Steve Sheldon

The Nankang is also rated B for wet weather - same as -AO 21r - so it is an intermediate tyre suitable for the road. Has centre groves to clear the water. Talk to the guys at Camskill as they have direct experience of this tyre and the two compounds.

I recommend SPC as the place to go if you need any work or advice re diff - Steve will run you through all the options and technical stuff.

Good reports for Uniroyal Rain Experts

Adams & Page are selling R888 @ £60 each inc VAT & Delivery

I took my S3 seat in similar condition to Oxted Trimmers - who make them. Waited for 1 hr whilst they rebuilt it. Good as new inc some mods re materials and foam replacement.

Link not working

The Powerlite still needs the spacer

Powerlite RAC430 is a brilliant starter on my K 1.8 VVC. Fitted 5 years ago and used a lot. Not missed a beat - oblivious to heat.

I am considering Nankang Sportnex NS-2R - comes in 2 compounds. Good reviews. Anyone any experience with this make?

Thanks Charles

I recently replaced mine with a set of original leads but, if they are working, length is of no importance as far as I am aware. You might have an aesthetics issue for some fussy owners. Spark impedance and radio interference can come with cheaper makes but your engine builder no doubt uses the same supply for all his engines.

Has anyone got a set of perspex wind deflectors no longer needed?

Just to say that if you want to have any diff work done, go to Steve Perks at SPComponents. Did a great job on my diff after another company messed it up! I also sourced 30degs ramps from Germany. Happy to help.

I have built a full working spring loaded window blind which you pull up from within the cockpit. Email if you need any more info.

Thanks for all your input - seems I have an EU2.

Has anyone got a Wiring Diagram - c1999 - with EU1

Thanks

You must turn the Rear cams 180 degs out or else they will spring round under load due to split camshaft. Mark with tippex. Does not work if just lock the front pulleys. Also fit new high tensile bolts and threadlock.

Thanks Stewart. Will take a look.

Does anyone have either of these no longer needed?

Thanks.

Just to say that it is not about the hole being drastic, it will just mess up your cooling system balance more than you can imagine - I have replaced my holed one with normal and it now works perfectly. I am sure others have had the same problem having followed blatchat advice to make the hole!

My experience is not to put a hole in the thermostat as it will mess up your engine running temperature and your heater system - i have tried it over 2 years - even built a radiator pull up blind to keep the engine temp up on cooler days! The engine is designed to run with steady temperature control - this is also giving the ECU messages re fuelling etc.  Best to put a T piece in the highest hose - usually the heater hose and lift the nose of the car up when filling with water. Patience is needed and may take a few times to get all the air out.

You should take the droplinks off the ARB arm. Leave the car/wheels on the ground as normal - needs to have its full weight on the suspension.

Then adjust both dropklinks so they click straight on to the ARB arm without any tension. Fiddly but it works as it should. Do not adjust the links to the shortest length regardless.

By the way, Canley Classics do a replacement rubber boot which fits very neatly (less squashed) without excess rubber which tends to perish quickly - will fail MOT if not grease/dirt tight.

Oil

I have a Powerlite