Nigel R300 Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Does anyone know the part No for the rose joints and where I could get them CC are very expensive nearly £200 pounds for four thanksNigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Auton Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Stationary-M25 knows of a good supplier. I obtained some from him last year but cant find the info at the moment.Edit: Found it. YHM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Nigel ... I can help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R300 Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Thanks Jerry Ian , Jerry has sent me the contact details of Strand Bearings are these the same company you are using at the present timeA big price difference thanks for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Yes indeed. I have been buying bearings from Nigel Tovey for over 38 years ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Can I have a set? Or am I wanting radius arms? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Let me know if you do Anthony. I am soon converting to RA to get away from the rattly rod ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vertew Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 Old thread resurrection, but think relevant - found some much cheaper track-rod ends on ebay that are a direct swap in.Someone point pointed out to me that there was a little clattering coming from my rear suspension recently. This was especially noticeable over small bumps - catseyes probably the best test. I had assumed TADT, but decided to take a closer look. Jacking up the rear and whacking the bottom for a wheel with palm revealed a 'clack' (both wheels). Turned out to be the fore watts linkage track rod end - I could easily wobble the link.The caterham part is ARHT4ECR. As noted above, Caterham charge ~£45 each for these and they don't appear to be in stock (surprise). I found the correct part on ebay on sale from mcgillmotorsports for £6. Part is: "1/4" x 5/16" RIGHT Hand Ultra High Performance Rose Joint Male". Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160764614154. Loads of these in stock.Anyway, changing both sides took about 30 mins and the clattering has gone, which makes the car much quieter and place to be. Really nice little fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 You really need to consider replacing all 4 every couple of years to keep the rattles away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 When you replace them ... do check the deDion is square across the car ... as the rod end bearings are used to adjust the position of it. Measure from a chassis point, not a wing. Surprising what a difference a few mm can make. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vertew Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 I did have a good old wobble of the rear rod ends and there was no play --- but yes, I should have replaced those too. I'll add that to the todo list .................. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vertew Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 Good point on the de dion - the car recently had it's suspension geometry set up, so I was very careful to set the rod end at length as original using a vernier caliper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 On the rear ones, you may find the stud is too long for the (presumably) blind tapped hole. If so, cut the stud down with a hacksaw ... don't try to screw it in using force, or the stud may well snap. Also ... if you have had the arms powder coated, clean out the threads with a tap .... don't try screwing the rod end in. Rod ends should always just screw in by hand ... they are secured with the lock nut. Use copaslip or similar on threads to aid future removal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vertew Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 Tks again for tips. I used copaslip on the fore rods when replacing, but in fact everything came undone very easily - I was prepared for a battle and had pre-soaked with plus gas. Garage probably freed up as part of suspension setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted June 27, 2015 Member Share Posted June 27, 2015 Old thread resurrection, but think relevant...Good decision, and gives the next member a much better chance to find the answer.ThanksJonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vertew Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 That was my thinking Jonathan - lost count of how many times I've found a forum post that has saved my bacon ... cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 Special thanks for this thread revival, I have just ordered 4 of these items, shipped to Switzerland only £28 the lot. Brilliant, thanks again.Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mavic82 Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 Any feedback of the McGill parts? I recognise the high spec has a higher loading and should therefore be stronger than the ones Caterham use, and although a good finish there not quite so posh as the originals. All in all had been a bit shy of using them. Something in me said at that price.......having said I use McGill rod ends all over the rest of the car, just none that small in such a critical location. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonpa Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 Do make sure you are using the correct, shouldered, bolts throuh the eyes.I had a car that failed an MOT as the previous servicer had put bolts in with no solid shank - just normal bolts. The thread collapsed under the load and left over a mm of play in the eye..Ian - if you are selling your old watts-link stuff, I would be interested!Cheers - Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 If that question was aimed at this Ian .... it has already been sold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonpa Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 Bah! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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