Cycle Wing fixing

[Dunsfold Dave]

 

Just had my cycle wing come loose... damn pheasant. I have seached on here for how to fix and Sikaflex 292 etc type of adhesive seems to be whats required, however I have read about big bolts fixing what is this a belt and braces approach? there are no bolts holding it at present, do I just clean it up and rebond it, or is there some clever trickery you lot all know.

 

DD

[Pete-B]

I decided to go the bolt route speak to cc you need four stainless bolts with lock nuts in each wing also rubber washers under each bolt head, (two bolts in each wing stay).

[shn7]

Dave,

 

Good to see you this mroning. I think you must be referring to Big Head fasteners. These aren't bolts. They are a flat perforated stainless steel plate (about an inch square) with a couple of stainless wired loops welded to them.

 

Use the Sikaflex to fix these to the underside of the wing and then use some wide cable ties through the wire loops to attach to the wing stay. Works very well as long as the underside of the wing is cleaned and roughened prior to fixing the BigHeads and the correct type of Sikaflex is used. Pretty sure 292 is the correct one as you've already identified.

 

The advantages of this method are that you have no visible bolts n the top surface of the wing and they are easy to remove by cutting the cable ties.

 

Steve.

Sussex (West) AR

Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear

[Dunsfold Dave]

 

Steve

 

It was good to meet up today if just a bit chilly.

 

The existing wing seemed not to have the big head fasteners but was simply bonded, is this an option?

DD

[Grubbster]

Yes you can just bond to the wing stays, that is what Caterham do - probably worth roughing up the powdercoat a bit to get something solid to bond to. The advantage of bigheads is that they allow easy removal of the wing should you ever need to.

 

It's only taken four and a half years - I have started my website at last! Early days yet . . .

[shn7]

Dave, As Grubbster says, yes you can bond direct. The important bit is to make sure everything is clean and roughened.

 

Steve.

Sussex (West) AR

Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear

[RiF]

We have composed the following:

 

NOTES ON FITTING CYCLE WINGS

 

 

These instructions are given in good faith only, as a guide on the methods available for the mounting of cycle wings onto the metal wing stays. Secure mounting is vital as a wing will be a dangerous object if it becomes detached. Preparation is the most important part of mounting. Look at your surface preparation and be sure that whatever you are assembling with does not have a recognisable failing point (e.g. Powder coating). Goodville Engineering do not take any responsibility for failure or damage caused.

 

Firstly you will need to determine the correct position of the wing on the wing stays. Use a small piece of insulation or masking tape to mark the rough positions of the wing stays on the wings. To make fitting easier, now remove the wheel. Replace the wing and align to your desired position (see your markings on the tape). With a felt tip pen you can now mark the inside of the wing along either side of the wing stay and remove the tape. Do remember to double check that the wing is sitting on the wing stay correctly and is symmetrical from all directions.

 

Method 1:

 

SECURE WITH BOLTS. A very simple and effective method. We advise that a small piece of rubber or a rubber washer be placed under the head of the bolt before it passes through the wing and is secured with a nyloc nut. The bigger the head of the bolt, the less likely there will be for the wing to be damaged around this mounting point over time. It is advisable to stick some self adhesive foam strip to the edges of the wing stays in contact with the wings. This will reduce vibration and movement.

 

Method 2:

 

GLUING DIRECTLY TO THE WING STAY. This method can have several problems. Firstly, you will not be able to detach the wing easily in case of damage (a cheese wire will cut through the adhesive if needed). The other problem is that the joint will be only as good as the painted or powder coating on the wing stay. Over time this surface finish is likely to fail with all the vibration, corrosion, etc. To fi,t simply abrade along the lines you have marked on the wing, and also around half the wing stays diameter (based on either side of the point of contact). Then make 100% sure it is clean, dry and dust free. To make a neat job it is worth putting some masking tape on the areas that you want protected (along the lines of where you have abraded). It should be noted that you want at least 15mm width abraded across the wing. Apply mastic adhesive Terostat 939 in black (supplied by us, see note below on opening) to the surfaces. Use a blunt butter knife to smooth out. Press wing lightly into place. You need to apply enough pressure to squeeze a small amount of adhesive out but not so hard that there is no adhesive left in contact where the stay touches the wing. Smooth out the mastic so that it creates a U shape from wing . In other words the sides of the wing stay become flat with excess adhesive. You can smooth this very sticky adhesive out with a strong soap solution or saliva. Be very careful where this sticky adhesive gets deposited as it is very difficult to remove off any surface. If in contact with a carbon surface then we suggest wipe off as much as possible with dry tissue and then use soap and water. On other surfaces acetone will help to clean.

 

Method 3:

 

BIGHEAD TYRAP SYSTEM. Abrade the back surface of the plate that will be in contact with the wing. Using small cable ties secure 2 of the Bighead fasteners to each wing stay in a suitable location. Place wing on top and align. Mark onto the wing where the Bighead is in contact with the wing. Thoroughly abrade a surface slightly larger than the Bighead plate on the wing. Make sure the Bighead and the abraded surface on the wing is clean, dry and dust free. Apply adhesive to the Bighead and the wing, making sure you are wetting the surfaces as you go (not just squeezing a bead that is not sticking to the surface). Place wing onto the Bigheads, align and lightly press. Make sure the wing is held in place using either masking tape or insulation tape to stop it moving. Remove excess adhesive and spread an even amount over the top of the Bighead where it has come through the perforations. Leave for a minimum of 24 hours but preferably longer. When hard cut off the small cable ties. It is advisable to stick some self adhesive foam strip to the edges of the wing stays in contact with the Bigheads. This will reduce vibration and movement. Remount the wings using the slightly bigger cable ties. These should loop in and out between either side of the Bighead loops and not wrap underneath the wing stay.

 

Method 4:

 

As above but with an ADDITIONAL PLATE stuck over the top of the Bighead to sandwich the Bighead perforated plate in place. These can be glued in place once the Bighead is fully glued and hard, prior to re cable tying on. To do this you will need to have made sure that the excess adhesive spread across the perforated plate is not too thick or lumpy, in other words just a minimum thickness left prior to cure. In addition when first abrading the wing, the patch that you are rubbing will need to be slightly bigger, in other words the size of the sandwich plate. When gluing use excess adhesive and press firmly into place. Be careful that this plate is not sticking up too much, stopping you installing the cable ties.

 

CHOICE OF ADHESIVE for method 3 and 4

 

We offer a choice of adhesives. The Terostat is basically a liquid rubber, extremely tough and flexible. We use this for industrial uses and to glue panels onto the 7, assembly of rear light blocks, etc. Sticks well to almost everything. There are other adhesive mastics available from other manufacturers.

 

TEROSTAT 939: To open the cartridge, tap the metal sealing plate inwards (at the wider end of the tube). Remove the granules that are there to absorb moisture and with a screw driver just press back and smooth out the lip from removing the plate. To open the nozzle end, simply tap the pointed end of a plastic nozzle into the small hole, to break the aluminium sealing. Withdraw and wipe nozzle before screwing onto the cartridge and cutting a slant of the desired size to the nozzle. These cartridges should fit in a normal cartridge gun. This adhesive mastic cures with humidity and temperature although neither should be forced. As a guide at normal humidity at 20 degrees C it will cure at a rate of approximately 3mm depth in 24 hours. For areas that are thicker it will take considerably longer. We would suggest a minimum of 3 days but ideally 7 days for the adhesive to cure.

 

 

EASI-STICK: For rapid assembly. This is basically using an alternative adhesive to the Terostat 939. Both methods 3 and 4 are the same but this glue is a fast setting, 2 part adhesive called Easi-stick that we use for assembly of aeroscreens. This is manufactured by our company. This adhesive allows a certain degree of flexibility but gives the impression it is rigid. The disadvantage is that we are unsure as to the durability when gluing a thin and flexible wing in place that will have a considerable amount of pressure and vibration placed on it over the years. From all of our tests it is good and the cable ties seem to break first. Again preparation is of paramount importance. Follow the instructions supplied with the adhesive. We would advise that you only glue one set of Bigheads at a time. This glue will gel in 20 minutes at 20 degrees, hard within 2 hours although full cure will need 24 hours.

 

 

 

 

 

 

RiF Driving one of the first Duratec 7, and building CA07BON for Henrietta 😬 😬 😬.for pictures of 7 and carbon andCA07BON