Running in oil

[LawrenceR]

Does anyone have experience of this for running in a Duratec.

http://www.aaoil.co.uk/products/engine-builder/driven-mineral-breakin-oil-5w-30/

millers do a 10w40 

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60229-millers-oils-cro-10w-40-competition-running-in-oil.aspx

but the recommended oil for duratec is 5w30 

any thoughts welcome 

thanks

[Pat the Plumber]

When my eventually gets started up i will be using the Millers 10w40 running in oil.

After the running in, I will be using 5w30 as recommended by Ford. 5w40 when on track though.

[DJ.]

Personally I would always use the grade Ford recommend for the engine.

I used semi-synthetic for the first year (with a change at 1000 miles), then changed to fully synthetic.

Honda use semi-synthetic oil in their Type R engines and don't swap to fully synthetic until 20,000.

My engine doesn't use oil in road use.

Duncan

[7 wonders of the world]

 

Is this a stick new engine form CC or a new build tweek engine?

If the latter does it have a decent map?

If you have warranty you may have guidance from your engine supplier,

If not all my engine get millers or mineral oil,

Warmed up then on a quiet staght road 2nd gear and full beans from 3k to the limiter, lift and coast back to 3k then repaeat - do the at least a dozen times.

Then run using liberal mix of all speeds and loads,

DO NOT potle aound under 4k aka Miss Daisy - you do nothing other than polish the bores,

Change oil after 300 miles to full syth and use every horse in your stable 

[Titanium7]

Last upgrade I used Millers classic running in oil and gave the car a full thrashing around the Rev range but below 5k RPM and eventually achieved an impressive torque figure using the advice from this website here 

[NedK]

Interesting perspective on running in 'hard'. For my last Ducati, I was advised a somewhat similar idea: get to the top of a long drag with a warm engine, then repeatedly coast down in a high gear, with the throttle at zero. His explanation was that the rings would be 'sucked' outwards onto the cylinder walls, and wear evenly. A more moderate approach to Mototuneusa, but the same idea.

[7 wonders of the world]

Costing on zero throttle will only cool the rings and allow debris to clear after a full power blast, the rings are pushed onto the cylinder wall under combustion pressure not sucked.

Possible you misunderstood or it was translated badly if it was in the handbook? I suspect it was meant to be power up the hill hard then coast down and repeat, this would seem more logical.

[NedK]

Could be. Your description makes sense. The strong pull/engine braking feels a bit like the engine is being sucked - just my imagination though.

[LawrenceR]

 

Is this a stick new engine form CC or a new build tweek engine?  If the latter does it have a decent map?

Box fresh with the correct caterham map.  

I am trying to decide whether to run it in on rollers with break in oil or wait until after the PBC and IVA and do it a little later than ideal

 

[7 wonders of the world]

It needs to be done ASAP after the first start up, if you can get to a private road a few blasts in 2nd gear will do the trick, leaving it sat around idling or running light will not help at all.

[martyn]

Presumably after the engine has got up to temperature?  Or are you suggesting this needs to be done from cold!?

[7 wonders of the world]

Not cold, as my OP warmed up (preferably driving) first then bedded in, but dont leave it sat idling for ages

[LawrenceR]

I understand that the first 20 mins warm up should be 2-2.5k at no or low load to bed the cams in, check for leaks and check the fan kicks in. Then on to the bedding in process for the rings and bores.