Titanium7 Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 Having been part of the silicone hose bulk buy I was pleased how simple the hose change was! (K Series) My frustration has been that I believe I have an air lock that just will not go away. Temp rises up to well above normal without the fan kicking in. Bottom hose is reluctant to get hot. Have tried all the ways posted previously on Blatchat having emptied and re-filled about 10 times. Already have the Heater 'T' piece in the system. I have just read that it may be possible to get rid of the air lock by using a Pela vacuum pump and creating a bit of vacuum pressure in the system. Has anybody tried this and been successful in removing an airlock? Failing that I think I might start again using this process here. Has anybody used this method on a K Series with any success? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elan_fan Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 Ok easy to say I know but the amalgamated blatchat method of bleeding does work. However if you want to try the vacuum way that will work too I reckon. Either way I live in Telford and i'll give you a hand with both methods. Give us a shout if you want. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonpa Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 I've always found that lifting the nose as high as you can and running the engine whilst filling helps shift the airlock. I keep squeezing the top and bottom hoses at the same time, with the rad cap off, until they get hot. I can see how the pela will help, as you remove most of the air before putting the coolant in, so there is hardly anything left to cause the lock. All a bit fiddly though. As an aside, the Pela is a great tool for oil changes, I use one and almost never bother with a sump plug now. Great for gearboxes too! HTH - Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadsport06 Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 I've changed the coolant a few times on mine, I have a bleed tee here and it certainly makes a difference as it moves the highest point the bleed tee which can then be filled. Good massaging of the hoses and a bleed tee seem to do the trick for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 Is the rad hot? All over? Bottom hose hot? Have you checked the fan switch? Cooling system may be fine, just a beggered switch? Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titanium7 Posted May 6, 2012 Author Share Posted May 6, 2012 I hate being beaten so back into the garage again. Checked the fan switch Wipped out the the theromstat and tested Drilled a couple of 1.5mm holes through the stat flange. Filled again from the top hose then lifted the front of the car and squeezed, yanked and swore a lot and then repeated squeezing, yanking and swearing and finally success. Coolant straight through the radiator and fan switch kicking in and out as necessary. Just pigged off ☹️ that I missed such a glorious day and have no skin on the knuckles left. Thanks for all the replies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivaan Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 Martyn, I fitted the Freelander Grey Pressure Relief Remote Thermostat to my old car. It prevents cold shock to the block when the thermostat opens, but has the added advantage of no iar lock issues. Keeps a more even water temperature, even in cold weather. Do a search on PRRT. There are two versions, the cream version is set at too high a temperature ( 88' ? ). The kit was around £90 from Landrover. Clive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 Much cheaper from Rimmer Brothers. 82 degree grey stat is required for a K. here You will need a 32mm t-adaptor, and some hose to plumb it all in, but you can do it for under £60. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 Must remember to resubmit the article I wrote for LF on a very minor rework of the standard K cooling circuit which eliminates the need to bleed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elan_fan Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 You can't leave us hanging like that..tell us more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 What would you like to know? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Rather than teeing the expansion tank in to the bottom hose (well, between bottom and J), tee it in to the bypass hose I think? Apparently it works quite well. I went PRRT, it self bleeds as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Correct. Remove the shunt hose from the head tank to the submarine hose and block the submarine stub off. Fit a 5/8" tee to the bypass hose in place of the straight connector at the back of the engine (inlet side) and connect to the base of the header tank with a new length of 5/8" heater hose which runs under the inlet manifold/throttle bodies. I have just fired off a tech article for LF covering the mods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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