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TomB

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Posts posted by TomB

  1. Nothing to do with me, but the ad has some good pictures.  It looks like its been subject to some modification from standard.  Points I've noted: 

    its got Millwood tall stone protectors;  I don't think the silencer is original; looks like it has aftermarket dampers on;  aftermarket water temp gauge and combined oil pressure/ temp gauge, some other mods apparent on the dashboard; there is a brake bias valve next to the peddle box; it has a reprogrammable Emerald ECU; doesnt have a Caterham Dry Sump (no tower) but there's a hint in photo23 of something that might be external DS tank; the scuttle has been modified to allow it to be unbolted; the engine bay looks a but scruffy for my liking

    Its broadly looks like an SLR, but it looks like its been hacked about with - brake bias valve, wiring, Emerald, after market DS. If you want a clean original SLR, Id suggest this isn't what you'd want, but its got some good extras that are definitely worth having if you're happy to move away from originality and don't mind fettling with when something goes wrong with someone elses wiring mods. 

      

     

     

     

  2. After an oil change or after winter hibernation, I just pull the plug on the injectors, spin it round on the starter to get oil pressure then reconnect and fire it up.  It is possible to over think things - its only a road car engine, not a blue printed, hand built 917 flat 12 or Ferrari V12.    

  3. Could be Throttle Position Sensor related - check connections here, and perhaps reset it.  The ECU might not be detecting properly the closing of the throttle and its stalling.  I had this on my old 1.4SS - however, I never fully got to the bottom of it as i swopped to TB with a new TPS - but it went away afterwards!  

  4. It's definitely the 4-1 race exhaust. The SLR/ VHPD is a 4-2-1 system, with a shorter inlet pipe into the silencer to accommodate the longer 4-2-1 collector. The primaries for cylinders 2&3 are a common piece, and 1 & 4 separate. Apparently this system is better at high engine speeds, and the 4-2-1 SLR system producing more torque in the mid range.

     

  5. They're powder coated as standard not sprayed, but I guess there's no reason why you couldn't spray. The proper way would be strip out the glass & rubber, drill out rivets for the poppers and powder coat the frame.  Getting the glass out can be tricky though but perhaps you can take out the poppers and carefully mask the glass and rubber trim if spraying.    

  6. Longer wheel studs are to give more insurance against loosing your nuts! 

    I cant remember what wrapping kit I used, suggest checking out Demon Tweaks or similar.  There is a heated debate about using wrap, as some say it retains heat in the head, but I've run it for years and not had a problem so far.  It helps stop my starter wiring, which is ~1cm from primary, from melting / embrittling.  

  7. A few things I’ve done over the years:

    • Making a dip stick from some brass rod for my DS tower.
    • Drilling out the rivets and replacing with rivnuts to make a removeable scuttle.
    • Replacing the horn with something that can actually make a good, loud noise.
    • Cargo net pocket and tunnel bag or cockpit storage.
    • Club watch so I don’t need to worry about something on the dash *blah*
    • Fire extinguisher in passenger footwell.
    • Longer wheel studs 
    • Race brake reservoir cap to reduce leakage from the valve. 
    • Tyre foam secure to the chassis rails in the boot.
    • cutting Ali honeycomb in half in the boot to male it easier to remove the boot floor.
    • Wrapped the exhaust primaries.
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