TRP

The only tyres I think anyone needed to worry about was the Extreme vr2's that I tried. These have now been moved to list 1c in the soft compounds, so I don't see the need to add regulations that may deter people.

David, I think it's becoming obvious why Simon hasn't offered him a dual drive...

I use these ratchet straps, the loop is shorter than the normal 0.5m sling most people use. I find these much easier to position on the wheel as the 0.5m ones are a bit big with little 13" wheels! https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F113899487391

My one year plan is to try and help save Simon the expense of going to the FIA hillclimb masters, see you on the midland hills!

Aeroscreens- My car actually came with ZZRs, a 1C tyre and so I bought a set of ZZSs, and did a few trackdays to get used to the 1Bs I thought I would be using. Not all ZZR's are 1C, if they are the original spec tyre they are 1B. You could run in class 5 on them if you wanted but it makes absolutely no sense when you could run in class 4 and be more competitive!

It boils down to tyres, if your using list 1b tyres your car is perfect for class 4. If you want to run in class 5 you move away from roadgoing regs and will require a HANS device, probably new wheels, tyres that wear out quicker and be useless for anything but sprints/hillclimb. I think it's very disappointing people are being pushed away from class 4 as it is a proper roadgoing production class as would be found at many other events and could be a great class if people embraced the new tyre regs (I say new but they're not anymore). Unfortunately there are too many higher classes and the competition suffers as a consequence. Tom

I have a complete 3.6 diff I bought off eBay a while ago I’d happily sell on, I’ve never actually removed it from the box it got delivered in though! Message me if your interested. Tom

National A up from £96 to £149! MUK really supporting grass roots motorsport!

You could do a school day at Harewood hillclimb for speed event specific training. Another option could be to try and do a curborough day with some experienced sprinters. I'm not sure the tuition you get on a trackday would be particularly helpful, my only tuition as such has come from my dad though so I'm not particularly well qualified to advise!

You need to measure your chamber volumes to really know how your compression ratio will be altered. What piston manufacturers say the compression ratio will be and what you actually get can sometimes be very different. I don’t think the uprated oil rail fits with Caterham dry sump systems, which may be worth considering if you ever plan to upgrade, which may not be a bad idea given your current situation! Have you had your injectors flow tested as another safety precaution? I’d definitely get the car mapped, potentially not with the same person as last time if it was pinking! Increasing the c.r. would only make that worse, it’s probably worth making sure you only use super unleaded too.

Who mapped your engine if you had pinking? Unfortunately you have double tang rods (rover made single tang rods,I think they were fitted to early engines) and that won’t of helped. I used max speeding rods and omega pistons in my engine and couldn’t fault them, inconsistency in manufacture is the concern with Chinese rods but I’ve heard of a few people who’ve successfully used max speeding as well as me and the Chinese rods DVA sell run the same risks. That’s if you decide to rebuild it! Maybe a good time to stick a Duratec or busa engine in!

A well deserved win with an excellent time! It might not be official, but even if we’d of got another run the rain would of meant nobody was likely to go faster!

The master cylinder in the photograph is a standard one not the AP racing version.

Only removed from my car as I now have a twin master cylinder setup. Worked perfectly prior to removal. £75

Now Sold!

I’m upgrading to an enclosed trailer so I have my PRG Minisporter for sale. It’s a twin axle trailer that’s small, light and fits in most single garages. It’s only big enough for an S3 chassis at 5’ 5” wide. It’s in good condition and comes with wheel chocks and a winch. I’m after £1200, located near Market Drayton, Shropshire.

Not Shropshire but I recently had Firow propshafts make up a pair of propshafts for my Hayabusa conversion and they were very helpful. They are in Holmes Chapel, Cheshire so might not be too far away?

Adjust the bearings until they make contact means just that! As you tighten the housings the races will be brought together until they contact each other. You are feeling for when you feel the races come together which will be felt by an increased resistance when turning the housings. You do this with a greater backlash than you aim to finish with to ensure the mesh of the gears isn’t too tight effecting the feel of the bearing contact. You then work from this point to set your 0.01mm backlash by moving the housings together at the point of contact. Then once you have 0.01mm backlash you correctly pre load the bearings by turning one housing a further 4 castellations. You should then have 0.12mm backlash and correctly preloaded bearings. It’s a job that takes a certain amount of ‘engineering feel’ which has to be honed with experience.

I’d guess the Quaife ATB is dimensionally similar to my ZF so you will need to remove some material from the sides of the casing where the back plate goes on. I seem to remember shaving something like 5mm off.

The preload on the crown wheel bearings is set by turning one bearing housings 4 castellation teeth further on one side (make sure you preload the correct housing). This will then alter the backlash which if set correctly before preloading the bearings will now be within spec. I’ve seen people in the past post that the backlash in a Sierra diff has to be 0.01mm, this is incorrect and if you set your final backlash this tight it will undoubtedly destroy your diff. I seem to remember the final backlash should be something like 0.12mm. Also measure this in at least three points around the crown wheel incase you have excessive run out.

I also used max speeding rods in my 200+bhp k series. I’ve now sold that engine but used it for a couple of trackdays and half a dozen sprints and hillclimbs with no problems to report. The engine revved to 8k and went there regularly!

I’m about to remove my Caterham 6 speed box. It was rebuilt a couple of years ago by road and race transmissions and since then hasn’t seen a huge amount of use. I’d like £1500 for it.

What’s your current cylinder head spec (cams, valve sizes, porting?) and exhaust manifold? What does your power plot look like? My old 1600ss pulled to the limiter in 4th (5 speed box) easily! If you use 285 cams with an otherwise standard head the ports won’t flow enough to see the gains they could offer especially higher up the Rev range. Handling wise if you haven’t had the car corner weighted and the camber set correctly there’s probably a lot to be gained there too and probably worth asking Dave to sort if your going to see him!

My brother in law has booked curborough for the day on the 19th of July and has a number of places available still. If anyone would like a place please get in touch.