Wrightpayne

Looks like its been bolted up already - it has a circular witness mark.

Part no is 100E 2471.

this is useful…..

https://www.7-dna.com/spannering-2/lotus-7-parts-comparison-list-last-revision-1015.html

I found an old for sale advert linked to Mike Brotherwoods Lotus website, but part no longer there - maybe worth an email.

I helped Tazio of this parish recommission a 1985 LA crossflow and the bracket was similarly altered so I think a factory mod.

Any distinguishing marks / casting numbers on the bracket to type into google? 

Whoever purchased these wheels there is a set of prisoner wheels on ebay with caps for £200 BIN. No picture of the caps however.

I understand that the prisoner centre caps used the same tooling as those for the Superlight split rims albeit a slightly bigger diameter.

If I were desperate to make up a set of Superlights as per original spec, £200 less what you’d get for the wheels capless seems eminently reasonable IMHO.

Bit of due diligence that the caps for sale are in good order and they do in fact fit….

Googling at lunch on the bearingkits.co.uk website I think your latest ‘grooved’ purchase is for a type 3 cortina box, albeit website pictures are not always right!

Bearingkits seem to have quite a lot of new type 9 speedo drives but some teeth quantities only second hand stock.

I’m just under 100kgs if thats any help. If I get a good footing on the chassis rails I could probably balance while holding a bag of sand 🙂

Mine constantly drips on my 6speed. I’ve changed the drive in situ (a challenging task if ever there was one). It was a second hand one and still leaks. And numerous seals.

My theory is that when gearboxes are stripped the drive is tapped to knock the ‘cap’ out of the other end and the ferrule / plastic interface on the shaft is damaged.

Can you post a pic of the all steel version so I can see if its a viable option for me? 
 

Thanks Ian

I find when drilling out pop rivets it is best to knock the steel pip out of the centre using the shank of a spent rivet, then the drill is just removing the ally part and not the steel core (which causes the drill to wander and needs more drilling force!)

Not easy on the flimsy bonnet - might need an assistant and support behind the catch.

I thought they were a classic mini core.

The build manual is a pretty good start point.

Have you got the centre caps? 

Bob,

I’d check the hole size in the impact bar and go from there. I did have one of these once with a cage I brought. Never fitted it but from memory I’d say 1/4 inch.

Also, IIRC these fix through the chassis tube below the front of the seat and cannot be fitted with a lowered floor.

Canley Classics??

Hmm - the other school of thought is that oil will attract grit / dust to stick and wear the joint prematurely. I’ve never oiled my spherical bits - widetrack is circa 20 years old and on their 2nd bearing.

The bearings are PTFE lined so slippy stuff in there anyway. 

Is that better? I’d take the lower nut off and see what you’ve got.

Its not clear in the picture but this is the 8mm spacer circled - it sits on top of the spherical bearing. If you’re unsure just post a similar picture and I should be able to advise. Also a picture of the nyloc and I’ll tell you what type needed.

Ian

Here are a couple of pics. I changed my vertical links for the later type with longer threaded portion. Forgot they needed a tophat spacer too, between the nut and spherical joint, as mentioned already, to properly support the bearing due to the 8mm spacer.

1) mine doesnt have circlips, they are like a flat keyring - just get from redline or caterham. I got spares but with two pairs of reading glasses on and the car well supported I was able to extricate them with two small flat bladed screwdrivers.

The part number of the joint will show they’re quite widely available from bearing suppliers.

4) when fitting widetrack suspension to an S3 car an 8mm spacer is needed on the vertical link before inserting into the spherical joint. At some point the design of the vertical links was changed and had a longer threaded portion.

The S5 chassis came with widetrack suspension as standard but I dont know if it needed the spacer. Its just a piece of steel tube and visible if fitted. Perhaps check the build manual for the SV chassis?

5) depends. The early vertical link with narrow suspension and later vertical link (any width suspension) uses a full nyloc nut. Early vertical link with widetrack and spacer uses a special turned down nyloc nut so that the spherical bearing is properly supported as the spacer pushes it off the end of the machined stub on the bottom of the vertical link. Thread is 1/2” UNF.

(I dont know about the current radial calliper type vertical link)

6) I used some basic thread lock as much to keep moisture out as lock the bearing in  place.

I’ve changed both of mine in situ and found some threaded rod, selection of beefy washers and sockets are brilliant for removal of the old one. 

Got one of these head torches to replace the garage one (elastic gone and not very bright by modern standards) and its very good for the money. I also have one of their pencil torches with the LEDs on the side and magnetic base / pocket clip so easier to direct light where you want it.

https://www.wickes.co.uk/NEBO-Einstein™-150-Head-Lamp-Light/p/236802?fix&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsZiNiauNhAMVtYlQBh09MwWvEAQYBSABEgIahfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Ed White has posted for one in wanted today.

Or swap the disc from the old one!

From the Caterham parts catalogue (spiral bound paper version!) the rover cap described as Cap-Fuel Filler-Injection (91 onwards) is part number WLD 10010.

Ian

If it is the plastic Rover cap, I’d place a wanted advert - many change them to the aero ally type.

Have you looked at using citric acid to de-rust the outside. From what I’ve read it will not harm non rusted areas.

Available as a cleaning product.