Drivetrain Shunt - JW Fireblade

[blade_runner]

AdC, get the car up on axle stands, get someone to lay underneath the rear of the car and grasp the prop shaft at the rear to stop it from turning, lay under the car in the mid position yourself i.e. under the small prob grasp it and twist it in either direction till it stops, u should hear a clunk from the reverser box, put the car in gear and repeat, now u should have a clunk at the reverser and the gearbox, this will be the noise of the Dog engagement.

lay under the rear of the car with car in neutral and rock prop shaft back and forth, then u can see how much 'clunk' or backlash u have in the CW&P.

I'd imagine you have far more movement in the reverser box and gearbox dogs.

[AdC]

Thanks for the detailed reply Blade_Runner. I'll do that this weekend. I suspect you're right - I spoke with JW today who, like you, indicated there are actually a lot of areas for tolerance stack up / backlash - gearbox, props, reverser and the CWP. He suggested it might well be a case of TADT, but will look at it next month when it's in for an MOT.

 

Thanks again

[AdC]

Just to close the thread if someone searches for the topic in the future, James Whiting had a look at it and explained that it was, as a few of you have suggested, simply a characteristic of the dog box and that I need to adapt my driving style to cope, essentially caning it more of the time 😬

Thanks all for the help again

 

Edited by - AdC on 16 Apr 2012 11:50:58

[charlie_pank]

Awesome, the response is that you need to give it more beans :) :) :)

[Violet Elizabeth]

"But the nice man who built it SAID I should be doing this, officer" :)

 

If you do have the prop out at any time, Bailey Morris (or similar) can convert it to a Torque Resilient Tube type, which should take a bit of the sting out.

[MikeMolloy]

Nova do a replacement cog with 2 degrees between the dogs rather than the standard 4 degrees.

Helps a bit with the "clang".

[blade_runner]

Worth knowing, Thanks Fred