Which Multi-meter....?

[Myles]

...but I found a manual easily elsewhere here

 

Looks as if it does measure DC current through the clamp. Yay!

[Jonathan Kay]

... this the right manual?

 

Jonathan

[Jonathan Kay]

Snap!

 

Jonathan

[TBKBABABTIM]

Probably overkill for what you want but I have one of these for sale, brand new, came as part of a package and I dont need it, bargain price if you want something like this and you can also use the charger/battery with other Milwaukee tools

 

here

 

£45 without battery or charger or £85 with 1 li-ion battery and charger

 

Edited by - TBKBABABTIM on 15 Feb 2013 18:47:11

[glasgow]

Errmmm, this thread is getting too technical for me.... I bough this one and appears to be a good basic one:

 

- Data Hold function,

- Auto off

- Low battery indicator

- Mechanical blocking system for terminal socket to prevent mistake operation (helpful for electercity nympty like me)

- Carry case

- Support frame can rotate and hang

- Separate socket mAmp

- Continuity buzzer

- Thermometer,

- Backlit LCD and function switch indicator lamp

- Looks and feel a well built unit

 

 

 

[Roger Ford]

Top tip : don't leave it on the milliamps range and then try to check the voltage of something (the mains, in my case). Tends to cause interesting visual and audio effects with a cessation of normal functionality. Fortunately since I did this with a meter that only cost 3 quid to start with, buying a new one wasn't a big hardship. I would trust £200 Flukes are protected against this sort of thing, but probably not a good idea anyway.

[weeman]

I don't know how it compares to others but I've had a Fluke multimeter for 32 years (work issue on the day I started my apprenticeship). Very intuitive to use, extremely robust and unerringly accurate. One of my most treasured tools.

[Jonathan Kay]

Quoting weeman: 

... I've had a Fluke multimeter... unerringly accurate.

How do you know it's accurate?

 

Jonathan

[weeman]

Because I've had it re-calibrated three times in it's history and have been told (after the fact) that the recalibration was unnecessary.

[weeman]

the reasons for recalibration were all 'post' accidents. Dropped from scaffolding once, dropped into water once, over heated on a car manifold once. It's never been struck by lightning though.

[Jonathan Kay]

Thanks.

 

Years ago we used to use classical electromechanical meters. I've still got a pseudoAVOmeter on my shelves. Now I use a cheap (<£20) digital multimeter: I've often wondered how accurate it is.

 

Jonathan

[LazerBrain]

I used to work in HP's electronic test equipment calibration and repair centre in the 90's. At the time I had a Maplins branded DVM (bought several years earlier when I was at school) which I compared against the Datron calibrator used for calibrating the decent HP rack mounted meters (6 1/2 digits.) I was impressed that it matched the accuracy and repeatability of the handheld Fluke meters which cost a fair bit more than the ~£35 I paid in 1986ish.

 

I used to check it on an annual basis and it didn't change. It was a great little meter, up until the point when I ran over it on my driveway and squished the rotary selector switch.