Neil7W Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Sorry in advance if this is a simple question. I have a 1999 7 with an Ital live axle. Towards the end of a long run yesterday there was a noise coming from the rear passenger wheel which I put down to the hand brake not releasing properly causing the brake to bind, as has happened before. However, this morning I noticed a small pool of oil on the garage floor. Taking the wheel off, the inside of the rear wheel is covered in oil as is the rear wheel arch which is where the oil had been dripping from. Obviously the oil has been flung around as the wheel has been spinning. I say oil, I'm fairly certain it isn't brake fluid as it's very black, the brake fluid reservoir is full and I didn't notice a lack of pressure in the peddle. Taking the hub off reveals more fluid. Is this a half shaft problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaterBram Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Looks like the half shaft seal's failed. It can be a regular problem, new shaft seal from Redline and a half hour job to fix. I take it that you don't have any bearing play, as that is a bigger job ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil7W Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 Great, thanks for that. No, doesn't appear to be any bearing play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaterBram Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Simple fix. there is two different shaft sizes used over the years, if in doubt get both sizes the seals are only a couple of quid each. while changing 1 you might as well swap both. Assuming this is somethingyou have not done before. Take photo's before you disassemble each stage, (Helps when reassembling) you will need :- Shaft oil seals (Pair of) Gasket sealant Brake Fluid. Diff Oil Set of Brake Shoes 1. Jack Rear end up 2. Remove drums & brake shoes 3. Disconnect brake pipe on both sides & bag up 4. Disconnect Hand Brake 5. Place catch bole underneath. 6. Remove the four bolts holding the brake plate for the axle 7. The Axle Assemble should now withdraw (with a bit of persuasion) 8. remove the oil seal (Hook behind with a spanner and it will prise out) 9. Clean oil seal mount. 10. push oil seal into place. 11. Dry Bearing Off 12. regrease bearing 13. Smear of Sealant onto axle flange face. 14. slide shaft back into place 15. Reassemble handbrake, brake shoes and brake pipe 16. Repeat for other side 17. Refill Diff with Diff Oil 18. Bleed Brakes Edited by - CaterBram on 6 May 2013 19:58:07 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil7W Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 Thanks again for this and the step by step guide, no I haven't done it before. Quick question, I presume the seal needing replacing is on the hub end of the half shaft rather than diff end. In which case I take it that the half shaft doesn't have to be removed? Do I take it that the gasket sealant is for the outside of the seal? Sounds like a job I should be able to do, as long as I can identify the various parts. Is there a reason for changing the brake shoes, other than as I have it apart I may as well? Thanks again for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaterBram Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Yes the seal is on the hub end, hence why the half shaft assembly (Half shaft, bearing, backplate etc )needs removing as it runs through the seal. the gasket sealant goes onto the shaft flange to seal onto the brake backplate. Changing the brakeshoes is a wise move as odd's on they have been contaminated by diff oil and won't brake when you need to. !!! Make sure you clean off any diff oil from the inside of the brake drum and abrade with suitable abrasive to allow the new shoes to bed in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil7W Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 Arh, would I be right in assuming I have to pull the whole half shaft out through the old seal, replace the seal and slide the half shaft back through reconnecting to the diff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaterBram Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Yup, just don't damage the seal when putting the diff back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil7W Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 Sorry, posted my last post before reading your last comment. I think I have it. I'll order up the parts as you describe and have a go. Thanks again, much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete - W.Sussex Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Who needs a workshop manual when you've got blatchat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaterBram Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 PS just thought on you might not know how to refill the diff, remove boot floor Remove oil vent & pipe from to of diff casing. Check if you have 1 or 2 oil level plugs on rear of diff casing If 1 then remove plug, refill through vent until oil just starts to come out, refit oil plug, then add 1/2 litre if 2 plugs then remove upper plug, refill through vent until oil just starts to come out then refit oil plug. Refit oil vent pipe Refit boot floor. Edited by - CaterBram on 6 May 2013 21:45:58 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil7W Posted May 7, 2013 Author Share Posted May 7, 2013 You're right, I hadn't thought on about refilling the diff, great advise, can't see a workshop manual getting close. I'll get the parts ordered today and have a go at the weekend. All in half an hour, I think I'll put a day aside! Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaterBram Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 I got RED LINE Synthetic Manual Transmission 90 MT90 75W-90 GL4 -1 US Quart (0.946 litre) from Opie Oils from my Diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil7W Posted May 16, 2013 Author Share Posted May 16, 2013 Again I apologise for having to have this spelt out. I have followed CaterBram's step by step guide up to and including point 6. However, the axle doesn't want to budge. Is it just splines on the end of the axle that slot tight into the diff? i.e. I'm just trying to break a tight fit and it should pop out? Just want to check I'm not missing something obvious before I ratchet up the force and break something! Any advise on how best to apply the force? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eugene Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 Yep, just 'stiction' on the splines, and the bearing probably. Some do 'glue' the bearing in place as they can 'slip' so you may have that to overcome as well. Just need a bit of 'force'... 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil7W Posted May 16, 2013 Author Share Posted May 16, 2013 Force it is then. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaterBram Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 Have you managed to split the break plate off the axle flange. If too much sealant has been used it may need a good lever from the rear. Just make sure you don't bend the brake plate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil7W Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 Yes, no problem there. The difficulty is directing the force from behind to extract the axle out. I have tried to reattach the outer brake hub backwards which gives a good hand hold but very little opportunity to get a good wack to try and break it free. Really need a hub puller type tool to be able to wind on the pressure gradually. I work away in the week and away this weekend but home tonight, so I'll have another go tonight. Thanks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 Remembering back to the 70s ... wasn't a slide hammer the tool of choice ? A flange that fitted to the wheel studs and a long handle with a heavy sliding collar on it that you slid outwards to apply an even and central shock force to the hub/shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil7W Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 Know what you mean. To some degree I have that by inverting the outer hub, resiting on the wheel studs and loosely putting the wheel nuts on acting as a stopper and pulling the outer hub forwards, stopping on the wheel nuts giving the shock. I'll be more forceful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil7W Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 When brut force is required call in the teenagers! Off in two minutes. However, the bearing is obviously knackered, by the looks this requires the hub to be removed, so wheel bearings will have to be ordered and the job finished next weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 While you change the bearing, shim them on the axle, if you need a manual i can send a pdf file if you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil7W Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 If you have one, thanks, just been looking online. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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