Jacking points - for the regular engine removers

[anthonym]

why do you all jack the car up to take the engine out? Sounds rather precarious and you can't move the car once the process starts.

 

edit: I had the engine/gearbox out three times in ten days in August.

 

 

 

 

Edited by - anthonym on 3 Nov 2012 10:42:54

[Grandmaster Flatcap]

So what about jacking / axle stands at the rear? Do we have a consensus of how / where?

 

[Jonathan Kay]

Quoting Nigel Mercer: 

So what about jacking / axle stands at the rear? Do we have a consensus of how / where?

Sources:

1 Your own manual

2 Club FAQs

3 Alcester Racing 7s

 

Jonathan

[RS2000]

photos 9 and 10 in my set above shows the GTKY7 rear axle stand positions, and jacking point was the centre bit

[elie boone]

Why don't u modify 2 axle stands ? weld a plate to it so you can bolt it to the hub, and fit wheels underneath so you can still move it.

 

You can position it as high as the axle stand permits and still be able to move the engine less chassis around

[charlie_pank]

If the crane is on wheels, why do you need to be able to roll the chassis during engine removal/replacement?

[Myles]

why do you all jack the car up to take the engine out

 

Certainly makes it easier if you are taking the engine and gearbox out as one. Makes it easier on a k-series (IME) even if you are splitting the two. OK, you could remove all of the bolts and then lower the car to the ground, but why bother.

 

The towing-eye is all very well - but I suspect Charles has a similar-era race-chassis to mine - and the chassis does twist 'alarmingly' before both wheels will raise from the ground.

 

I think I generally have used the cruciform and then dropped the wheels onto ramps. It can be quite hard to get the car high enough to get the ramps under this way - but once on, they do give the car a much more reassuring stability than with a set of four axle-stands - particularly if you *are* trying to separate the engine from a recalcitrant gearbox!