Area Representative nickhi Posted March 29, 2013 Area Representative Share Posted March 29, 2013 I'm a Couple of weeks into my build and I needed a LHS upright from CC which I now have. However, it seems far more problematic to fit than the RHS upright was (which I found very straightforward) and seems different (with a sample of two it's difficult to know if either if any is wrong). Firstly I couldn't get the top wishbone ball joint done up. It was ok using the plain nut but when using the nyloc nut the bolt just seemed to rotate with it. I found there was a hex socket in the bottom of the bolt so tightened this and was then able to do the nyloc up. Should I loosen the hex socket again or is it ok to leave as is. Secondly I just don't seem to be able to get the nyloc nut on the Track Rod End tightened. Again the bolt just seems to rotate with the nut, but there doesn't appear to be a hex socket to apply the same trick. I now can't seem to loosen it either for the same reason. How do I solve? Finally (sorry for all the numpty questions) the hub rotates a lot more freely than the RHS (which rotates but I'm not able to spin it and let it run freely like the LHS). Also the hub seems to have a small amount of lateral movement about 1-2 mm (basically I can move it in and out by hand a little). The RHS doesn't exhibit this. Is this normal? Thanks nickhi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 The hex socket in the taper pin is there to allow you to hold it while you do the nyloc nut up. The alternative is to use ratchet straps to squeeze the wishbones together or stand on the top one. Oddly enough, a smear of grease on the tapered pin helps it to lock in the taper. On the track rod end stand on top of the ball jointt while turning the nut. Assuming car is safe ... or put something under the steering arm while you hit the top of the ball joint with a soft mallet and then turn the nut. Persevere ! edit ... ref play in hub ..... put a wheel on and tighten nuts. Try rocking it with your hands at 12 and 6 o'clock. There should be a tiny amount of play, and the wheel should spin freely. If it needs adjusting, remove the wheel, remove the split pin in the hub nut and adjust the nut as required. Note there are two holes in the stub axle for the split pin to give you the best chance of getting it right. Refit split pin and try again withthe wheel fitted. Edited by - Stationary M25 Traveller on 29 Mar 2013 16:50:56 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative nickhi Posted March 29, 2013 Author Area Representative Share Posted March 29, 2013 Great, many thanks for the info and advice. It's my first build and with no point of reference it's tricky to know whats right or wrong and/or the best way to do things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 It's what we are all here for. Where are you based ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil66 Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 Another tip with new nylocs is to make the joint up with a normal nut first til the taper is tight then take the normal nut off and replace it with a nyloc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 With taper joints it's often much easier to use a non nylock not to tighten the joint, then when the tapers have locked together, remove the plain nut and fit the nylock. Touche Edited by - ECR on 29 Mar 2013 19:06:16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative nickhi Posted March 29, 2013 Author Area Representative Share Posted March 29, 2013 Stationary M25 Traveller - I'm based in Somerset. Again thanks for the advice, Blatchat is a real gem of information and reading the threads you quickly realise that there is a huge amount of knowledge and experience out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBKBABABTIM Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 I'm at this stage myself having just put the plain nut on the on the top wishbone joint but how do I know when the taper is fully engaged. The plain not is on pretty tight but don't want to put the nyloc on if its not fully engaged Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 Ref the track rod end... I fitted my uprights last week and had exactly the same fault when fitting one of the track rod ends. Nyloc nut did up but would not torque up, turn out the threads had stripped on the rod end. Had to carefully cut the nut off and return Half the nut and faulty rod end to factory. They kindly replaced it FOC? possible faulty batch!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 The tapered joints are a little bit of a puzzle when you first put them on... But wait until you have to undo them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBKBABABTIM Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 Plenty of old threads about splitting them and taking them off but nothing about when/how you know they are in place properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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