James Arnold

My question is how do you know the prescribed amount of oil? Like Brendan, I didnt build my Xflow and I am unsure how to tell what sump I have fitted. It is not Caterham and research from old Haynes manuals show that I need to know where the sump came from to work out the amount of oil. Is there any way of telling the right amount of oil? I am about to remove the engine and sump if that help... Maybe somebody has an observers book of Ford oil sumps? I gained nearly 15 bhp from £60 (or was it 80?) spent at a rolling road. Cheap horse power! James. Edited by - James Arnold on 17 Sep 2001 12:17:55

I have a 1700 Xflow, but not a genuine Caterham one. I was advised to put BP7ES plugs in. can anybody tell me the difference? J

Many years ago I used to have use of my Grandmother's Volvo 340, complete with rubber band gear box (CVT). Personally I felt that the gear box was ideally suited to this sort of car and not much else. even my Grandmother was disappointed with it! Can anybody enlighten me what happened to the other continuous variable transmission idea. I can't remember all the details - based on a toroid shape (at least I think thats the word, like a ring donut...) I think it might have been called the torotrack. Leyland had a few trial busses using it years ago (70s). It always seemed a more elegant solution to the belt drive principal. James

Once you get the engine in transversely, fitting the tiptronic bit should easy.

I am about to 'have a go' at the brakes on my seven (xflow live axle). I understand that green stuff gets votes as my best option for the front, but what should I do at the back. The current drums are quite badly pitted on the inside. Should I bother to replace them and if so is there anything other than standard marina drums avaiable? Are standard shoes as good as anything. Currently I am suspicious that the rear brake are not trying hard enough as the front lock up very easily, but I don't want to shell out on a disk conversion.. cheers James

My first guess is brake fluid. This is fairly easy to check. The brake master cylinder is near the end of the steering column, not unnaturally at the top of the brake pedal. There is a rubber seal around the push-rod from the pedal. Peal the edges back and look for fluid inside. If its not dry then its time for a new master cylinder. Personally I'd check this sooner rather than later just in case.... J

Thanks Arnie for the name. I spoke to Phil yesterday and he certainly knows his stuff. I took the diff out last night. The pinion pin in the diff has come loose and was catching on the driven pinion, hence the nasty noise. James

When out for a fine bank holiday blast, I noticed the odd bang/clank from the rear of my 7. I put it up on axle stands for a quick look. All seemed OK, so I tried running the car in gear. At tick over in 4th I get a loud clanking (and I mean loud enough for me to worry about annoying the neighbours), which I think is coming from the axle. Its so loud its hard to tell exactly where, because it’s a bit deafening under the car. The only other thing I could think of was the prop fouling the transmission tunnel, but bouncing the suspension at the back has zero effect. If I increase the revs it goes away. Does this sound like the axle expiring in some way (live axle marina). I assume that this isn’t symptoms of a half shaft. Perhaps a tooth off the diff? It still seems to drive OK, but I can’t help thinking its unlikely to get better on its own and Brooklands next week looks doubtful, unless anybody has a second hand axle floating about… Can anybody offer me any advice? Thanks James

I was planing to buy a shift light with a single remote mount LED, to look nice and neat on the dash. The Webcon alpha look good value and I like the idea of more LEDs, but it doesn't look like it supports remote mount LEDs. Has anybody fitted one or know if it sits nicely anywhere in a 7? Why is a rev limiter not a good idea? James

I went to Red Line Tuning who are in Iver Bucks(tel 01753 655522). Its run by Tony who many years ago tuned a race mini for me. I wanted what you might call a cost effective solution (ie cheap) and was not too fussed about getting the final few percent of power. If, like me, you have an engine of dubious pedigree and want to get the most from it and get an experienced opinion, I would recommmend him. If you want that final horse power to beat off the competition on the grid I really can't say if he is your man. Likewise I don't feel I can comment on how his service might compare to Mr King's. James

I have just had my 1700 xflow rolling roaded. All a little bit more basic than Tony I'm afraid. I suspect that its partly as a result of having a dizzy and webbers. My operator did some basic checks, including a change to the timing and then did a run up through the rev range. Announced all looked good except running rich at the top end. Some new, err, somethings, in my webbers and all was better. Net result 100 bhp indicated at the rear wheels became 115. All for 75 quid. That must be the cheapest horse power I ever bought and the many stories of years in the business thrown in for free. I didn't know there was so much TR7 history to hear.... I suspect that you want to select the right rolling road for the type of car you have. My chappy has been doing xflows for 20 years. I phoned a more local place who didn't sound like they knew one end of a webber from another, even by my standards! No doubt they could work wonders with a black box... Its also a fun way to spend an hour. J

Oh dear double postings... Sorry Edited by - James Arnold on 20 Apr 2001 12:31:17

I recently purchased new wheel nuts and new centres from Demon Tweeks for 4 spoke revolutions. I can't remember what they charged me, but I don't remember it as excessive. James

Andy states: 'the maximum coefficient of friction occurs when the tyre starts to just starts to slip. This occurs with a slip factor of about 10% in the dry and about 5% in the wet. ' Is this right? I always thought that the coeff starts to decline immeadiately slip occurs. Personally I think wheel spin is fun... James

the oil I added includes filling the filter. Alas I dont think that the car does have a caterham oil sump. I seem to remember capri - does that sound right? James

I have just changed the oil and filter in my Xflow. As the engine is of somewhat uncertain history, I was warned not to trust the dip stick, but fill with 3.6 litres of oil. I can't remember who told me 3.6 litres and the oil level doesn't quite reach the minimum marked, so I am nervous I have not put enough in. Can anybody confirm for me how much oil I should use? cheers James

When is it advisable to fit an oil cooler to a X/flow, do they cook their oil easily? In my youth, no boy racer in a mini could be taken seriously without a bit of cut-away grill with a cooler poking out. And yes you guessed it no one took me seriously... Oils have moved on a bit and sevens, as a rule, don't have the gears in the sump, so is an oil cooler for serious track days and very high tunes only? James Edited by - James Arnold on 15 Mar 2001 17:26:07

Can anybody explain to me why there does not appear to be a product to seal an ally body? When I wax the day car (well Im sure I did once..), the wax appeared to form a layer on top and protect the paint. Why cant I do the same for my seven? Would a chemical engineer care to comment? Has anybody tried standard car polish? Although I always wanted an unpainted seven, I didnt realise just how much hard work it would be in the winter. I think if I ever purchased another I might find a painted one looks all the more attractive.. James

I'm keen on the luggage rack. What price are you after? James

Demon Tweeks do uprated ones in trendy colours. They give different parts number for the 1600 and 1700 Xflow, but surely there is no difference? James

There is a positive wealth of information on this topic here Edited by - James Arnold on 19 Feb 2001 17:48:29

I find the great joy of my 7 (which does have alive axle) is the ease which silly powersides can be enjoyed. Give me a quiet wet roundabout and I will show you opposite lock - err whilst on private roads obviously. Whilst I hate to mention the topic, aged 205 tyres sounds like the problem on a wet road. Whilst I'd say a 7 handles infinately better, most front drive hatches are easier to drive at speed on a wet road. Edited by - James Arnold on 12 Feb 2001 09:09:35

James, What was the price of the new seat, and what exactly do you mean by two part foam seat base ? Surely there is a seat back involved somewhere. Whilst I am not particularly tall I have short legs and a long back... James.

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