Gearbox leak?

[Rhys Mann]

Any thoughts /advice on this leak? Anyone come across a similar leak and how to resolve? Its a Type 9 box, thanks

[SM25T]

Is there a photo to come ?

[StevehS3]

Looking at you previous photos I couldn't see a leak. I think the splatter around the UJ is normal as it is a greased joint and it flings the excess out. 

[ECR]

Agree...

[ScottR400D]

Looks like a slight rear seal leak to me. Mine does that and my UJs are sealed for life. 

Can't see how a UJ flinging grease off would get it there. 

[John Vine]

#5:  My view, too.  I suppose it's just possible that the redundant speedo drive is weeping, but that seems less likely?

Perhaps the OP could post up the photos again?

JV

[Rhys Mann]

Here's a video link to it:

thanks again for everyones help

[John Vine]

#7   Interesting, thanks.  I'm wondering if there's a leak ahead of the gearbox?  Or maybe someone has spilled oil while topping up?

I would suggest you wipe off all the oil, take the car for a spin, and then check again for leaks.  A second video would be very handy.

JV

[Rhys Mann]

Thanks John and no problem, will get a video done over the early next week as i won't have access to a ramp until then.

[Rhys Mann]

As a quick update, there doesn't seem to be any more fluid underneath the car after wiping off and driving out for a few miles, I have noticed that when she won't go into gear that the clutch has dropped down a bit, opened up the pedal box and couldn't see anything out of the ordinary there?! any ideas?

[ECR]

Have you bled the clutch (I assume it's a hydraulic clutch) If not, do that first. It sounds very like a clutch problem rather than a gearbox problem.

[John Vine]

Good news about the lack of oil etc.  For a thorough test, you'll need to do do a longer trip (20+ miles) to get everything properly warm.

Re the clutch action, there's possibly some air in the system.  Try bleeding the hydraulics. 

The other possibility is leaking seals in the master cylinder.  Overhaul kits are available and easy to fit.

JV 

[Rhys Mann]

Willing to give it a go, any guides on how to do it? is it a straight forward job?  Thanks again for all your support 

[John Vine]

I'm not familiar with the Sigma.  Does your bleed nipple etc look like this:

If so, this is the procedure from the Assembly Guide:

19 Remove the clutch master cylinder cap
and protect the surrounding scuttle paintwork
with clean cloths to prevent possible fluid
leakage from causing damage to the paintwork.

20 Locate the bleed nipple/key on the
gearbox bell-housing (refer to Fig 1) and remove
the bleed nipple cover. Ensure that the bleed
key is in the position shown in Fig 1 (rotated fully
clockwise) and fill the clutch master cylinder
reservoir with fresh brake fluid that complies with
SA3J 1703F DOT 4 specification. Replace the
master cylinder cap.

21 Rotate the bleed key counter-clockwise
until it stops and place a length of flexible hose
over the bleed screw and place the other end of
the tube into a clean glass container and pour in
sufficient brake fluid to cover the end of the tube.

22 Pump the clutch pedal until good pressure
is felt and clear fluid, free of air bubbles, flows
from the bleed nipple. Rotate the bleed key fully
clockwise, remove the pipe and replace the
bleed nipple cover.

23 Mop up any spilled fluid, check for clutch
‘feel’ and correct operation (repeat the bleeding
procedure if necessary); finally, hold down the
clutch pedal and check for leaks.

That should apply generally.

What year and model is your car?  If you'd like a copy of the Assembly Guide. send me a Private Message with your email address.

JV

[Rhys Mann]

Would this method work if i got one of the bleeding kits below and followed the video you think?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mityvac-MV8000-Test-kit/dp/B00265M9SS/ref=asc_df_B00265M9SS/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310577373001&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9838398142550697009&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9180833&hvtargid=pla-316724733774&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

[Rhys Mann]

Thanks so much John, will check this out and get back to you, a guide would be super useful, my email is rhysmann1@hotmail.com thanks

[John Vine]

#15:  Don't bother with any of that.  All you need is some DOT4 fluid, a clean jam jar and a length of flexible hose to fit over the bleed screw. Then follow the Assembly Guide procedure

Re the Assembly Guide, versions can vary according to model and year.  What model and year is your car?  For now, I've sent you the 2015 text version.  There are later ones, commonly called "IKEA-style", which (IMO) are not so useful.

(ETA:  You might want to edit your email address by adding a few spaces.  That foils the scanning bots!)

JV

 

[Rhys Mann]

Its a Sigma 1.6 125

2011

[John Vine]

#18  Thanks.  I've just sent you the 2012 version as well.

JV

[ScottR400D]

Re the oil leak, they're often very slow. I can take my car out after cleaning, for several decent runs and there'll be nothing. Then there'll be a tell tale dribble down the casting. 

I wipe it maybe twice a year that's all. 

I'd run the car for a few weeks and see if there's anything. 

[Rhys Mann]

Thanks everyone

[Geoff Brown]

Best of luck in bleeding the clutch system as access to & opening the bleed key can be a real swine of a job. 

[John Vine]

#22  That's certainly the case on my Duratec, but is it also a PITA on a Sigma?  My bleed nipple is hidden under a little alloy plate on top of the bell-housing.  I thought the Sigma one was on the side of the b/h? 

JV

[StevehS3]

I think it must be easier on the Sigma. It is a bit awkward on my 2017 but nothing more than that. It is located on the top of the b/h but not under a plate.

[John Vine]

#24  Is the Assembly Guide photo in #14 for a Sigma?  If so, that's a top and not a side view then?

I've just looked through the IKEA-style AGs (Sigma Edition 2.2 and Duratec Edition 2.3).  Unless my eyesight is failing, there's no mention anywhere about bleeding the clutch.  A very odd omission. 

JV