Willie. Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Hi, I have recently bought a 7 which the previous owner had done some trick electrical work to. Part of this is buttons on the (quick release) steering wheel. In order to permit the wheel to be removed, there is an 8pin connector under the dash which you unscrew a locking nut, and pull out. It's a pretty cool setup. It's the 8pin version of this here Unfortunately, it's quite light and flimsy and struggles to maintain contact, so I would like to replace it with something more robust and of higher quality. I know the square root of nothing when it comes to electrial stuff, so hoping someone can help. Its only to run tiny telephone/keyboard wires, so I don't need a massive heavy duty item, but I do need something that can take a fair bit of plugging/unplugging and maintain contact. I've been looking at the "Military Spec" circular connectors on RS Online, and think this may do the job: here Would anyone who knows about these kind of things be able to suggest if this would be ok, or if there is anywhere I could find something more suitable? Thanks for any info - I'm out of my depth with this one! Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian B Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 I'd suggest NeutriCON here, or if your soldering is good then the smaller nanoCON here (12-pin so a few spares!) Alternatively (if you're not using all 8 pins as they are max 7-pin) would be a 'standard' XLR here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative bluenose Posted January 29, 2013 Area Representative Share Posted January 29, 2013 Lemo connectors are really good quality but you'll need deep pockets. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burwell7man Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Agree with Nick on Lemo , but also Souriau, Binder and the latest Fischer are knocking onthe door of Lemo. It's always tricky, but the not sure if you need in-line, or bulkhead receptacle? The anchoring of the wires/cable also plyays a big part of the reliability of the joint when making and breaking. Try searching both RS, CPC and Farnell online to use their searching facilities. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eugene Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 I'm intrigued.... What do the buttons do???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxdog Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Have spent some time working on a few race cars with a mixture of Lemo, Autosport (mil spec) and deutsch (mil spec). The Autosport and std deutsch last for ever where as smaller Lemo especially into bulkheads seem to wear quickly around the keying eventually allowing for mis insertion, this is generaly helped along by connecting blind. I've been toying with the idea of adding horn and main beam and indicators to my s/wheel. Just can't make up my mind if it's worth it, what set up do you have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willie. Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 Thanks for the info. I struggle to understand catalogues like RS, as I'm not familiar with all the technical terms, so have no idea what I'm really looking at. Been struggling to work out what's what, and how it connects (Don't want something that's awkward to attach/detach). Good to have a few names to look up, as no point in me re-wiring it with another plug that'll be every bit as bad. Currently I need to jiggle it a bit as sometimes it fails to connect a pin or two. Some of those look neat, so I'll have a dig through them all later and see if I can find one that looks the job. I want a socket one to fit through an existing hole in a plate, ideally with a nut to lock it in place. Then a plug on the wire from the wheel. I can take no credit for the install as it was the previous owner who did it all. It's a cool setup with 4 push buttons on the wheel (LH/RH indicator, main and horn) controlled by a Siemens Logo unit. With lights off, main is flash, lights on it's dip/main. Indicators push on/push off, or auto off after 30seconds. Currently all 4 buttons are to the bottom portion of the wheel, and I struggle to reach them without moving my hands as I've small fingers. At night it's tricky to find main beam in a hurry, and I tend to fire on the indicator. I intend to re-make it to have the indicators above the centre "arms" of the wheel, with the main and horn below. That means it should be much easier to reach the buttons and with only 1 in each quadrant, it should be easiest to find the correct one. Hoping to re-locate them and fit the new plug at the same time, hence I've been looking it up and getting no where. Now I've a few names to chase, I'll see if I can work out what I need and get it ordered. Having only ever had toggles on the standard Caterham setup, I do like the push buttons, but they do need to be in the right place to be an advantage over the toggles, as if you need to take your hand off the wheel, it defeats the purpose. I had considered adding another button for my Autocom/Kenwood push to talk, but I think it best to leave it to the 4 buttons to make it quicker to find everything at night. If you're an electronics wizz, I'd suggest using dimly illuminated push buttons to make it easier at night. You get used to where they are to a certain extent, but if you've the wheel turned any, it can be tricky to find them. Willie p.s. This is based on my experience which has so far been about 600miles use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willie. Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 Oh, and meant to say, what I'd really like, is a connector that "locks" or attaches in a similar fashion to airline (As in air compressor type) connectors. You know the type with a knurled outside "skin" on the socket that you pull back to release the inside male? Something like that I reckon would be ideal, just push in and then pull to remove. Can't really tell how some of the ones online work, but some look a bit awkward for frequent use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxdog Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Willie, you'd be looking for the lemo style then as the Deutsch style lock by bayonet action. To aid with inserting them under the dash, try and get a 90 deg connector this makes aligning the keying blind a lot easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burwell7man Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Motorsport connectors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willie. Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 Order is in. Slightly more earnest than planned. On the way home from work, the right hand indicator stopped working (Connector fault). No big deal, I've no doors so can hand signal easily to get me home. Waiting on the main road to turn right, lights on, hand out, foot on brake so brake lights on, but no right indicator...and someone coming from behind just clean didn't see me. I could tell from the approach speed they hadn't seen me, so got ready, they started aiming for the kerb so I nailed it up the road and they managed to get straightened up ok. Fair put the jitters up me as, ok, they should've seen a stopped car, but they could be excused as I'd no indicator going. Decided to get it ordered tonight and not drive again until working 100%. It seems Farnell, RS and all those type of big wigs, you can't pay by Maestro card...and I've never had a credit card. That put me in a bit of a pickle, but I managed to find the Neutrik connectors on a smaller site that does PayPal, and I fancy the look of the MiniCon that Ian linked to. They do the push/pull connection, seem pretty robust from what I can tell and what swung me mostly was I could find lots of info on them to tell me how they go together and so on. Big help for a numpty like me. I'll see how I get on in a day or two and report back with a few photos too hopefully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Willie if you ever need anything from RS just ask I have an A/c with a DPC so delivery is free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willie. Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 Thanks for the offer JJ. I've the connector bits ordered, but may be after replacement switches at some stage (If I can't get the solder off these ones clean), so may make use of your account then - thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oily Mick Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 And if you haven't got one already, fit a high level brake light to help the numptys see you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willie. Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 Yeh, going to. Have a different cage to fit (Double D Hooped Roadsport Cage), so I'll be fitting the brake light to it. Does anyone have photos of body coloured roadsport cages? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian B Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 Had a fondle of a NeutriCON on the Neutrik stand at a trade show today; I'd guess it would be fine. You can offer up the plug and rotate it until it keys into the correct position. The pull-sleeve release seemed to work well. BTW They don't do a right angled version. It's a long established model tyhat is used in Industry and the Neutrik guy thought it would be fine in the application described Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willie. Posted January 30, 2013 Author Share Posted January 30, 2013 Thanks very much Ian Reassuring to hear. I'm hoping to get it tomorrow all being well, so planning to get stuck in over the weekend. Sounds like it works exactly the way I'd like, so an extra benefit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willie. Posted February 5, 2013 Author Share Posted February 5, 2013 We're operational. Just for anyone else considering it, bit of a write up as I'm that relieved to get it done. I'm terrified of all things electrical, so this was no mean feat for me. I bought the MSCM12 and MRF12 MiniCON connectors by Neutrik (here) as reccommended by Ian. This is a male plug and female socket. First thing I noticed was that the connectors are so tiny, that soldering does need to be neat otherwise pins wouldn't go in, or would touch and short. Also, as the coiled wire from the steering wheel is a keyboard cable, the individual wires are tiny. Once soldered to the solid pin, they flex just after the joint and are very easy to break, especially if you've to shove them around to get all the pins pushed into the black pin block. I used 1.5mm dia heatshrink to insulate and support the wires. This is bang on the correct size. Any bigger and you couldn't fit the connector sleeve which slides over the lot on the plug. The socket's incoming wires were big boys, so I did the same with the socket up to the wire's own plastic sleeve, as any increase on outside diameter would've meant I couldn't put the pins in beside each other. Heatshrink or electrical tap at the end to tidy the job. Previous owner had fitted the previous socket to the old speedo reset cable bracket, and this worked again. So I've now got a snazzy new 12pin feed to my steering wheel and getting all kinds of stupid ideas. I want to relocate the buttons anyway, so may have a go at doing something fancy using another steering wheel and coiled wire/plug so I can still use the car and work on an alternative setup. Some photos here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian B Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Nice neat job Willie BTW, did we meet on the JJ09 NI se7ens.net tour in 2009?? (edited as misread the post 😳) Edited by - Ian B on 6 Feb 2013 00:42:50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lavena Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Very neat! Any chance of a photo of the steering wheel - really interested in seeing what that looks like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Golf Juliet Tango Posted February 6, 2013 Area Representative Share Posted February 6, 2013 Neutik is a good choice. They are well made (my experience of other Neutrik products). It all looks very neat and carefully done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willie. Posted February 6, 2013 Author Share Posted February 6, 2013 Ian; I don't think we were introduced, but I may have been speaking to you briefly at Hilton Templepatrick one of the days. I was passengering with a mate as my own car was in bits. Are you coming over for the tour in May? Lavena, just took a photo for you, so have a look at the album here Thanks for the compliments...if you'd been looking over my shoulder you mightn't have been so impressed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian B Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Willie, I think you may have passengered with me at one point (yellow SV)? Sadly I've had to drop out of the May tour, but give my regards to JJ and the rest of the NI boys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willie. Posted February 6, 2013 Author Share Posted February 6, 2013 Not me I'm afraid Ian, I'm a terrible passenger and only was in with a mate because he'd sat with me to the Stelvio & back. It wasn't Mark or Gareth Lyons, JJ's son's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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