Griff Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 Can anybody tell me the sequence for removing head bolts on a xflow? Likewise for the rocker shaft? Got all the other info but lack this. Also, I have read in the archives that a 74 deg thermostat is recommended. Mine has an 88 deg stat 😳 and the engine is running noticably hotter since fitting the Megajolt. I'm using what I am told is a "safe" map so not too much advance. Engine has a sealed cooling system. Cheers, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 I start on the outside with a 1/4 turn working my way to the inside, basicly the reverse of torqueing the cilinder head. same for the rocker shaft. I think Burton sell the 74° stat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 You can get a 74deg from Redline. Rocker shaft first. Be careful removing; work from left to right to left and so on, and very small turns, as the springs will push the shaft & bend it as you let off the bolts through the pillars. I'll go & look up my manual for you on order of the head bolts & torque. Removal is reverse of fitting, as they say. When the bolts are free, if your head is dowelled (and it should be), you need to ease the head off upwards, not by walloping it off sideways. Gentle taps from a rubber mallet will help if the gasket has become stuck. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon C Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 As per Haynes manual Cylinder head torque 1/ 5 lbft 2/ 21/ 31 lbft 3/ 52 / 56 lbft...........after 10 to 20 minutes wait then torque to....... 4/ 66 / 71 lbft...........then 5/ Run engine 15 minutes @ 1000 rpm re check torque to 66 / 71 lbft Rocker shaft assy torque 18 / 22 lbft Cylinder head torque sequence 9 3 1 5 7 8 6 2 4 10 _________________________ Gordon. Morgan LeMans62 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 Too slow! I'll just take the manual back to the shed... Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon C Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 _________________________ Gordon. Morgan LeMans62 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randybugger Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 what map are you using Griff? I've just fited a megajolt and mine seems to run about the same temperature (Roger King 155 engine) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Perry Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 Cooler the better with a crossflow (within reason) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griff Posted March 21, 2010 Author Share Posted March 21, 2010 Blimey. Away for a few minutes and tons of response. Thanks all. Hmmmm....head isn't dowelled, came off dead easily. The gasket was a triple layer unit same as a spare I have - looks like a quality unit and from the piles of receipts I've inherited, guess this came from Burton. There seems to have been some weeping on No.1 between the oilway, waterway and cylinder which explains the Brillcream and dropping water level, the temperature too no doubt. No obvious head issues and my straight edge says it's flat, everything else looks clean too. Is there anything else worth checking whilst the head is off? I'll probably fit some valve guide oil seals to get rid of the start up "puff". As for maps, I've been running one from Jon Law called safexflow that I think originates from the Autosportslapbs website (not found many around yet but I'll eventually get mine sorted on a rolling road so just need something a little conservative for the moment). It just seems a little coincidental that I switch to MegaJolt, no other changes, and I get an overheat. I did drain the system to remove the radiator for easier access to the trigger wheel and VR sensor, but took plenty of care refilling and put the same amount of coolant back in as I drained out (an assumption that there were no airlocks before I suppose). Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 Fit dowels when putting the head back on. I think Burton do them. I use a heavily modified map that has a max advance of 35deg at 4000RPM, and it's pretty 2D at the moment, but it does back off to 31deg at full throttle. I've not noticed any temp changes. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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