Steve Causey

I share Clive's position as outlined above. I think a '130 bhp' limit (irrespective of how it's worded) is as likely to put off Sigma owners as it is to encourage them and I'm still struggling to see the need given that Rob has demonstrated, very clearly, that a standard Sigma is very competitive.

I believe that the online forum has been/is a useful process as it does allow more time for people to consider and contribute to the debate. That said I also like Chris' proposal that following the online discussion any changes are formally agreed at a Tech Forum before the Awards lunch. I feel sorry for Matthew if he has to try to pick the bones out of some of the longer, more complex discussions on his own. I would also agree that a 'competitor's only' area would be beneficial. The length and complexity of some of these debates alone would be enough to put off potential competitors! Recognise Matthew's explanation that it's not possible with the new website but I'd like to understand if that's always going to be the case or whether there might be a possibility in the future when the guys working on the website have a little less on their plates?

My thoughts: Number of Runs: I would support the No Limit rule (although I could live with a limit of 6 if it makes Chris' life easier). Similar to some of the earlier posts, most of the events are a long haul for me so I'm looking for as much track time as possible. Stickers: I hate the things! You may have noticed patches of missing paint on my car from previous years. That said, I do accept that we have a duty to the sponsors and should carry the stickers. Edward Lewis: My understanding of Alan's proposal is that we take everybody's performance versus their PB, rank them (ignoring Classes) and then award points to the top 10. If this is correct it seems reasonable to me and would reduce the wet/dry run issue. Might want to consider extending the 'points' to the top 15 so that more people have an opportunity to score? I'd also support Roger's suggestion that 7 scores count rather than the current 5.

I also support keeping the Class 1 rules as they were for 2014. Over the last few seasons we have seen close competition between the K-Series and Sigma engined cars and we've been able to attract some novices who have been competitive (curse you Mr Marsden!). From my perspective 'it ain't broke' so I don't see a need to 'fix it.

Second question this morning! Time to change the rear pads on my 2005 Academy car with standard Caterham rear calipers. I think I have to unbolt the caliper from the alloy 'ear' but do I also need to disconnect the brake line meaning that I would then have to bleed the brakes or is there enough 'give' to be able to leave the pipe connected? Thanks Steve

Time to change the plugs on my 2005 Academy 1.6 K-series. It produces 124 bhp and the original paperwork from Caterham states 'EU3'. Scanning throughout the archives I think the plugs I need are NGK BCPR7ES torqued to 25 Nm - can anyone confirm? Second question is what gap? NGK website says 0.7mm but elsewhere I've seen references to 0.9 mm. Finally, the plugs seem very deep in the engine, any tips for extracting them? Thanks, Steve Edited by - steve causey on 27 Apr 2014 09:01:18

Looks great! Well done to all involved in putting this together.

Thanks Matthew. Does look 'interesting' Does that mean we miss out 'The Ump' second time around?

Hi Nigel - re Aintree and paying in the golf centre. That was the case when we've been there previously but this year the Liverpool MC regulations state - '18. The entrance gates will be open on the Friday evening until 21:00hrs for campers and overnight parking which are free of charge. Gates will be locked from 21:45hrs on Friday evening to 06:30hrs on Saturday morning with no exit or entry between these times.' - so I guess they've changed it.

Can't speak for the hill climbs 'cos I haven't done any of those but for the sprints: Blyton - camping allowed costs £10 Curborough & Aintree - camping for free Llandow - no camping at circuit but most camp at Llandow Caravan Park which is right next door Anglesey - I've not been there for sprints only a trackday but for that I camped in the paddock for free.

Thanks Stef. I'll take the opportunity to look at you car on Saturday. Paul, thanks to you too for the confirmation and suggestion.

Thank you 😳

Well I can answer the first question myself - what happened to the link?????

Having fixed the non-starting issue (I hope!) I noticed that the cooling hoses are looking pretty tired and have decided to replace with silicone parts. The three major hoses i.e. the top and bottom radiator, and the 'J' shaped lower hose seem standard. However there is a long hose that runs from a spigot on the metal tube that joins with the upper rad hose on the LH side of the engine, around the rear of the block to the plastic housing on the RHS engine where the lower 'J' hose attaches. At the rear of the block this hose is split and joined with a connecting piece (IMG 6604). The hose from the upper LH side (IMG 6601)is marked 'car heater hose 5/8" so I assume this is a standard hose size that I would buy by the length. However the other hose from the connector to the plastic housing (IMG 6602)on the engine appears (after some crude measurements, to be larger in diameter (I can't see any markings on it) and a moulded part. I've tried to upload pictures here: If any of this makes sense can anyone: 1. confirm that you can see the pictures - I've not tried this before! 2. confirm that my assumption of different hoses diameters is correct? 3. confirm that the larger lower part is moulded? 4. suggest where I might get a replacement. Some of the silicone kits I've seen show a similar long hose with a right angle bend at the end but with a constant diameter. Is the part I've got one of these longer hoses cut down? Thanks for taking the time to read this!!!!!! I know I can take the hose off and measure it properly but don't want to take the car apart and then have to wait weeks for the new hoses to arrive. Steve Edited by - steve causey on 11 Feb 2014 19:18:59 Edited by - steve causey on 11 Feb 2014 19:19:43 Edited by - steve causey on 11 Feb 2014 19:20:29 Edited by - steve causey on 11 Feb 2014 19:22:51 Edited by - steve causey on 11 Feb 2014 19:24:13

Just to close this out, a new Odyssey battery seems to have fixed it. Thanks for all for the help and advice. Steve

Update. Voltage on cranking is in the range 6 to 7 volts so I think the battery's knackered. Haven't tried jumping yet (waiting for decent leads to a arrive) but have cleaned all the connections on the 'thick' cables. Bit disappointed that the Varley only lasted 3 1/2 years. Based on feedback to earlier post Odyssey seem to be the ones to go for. Is the PC680 Extreme 25 the one I need?

Thanks Roger. Ordered the more expensive ones.

Thanks for all the suggestions. My work plan is: * Clean all the connections * Try Steve's suggestion re holding the master switch * Try Richards suggestion re the switch wiring * Buy some decent jump leads!

Thanks Roger. Pretty sure my leads would fall in the 'terrible' category! Any suggestions who makes good ones??

Thanks for the quick response guys. No haven't tried jumping it from another car. If it starts that would point to the battery. If it does the same thing again that would suggest starter motor - correct?

So my 2005 ex-Academy car, which is used for sprinting, won't start. Symptoms are as follows: * Ignition on - can hear fuel pump running. * Turn to start position - starter turns over very slowly and engine won't start. * Repeated attempts result in starter getting even slower. All of which suggest battery. However: * I installed a Varley Red Top 25 three and a half years ago. Responses to an earlier post suggest that it's unusual for them to fail so quickly. * When in the garage it's always connected to a charger/conditioner. * Conditioner indicates that the battery is fully charged. * 20 mins or so after attempting to start the car as described above and then reconnecting the conditioner it again shows fully charged. * Talked to the Varley DMS guys. They said to fully charge the battery, disconnect the charger and check the voltage 8 hours later (checking immediately after charging can give false results apparently). They said should be 12.8V or above. I'm seeing 12.9V using a meter. So is it the battery or has the starter motor given up? Or is there something else wrong? As far as I can tell all the connections and leads are ok. Sorry for the long post! Steve

Hi Ian, No, today the switch was left on. However, normally when the car is left for long periods on charge the switch is off.

Thanks all. David can you explain a bit more about the FIA switch/capacitor issue you mentioned? I've got an FIA switch which I turn off when the car is in the garage. Tried to start the car again today, charger had been on as usual over the last few days and indicated the battery was fully charged. First time would only turn over slowly and did not start. Put the charger/conditioner back on. Just a few minutes later the charger again indicated the that the battery was fully charged, tried it again and it started as normal.

I installed a Varley Red Top 25 battery in August 2010 after getting fed up replacing the standard Banner battery. Seems the Red Top has now given up the ghost and I'm wondering if 3.5 years is about right for it's life expectancy or whether there is some other underlying problem. Car is used mainly for sprinting with little road use but is connected to a CTEK battery conditioner/charger when in the garage. Any thoughts?

Hi Matthew, as this is looking a bit like a Class 1 pre-season outing I'd also like to join in if possible but understand if you've already got enough Class 1 cars. My car is an ex-academy 1.6 K-series from 2005. Nothing has been touched on the engine, in fact the MSA seals are still in place....... Steve