Steve Sheldon

Hi Darren - as long as it has the jubilee clips within a 6" length I can use it OK - my main silencer is a bigger diam then the CAT. Caterham p/n is 70262 priced at £34.20 +p&p. How about £15 + p&p? Thanks Steve

Yes - I am still looking - pls let me know what you have and how much? Thanks

Hi Lee - I had the same problem (1999 VVC) and I fitted a 52mm Metal body which cured the problem. Burlen Fuel Systems Burlen will give you a club discount if you ask. The std plastic body does not shut down properly and is affected by heat/wear etc as it becomes oval. Also the 52mm gives better throttle response and slight increase in BHP. I also fitted a 3.5mm restrictor in the IACV pipe which runs to the plenum chamber. This has made sure that the idle stays constant at all times - 800/900 rpm - this is originally there to cope with aircon etc on a standard saloon install so it does not stall when idling! It also makes braking better as the engine is not pulling on overrun. Email me if you need any more info.

 

Edited by - ssheldon on 25 Nov 2013 14:10:20

Hi Darren - yes it is just the CAT - I believe there is only one size although mine measures 6" along the flat - can you help?

Thanks Steve

Meant to say that Black or Alloy would be OK

Does anyone have a 6" long Catalyst Exhaust shield no longer required? Thanks

 

Edited by - SSheldon on 23 Nov 2013 12:56:48

 

Edited by - Ssheldon on 23 Nov 2013 12:58:01

Thanks for all your answers Gents - I will now deliberate re mudflaps!

I believe that some cars with 15" wheels had slightly longer cycle wings compared to standard. Could someone pls measure the full length for me? many thanks

Winter upgrade:

I have for sale an unused Arnie Webb top wishbone rosejoint kit for S3 - replaces std balljoint. Allows for rapid camber or tracking change without splitting the joint. Fine adjustment in approx 1mm increments (at wheel rim on 13" wheels) instead of the std 2mm. In reality this means you can adjust your camber in 0.35 degree increments instaed of 0.70 degrees - provides much finer setup. Also looks good!

 

The latest version with all spacers, fitting instructions etc

 

£145 inc postage

 

SOLD

 

 

 

Edited by - SSheldon on 30 Oct 2013 20:37:53

 

Edited by - SSheldon on 30 Oct 2013 20:38:32

 

Edited by - SSheldon on 30 Oct 2013 20:45:51

Fit a Powerlite 430 and all will be solved. It has everything to do with the starter and not the wiring Powerlite Spec

Due to my sons' wedding dates we are unable to go to our lovely apartment in Erimi, Cyprus. Situated in Club Aphrodite, this RCI accredited 'small' resort has a swimming pool, restaurant, bar, WiFi, TV, daily house cleaner, free water and electric. The self catering apt. has an East and a South balcony on the top floor and is very quiet, secluded and comfortable with AirCon. Weather is hot. Good local beaches, food etc. All you need is a flight and a hire car. Ideal for 2. Could add 2 kids as has a double sofa bed.

Dates are 22 June to 6 July. Only £570 for the 2 weeks.

If interested, please mail me for more info.

 

 

Edited by - ssheldon on 13 Apr 2013 16:50:10

I agree with Johnty, I have my Radtec blocked off approx 3/4 in this cold weather. My temp also drops when blatting unless I do this. I get a steady 80 degs as a result on a stack temp gauge. If it gets hotter, I just regulate it with my heater fan when in traffic!

Jeremy, I suggest you fit a Powerlite Starter - fitted mine 2 years ago and it works every time. There are plenty of threads suggesting all sorts of cheaper options but a starter should work as wired - the standard Skoda one deteriorates over time due to heat. Email me if you want any more info.

I have a Powerlines and it is brilliant on my K series. Mine also has 11 tooth pinion and is slightly offset. This is how they design it for more torque. They used to supply Caterham in the past. Email if you want more info or contact details for someone to talk to at Powerlite - I dealt with the MD.

Hi Dave. I had the same problem with a 1999 K series. Bumped into the Powerlite guys at the Autosport show and they explained the problem. I have no problems starting anywhere, anytime. Suggest you give them a call - I believe they used to supply Caterham in the good old days. Email me if you want any more details. Steve

I suggest you talk to Rob Morley at Ratrace Motorsport who has years of experience racing/setting up sevens. He will stop you wasting your money on unnecessary upgrades. Will also advise re spring rates etc which go hand in hand with good braking performance. You need to turn braking effort into grip not dip! My roadsport runs on standard brake discs/calipers along with Ratrace pads and uprated springs + flatfloor setup + AP M/Cyl and AP brake balance valve to the rear. Handles and stops brilliantly - even on standard tyres. Let me know if you want more info.

 

Edited by - ssheldon on 6 Feb 2013 14:04:35

Thanks for your help Guys - I will call Tom

Are there any good places for 7 mechanical repairs in Dorset or Hampshire?

Thanks

Jonathan - are you planning on supplying any more canisters - is there anyone else who still wants to buy?

As you seem to have changed the thread, I am still interested and would like details when you have them. Thanks. Steve

Hello Tim - I am interested in a set so please can you send me the details.

Thanks. Steve

Jonathan - please can you put me down for 2 canisters. Thanks

I am looking for a complete Rear Anti Rollbar kit (Orange bush) for an Imperial chassis (1999) under diff. Thanks.

I asked Caterham Sales to send me a letter (Caterham headed) stating it is factory fitted etc as some insurance companies cannot find the original model i.e. Rover and may ask you to fit an 'approved' type.