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who else has had a Brise alternator fail ?


Jason Plato

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If you are convinced by the blurb on www.brise.co.uk it states that ALL their alternators have heavy duty regulators and uprated bearings. I also read the spec sheet when I collected my alt from Steve Hurst which read much the same, max safe revs 15,500 rpm.

 

Brise certainly have them apart rotate the field windings, perhaps they fit the uprated bearings whilst its ijn bits. don`t know any more sorry.


 

Brise use at least three suppliers for different aspects of the modification of the alternators. I happen to use one of them for all my alternator rebuilds/repairs. If you are running a rally car with a gazillion watts of lamps for night running, you need a Brise uprated alternator. For a Seven, a boggo alternator is just fine. The donor vehicles (Hyundai etc.) don't suffer from non-charging at idle while having an idle to 6000rpm rev range on the engines. Even if you imagine a 9000rpm rev limit on one of our engines, it means the alternator should be fully active by 1500 engine rpm. For my money that means a 2:1 gearing up of the alternator, with alternator revs maxed at 18000rpm. A boggo alternator whould be fine with this. The extra revs also provide extra airflow.

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Raceline originally sold me one of their alternators when I bought my kit, but as my car was LHD, the slightly larger size of their small alternator *confused* fouled the steering rack. They swapped it for a small brise unit which I successfully fitted with one of Mic's mounting kits on the inlet side. I now have it on th exhaust side.

So AFAIK the 'standard' Raceline Alternator is not a Brise unit, but they can supply it.

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Apparently the guys at Brise hate Mondays because they get so many calls re their failed alternators !

 

I've had about 5 of them over the years and think they're rubbish particularly considering mine failed on the Friday before the fastest Caterham event *mad*

 

I've been recommended to use the base alternator before Brise modify it !

 

 

 

Home of BDR700

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So we have loads of failures. No one has said what exactly is failing????? Perhaps if we had details of exactly what has failed and it is common we could make an objective decission of weather its revs related or an electronic component failure due to heat or a high voltage spike. It should then be possible to engineer the problem out.
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My first failure followed the 2002 "Ladies Day" at Curborough where my car spent more time than usual queueing in traffic (not charging). I suspect this failure was heat related - the regulator packed up.

 

SInce then, most of my alternator issues can be traced back to wiring faults (spikes). I suspect that under-gearing the alternator is not a sensible thing to do when it is sited on the hot side. The major source of heat is radiant heat from the exhaust. The alternator's cooling fan would obviously be doing more if it was spinning faster. I have seen little evidence that these alternators self-destruct based on revs alone. Consider the gearing we see on some standard alternators where they spin many times faster than engine speed. For the small 40A alternator, I would source independently and arrange its gearing to give minimum peak speeds of 18,000 rpm.

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I collected the suzuki alternator from the factors today whilst I was ooop north - guess what *wink* its exactly the same as my fresh one purchased last week. Even the test document is the same *smile*. Big difference was this one was only £106 inc not £190 inc and its brand new with 12mth warrenty *smile*

 

I just need to have a close comparison and measure up the dimensions tomorrow with the one that is presently at the autoelec's for repair to be double sure. But the number on the body is the same and everything so it should be fine *thumbup*

 

here is C7 TOP

Taffia Area Rep *thumbup*

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Dave as I posted earlier the Brise alternators are definately modified as they rotate the field coils by 90 degrees , they are different to the ones supplied by Steve Hurst.. Mick also posted that they added a diode so you can rely on that being correct. Why do you doubt *confused*
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Hi Neil

Your alternator should be 45 amp output if it is the one I supplied. Although the size may be the same the components inside are different dependant on spec. I've had 80amp output the same size.

 

 

 

 

Edited by - mic on 22 Jul 2007 20:45:08

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