for all the posts.....looks like 7 Wonders is on the ball.

I've just checked again in the garage and the pistons are all in a perfect line and I agree it would be unlikely for a rod to bend and not rotate a piston.

And.......yes there is a dead spot on 4 while 1 is still moving.....and I can get a clonk......I'll update you tomorrow with some pictures, just a little concerned on the condition of the crank.

Cheers

Ian

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I have bent a con-rod which dropped the piston by more than 1.5mm, so don't rule it out.  Tried to start a Lancia engine the day after the head gasket failed - which proved oil and water don't compress much.  It have a very noticeable bend in it - I think it's still hanging up in my mum's garage.

 

Bri

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Here is what I've found.......

Shells_Small.jpg.8a936cdf19871256196ce8ff1450a545.jpg

The above shows what a state the shell was in on No4, the good shell is pulled from No3 as a comparison. When I first took the cap of I had to look twice to see the shell as it looked like it had disappeared!!

BearingCap_Small.jpg.e408244e4dbddca1fa395220def265b3.jpg

The end cap looks OK and I couldn't see any sign of blueing / overheating......and now onto the crank......

BigEnd_Small.jpg.ef50de0e2dfcd8acb741fe10784cd60b.jpg

While it is marked the journal I think is OK and it is still smooth. My real concern with the crank is that the shells have been squeezed between the side of the bearing cap and the side of crank and there is more axial play (side to side) on the rod, I've just measured with a feeler gauge, the tollerance is 0.36mm according to the build manual and I'm getting just under 0.5mm so it's looking like the crank is scrap!

Just deciding on the best options and way forward....

Cheers

Ian

P.S. I did borrow the shells from No3 and put them into No4, No4 whith good bearings now reaches the top of the cylinder head with no flatspot....

 

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Yep crank looks scrap. However you could get it reground and fit oversize shells but it's probably more economical to get another crank and use standard new shells.

Swindon were selling brand new unused standard cranks early last year, give them a ring you may get a pleasant surprise!

Did you not notice any unusual engine noise or experience abnormal oil pressure?

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