TomB

I’m looking through my service history, and see the rear flexible brake hoses were last replaced in April 2009,approx 21500 miles ago. The fronts were done when I swopped to widetrack in Winter 2014/15, only around 8000 miles ago. 

The metal sleeve is visibly OK from the outside. I’m sure tintop flexible pipes are not replaced at 24000 as my service schedule suggests. Whats the collective wisdom on replacement intervals on these?

Thanks Phil. A £20 frame from Amazon and it’s ready to take pride of place in the garage.

There's certainly a few options now being the x traditional autocom or gluing something in a set of Peltors. 

Nic, please could you post up some pics?  Im thinking of doing the Fish & Chip run (Manchester-Cheptow-Aberdyfi-Manchester) with my 8 year old next year, but we'll need the ability to talk/ listen to music/stories etc.  Its one my mind to try and sort something out in the next few months.   

Hi Phil, 

please could I have the R500?

thanks

Tom

If hibernating for a couple of months over winter, I can’t imagine it makes any difference at all. If going into long term storage it’s a different matter. 

Would be a great opportunity to add lightness and use modern thinwall wiring throughout.  When I replaced some wiring from the rear right wheel area for all the rear lights, fuel pump, the difference in the size of the wrapped loom was noticeable over the original wiring. With hindsight, doing something simlr when I rebuilt would have been worth doing, but theres only do many hours in the day!      

Between the inner and outer skin, roughly where your right knee is a driver and left as passenger.  You can squirt treatment in at the bottom of the respective footboxes.  The left (on a K series) seems to pick up more grit & much than the right, presumably a function of being nearer the road edge.    

Wow, what a find! 

Corrosion treatment is a novel use for left over sheep juice  

I use my garage   

Hi Nick, 

I can confirm I don't need to remove the IACV rail to get my KV6 manifold off. It's tight & takes some time, but I've only ever undone the nuts pictured below with an open ended spanner, and the other nuts and bolts with normal sockets or hex bit sockets.

I hope this helps,

 cheers Tom

Are you sure you need to remove that rail to get them off the engine?  I dont recall having to take it off to remove them.  Ill try and remembe to have a look at mine later on. 

Not used, but I fitted the upgrades toughened PCM one a good few years ago and it's worked as intended. 

The Range Rover will be surprised how it all adds up - strip, reskin, repaint, refit. At least a grand Id guess if doing it commercially. 

They look amazing! Did you wire them in so they have permanent DRL, or switched with the sidelight switch as below? 

I've got a Redtop of some sort - its been bullet proof.  I really like the idea of having a fully sealed battery rather than all that nasty acid sloshing around just above passengers feet.  My banner leaked somehow and marked the ali floor, it would have made a mess of a pair of legs! There's that all important weight saving too          

Green it is not

Really depends how you define it.  It is 'green' in respect of emissions at point of use - so no local air pollution, a significant concern in urban area.  It is 'green' if it can be powered by renewables - either domestic solar or green tariffs, or charged over night when base load is provided largely by nuclear and wind. 

True the payback for CO2 emission is slightly longer than the equivalent ICE car, but its still worth doing for reduce pointed source until that time IMO and that huge amounts of energy (read CO2) are not required to drill, transport (and spill), crack crude oil and transport petrol.  

I love my ID3 - it's the best car I've ever driven / owned for 'normal' driving.  The only fly in the oitment for me is the lack of roof carrying capacity for bikes.   

I did this a couple of years ago, at a similar time of year.  I started after SORN in October, and it took much longer than planned - I think I got back on the road August/ September in time to go away again.  But I wasn't rushing - I was determine to do the best I could even if it took longer.  

I initially set out to just have the car repainted, but before I did, I wanted Arch to inspect the chassis and check it was true, with any rectification.  However one thing led to another and Arch ended up replacing all exterior skins (sides, rear and scuttle) and dealing with any corrosion they found.   Arch transported it down to TSK in Kent for painting, then TSK brough it back home.  They are used to working together, so give Bruce/ Phil at Arch, and Tony at TSK and see if they can work out something similar.

The powder coated engine bay/ side panels is worth doing - not only does it look smart but thanks to the coating, the steel/ali contact leading to bi-metallic corrosion in the side panels is in theory eliminated.     

So my project wasn't a full rebuild as such, it was a reconditioning exercise, with new skins, paint and the chassis checked and treated as necessary.  With more budget Id have done the full shot blast/ recoat etc, but it was more than I really wanted to spend.  

 

Jawohl 

Probably one of the greatest war films ever made.  There was a cinema release that was only movie length, but the full 5-6 mini series is the one to watch.  Like Downfall, so much the better for being in German and not dubbed, and not telling the story from the allied side. Not as fruitful for Memes though as Downfall  

They look really good.  

Yep