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Carbon Fibre Panels


RHETT LAND

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I've ordered some CF panels for my 7 (sides & rear). I've see a picture in Lowflying of an all CF panelled 7. I would really like to get in touch with someone who has a CF panelled car to understand how the sides and rear attach to the car and if there are any important 'litle' bits that I should be aware of. Maybe just some photo's would help. If anyone can help me contact the right person it will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Rhett
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As well as Norman's car, do a search on Blackbird in Techtalk and look for some posts from Julian Thompson around mid/late 2008.

 

He bought my first Blackbird from me and despite promising me he was just going to drive it, two months later he's busy stripping it and transforming it to be the lightest Caterham 7 out there!

 

His target was 350kg which he just missed out on at around 360kg and this was a wet weight I believe (lubricants and fuel included). All the body panels inc floors were made from carbonfibre and he made a superb job

 

Nick

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Rob, I'm interested in how you fitted the panel to the chassis (bonded/riveted) and whether the CF panel was curved (top and/or bottom)to go around the chassis or if it was flat. Finally whether there were any extra pieces used to fit the panel to the chassis. I'm trying to soak up as much info as I can at the moment. Thanks Rhett (and thanks to everyone else for the other suggestions, I will follow them up in due course)

 

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Not many have done the car all in carbon. When I started my project and rebuild based on a 2010 Race chassis I decided to use as much carbon as possible based on certain criteria. In process I decided to skip the outside panels and floor. -All others are carbon. Carbon has the strength but if accident happens you normaly need to replace panels. Working with carbon requires proper tools and precautions and will not be delivered and mounted as the original alu panels. This will of course be different depending who is doing the manufacuring. I have dealt with most of them,- Mog, CarbonBit's, 666, Seven Speed, depending on parts availible, finish,mould and delivery. When I ordered my inside panels, I sendt the alu to 666 as templates for the carbons. These was returned but I think Nick made templates based on these. panels are not predrilled so you will need original panels as template for exisiting holes. This is extremely accurate. Curving is limited. Mounting must be done by riveting.

Good luck!

(If you like, I will be happy sharing my photo album.)

 

Egil

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Hi Rhett,

 

The MOG rear panel is of good quality. It also has a kevlar board set into the main span accross the rear for added fuel tank protection. Both the top and the bottom of the panel has rolled edges. When it came to mounting the panel I used a mixture of bonding and riveting. When you look into the rear wheel arch of your car you will see where the back panel rolls around the diagonal (near vertical) chassis member behind the axle. Just like the original ali panel, I riveted the panel on here and a few along the top chassis (boot) rail. This was the only place I used rivets. The panel is much stiffer than ali and holds its shape so you don't need as many rivets. The rest I used some very small dobs of sikaflex. Probably 4 of 5 along the bottom rail. Once riveted in it ain't moving so you do really only need very small (5pence piece sized) dobs.

 

If you want to blatmail me I can send you some photos

 

Cheers

Rob

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Hi Rhett,

 

I got your mail. I've a few pictures of the fitting if you're interested.

 

There was one part that was particularly tricky and that was cutting the hole for the fuel filler pipe. It may be different with a standard filler cap but if you have one of the new aero design it's a bit more work. The aero filler is designed to be fitted to an ali panel of approx 1.5mm thick. With the Kevlar protection panel bonded on the rear of the panel it's now a few more mils thick and the filler cap front plate and filler tube won't reach to seal. As I'm sure you know, Kevlar is as tough as old boots so thinning that area down to about 1.5mm isn't easy. The only way I found to do it was to use a ball ended highspeed carbide cutter mounted in a fast drill. Be carefully though you only want to thin it down to the carbon behind.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

 

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Thanks Rob, part of the changes to the rear panel are to remove everything from the panel, with the exception of the number plate. My Fuel Filler Cap is under the Boot Cover - straight pipe with Cap on top. I have no reversing lights and I've fitted Land Rover style rear lights (on wings), a pair being used as Fog Lights. Spare Wheel has also been removed. I didn't do this to save cutting CF, but my plans will certainly help in that respect. Rhett
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