Calling 2.0L Duratec owners

[Johnty Lyons]

Thought wasn't necessary

Black ball him on Thursday

This can only be Willie....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

'''''''''''''A classic Blatchat troll is trying to make us believe that he is a genuine skeptic with no hidden agenda. He is divisive and argumentative with need-to-be-right attitude, "searching for the truth", flaming discussion, and sometimes insulting people or provoking people to insult him. Troll is usually an expert in reusing the same words of its opponents and in turning it against them.

 

While sometimes, he may sound like a stupid, uninformed, ignorant poster, do not be deceived! Most trolls are highly intelligent people trying to hide behind a mask of stupidity and/or ignorance! They usually have an agenda. Very few trolls come to Blatchat out of pure skepticism.

 

A Blatchat Troll is generally a person who is extremely skeptical of the main forum subject.

He is generally interested to make other forum members look stupid. A troll will sometimes use insults to provoke other people to insult him. Then, he will complain to moderators of being insulted and will request that his opponents get banned from further discussion.

*wavey* *wavey* *wavey*

 

Edited by - Johnty Lyons on 9 Oct 2007 23:28:17

[r c ole]

jeez JL Ur as bad give us abreak

[Willie.]

Damn...caught out.

 

My humblest apologies to all involved, this was purely a wind up of our Timmy and wasn't meant to get other innocent parties aggrivated.

 

I've a tatty old 1.8K Supersport with a LSD 😬 I've had it, broken it, fixed it and made it faster for a while now...so I'll try not to ask any newbie questions.

 

Personally, I absolutely love the Duratec, although I would tend to go for the 2.0 over the 2.3.

 

Should I make a proper, formal introduction on ChitChat?

 

Oh, and I think I'll give the next meet a miss 😬

 

Willie

[AMMO]

Nice wind up 😬

 

Regarding chain tensioners, I've been doing this mod for a couple of years.

 

The Mk1 version was solely mechanical but retained the ability to lube the chain through the guide. After discussing the problem with Pete McEwan he came up with the good idea of retaining the hydraulic portion. This means that after the chain has been tensioned manually, if it stretches, the hydraulic part still does its bit. With a totally manual tensioner if you have to re-tension it you have to take the timing cover off. With a new chain you may have to re-tension after a thousand miles or so. The modification I have been doing is very similar the one shown in the photos.

 

The problem with the chain tesioner ratchet is not to do with the guide slapping around and breaking the teeth. It is to do with the chain over-tensioning when the engine is cold. The ratchet moves to the next tooth and when the engine heats up and expands it makes the chain incredibly tight to the point that if you press down with all your weight on the chain it would not move. I have seen this happen in the flesh a total of three times. On a couple of occasions this has manifested itself with an engine vibration and a loss of power. This did not cause any damage and once the tesioner mod was done everthing went back to normal. It may lead to the teeth breaking from the ratchet mechanism but I have never seen this. Possibly because the engines have been stopped fairly quickly when something was sensed to have changed. However Pete has told me he has found ratchet teeth in the bottom of the sump before now.

 

I don't bother doing the mod to the cooking 210 / 220 bhp engines as these seem to have survived unscathed. Anything else that is a bit hotter I do.

 

I am working on a Mk3 Version which will go back to being mechanical but with the ability to be adjusted without taking the timing cover off. This will do away with the hydraulic portion as I want to be able to maintain accurate cam timing at high rpm. I don't think the hydraulic tensioner allows for this becaue I have found chain marks inside the low line cam covers. There is a reason why the stock cam cover is shaped the way it is. It is to allow the top run of the chain to flap around at certain rpm. There wil be certain instances where the chain is tight everywhere apart from the run between the two cam sprockets. The chain will effectively bunch up and touch the cam cover. The Mk3 version will put a stop to that happening.

 

AMMO

 

Edited by - AMMO on 10 Oct 2007 08:24:44

[timbo]

 

Willy, I wasn't far wrong when I said no power and shoite tyres

 

Your day will come

 

BUSA POWWWER

[Dobuy]

Thanks for the accurate explanation AMMO, hadn't heard it explained like that before.

Cheers,

Neil

 

Dubai Duratec SV

[AMMO]

No problem Neil.

 

Forgot to say that the hydraulic part has a non return valve so that in theory it should not pump down. In practice I'm not so sure.

 

I'm still convinced that a totally mechanical system that is externally adjustable is the way to go for high performance engines. Having said that the current system seems to work fine.

 

Always looking for ways to improve the engine further.

 

AMMO