SM25T

21 minutes ago, aerobod - near CYYC said:

SWMBO had a good laugh at my expense a couple of weeks ago when she had to dig around with a pair of tweezers in my ear to extract an ear plug which was inserted just a bit too far.

Oops

Have to turn the lights on before you take a photo !

1 hour ago, StevehS3 said:

Separately, that sharp yellow spike pushed into the radiator fins can be a future problem if it vibrates and punctures the radiator. 

What is it for ?

2 hours ago, Ainsley said:

It's not just noise .... the whole car is buzzing !!

You can adjust the ride height at the rear. When I changed to 300lb front springs the rears were changed to 175lb linear springs. New one way adjustable dampers too.

Black nylon insect mesh from eBay supplier. Fill the complete roll bar. Much more effective than a thin strip between headrests

Does sound like cable adjustment nuts loose or cable fraying ?

In old money 👍

Use the bolt in the pipe to let air out when the front of the car is raised. By the way, the bobbin looks a bit perished ?

I got advice and my springs from ProComp Motorsport in Birmingham 

I was advised that they must be mounted with the adjuster downwards when I bought mine.

Change to stiffer springs. 55mm without your weight is way too low. My SV was fitted with 170lb springs and I changed to 250, then 300 👍 the spring is much longer too.

I changed my front springs, initially to 250lb then up to 300lb. Smooths out the bumps and helps keep the sump off the ground. Check any ride heights with the equivalent of your weight in the car.

I recall Sigma having 110mm under the sump from new

Check it with the equivalent of your weight in the car.

The K-series pull type hydraulic clutch utilises the standard clutch fork. Simple swap 

15 minutes ago, JP said:

Just picking up this thread from the one on coil over adjustment.  I need to get my suspension ride heights into the correct ballpark before a longer drive to get it properly flat floored / cornered.  My question is where does one measure the ride height at the rear?  I am sure I have seen a diagram of this somewhere but cannot find it ion my assembly guide or owners manual.

So, do I set the front with, say, 75mm sump clearance, then measure the front ride height under the chassis say at the rear leg of the front suspension wishbone, then add 15mm rake but then measure the rear height where?  At the front A-frame mount?  Where is the reference point for measuring rear ride height?

Do it all with the equivalent of your weight in the car.

I suffered two failed hydraulic slave cylinders before ditching the hydraulic system and fitting a clutch cable. No other parts required. Took about 20 minutes. So much nicer to use and easy to carry a spare cable.

There's no easy way to remove the dash 😀 .... mobile phone handy for looking behind it.

Crazy

Car spares shop. eBay. etc ... measure the diameter of the collar and see if slots or holes around the edge. Buy as required

11 hours ago, Fastinmydreams said:

Thanks all!  I didn't have to go further than base one.  Multi meter revealed that the battery was only delivering 10.7 amps, so it was never going to start.  I had assumed that it was fine as it had been run through a full recon cycle on my CTEK conditioner. and was showing green lights.  Just goes to show.  I think I had left the battery discharged for too long.  The months slip by so quickly!

Regards!

Amps or volts ?

It's a heavy contact somewhere, as the NVH in this car is really harsh !

I suspect you'll find it didn't get changed when they started using the Mazda gearbox. This is Caterham.

I think it proved very beneficial, but leave it to the OP to comment.