SPA

Well - I managed to get the can off eventually. I persevered after taking off the driveshaft that I replaced a boot on 15 years ago; I could see that I had re-peened it. Quite a neat job if I say so myself, and it is still doing the job it should. I just couldn't remember whether I had fitted a new can last time or not! Evidently not. So can is off and now I 'just' need to remove the spider with bearings off the drive shaft. Mine do not have a circlip and I do remember from last time that this took a lot of force! There is not enough of an edge for a 3 legged puller (at least not mine) to get a hold. So will be the vice, a large hammer, and some sort of punch to get some purchase on the spider. Stretching a boot over the whole thing is attractive, but I can't see how the small end of the gaiter (24mm ID) is going to go over the can and retain its original size to do the job it should. It might however, stretch enough to go over the spider and bearings. That would mean 1x PITA job per drive shaft instead of 2x. So I may put off trying to get the spider off until I get one of these cone thingies, or even the hydraulic tool referenced by Miker7; got to be worth that price to give it a try? There must still be plenty of 7's about with these older driveshafts? What's the future hold; is there a newer design that fits?

So - started the job today. Driveshaft out - easy! Now - how does the can come off?? I really can't remember whether the kit I purchased 15 years ago came with a can, and therefore I could destroy the old one to get it off, or did I face the situation I face today where I need to get it off in a reusable condition... I can't see any way other than abusing a small screw driver and driving it between the can and the driveshaft at the large end of the can... But it's having very little effect!

Will do. What is this stretchy wizardry? I've read of the type that can be wrapped around but they don't seem to last very long... Can these older driveshafts still be purchased new? Very worse case scenario with the likely price...

Thanks Jonathan. I clearly need to brush up on my searching. Plenty of threads there. What I was surprised by was that a number seem to refer to having to destroy the can to get at the joint. I don't recall having to do that previously. The boot kits I have, do not include a can. I'll maybe check with redline.

Hi Can anyone point me in the direction of some advice on replacing drive shaft gaiters on a 97 dedion, fitted with what I understand are Ford driveshafts? Found something from Low Flying but it refers to the newer type. Not sure how different the process is? Full disclosure - I did replace one 15 years ago. But the only thing I remember was that it involved a lot of brute force! Should have taken notes and photos... PLEASE IGNORE THIS POST (can't find a delete option) - just found my same question from 15 years ago. With answers!! Rather than searching for the topic I should have just looked at my own posts! Doh..

Hi ECR No - light is in middle of dash. (And doesn't feature in the Caterham build manual). It ignites when ignition is on but engine not running. When it was intermittently illuminating the engine revs were not low. Jonathan has helpfully provided some diagrams, but the challenge still seems to be identifying the location of an oil pressure switch that is connected to the warning light.

Hi ECR. No, the sender has only one connector... Appreciate the comment about a mechanical gauge. Have seen that repeated many times. Though I've also seen a line of thought suggesting that if not tracking the car, then there are benefits to minimizing the amount of connectors / hose, and not having oil piped into the cockpit...

I do. They are the original hard copies I was given, and the injected one is a bit blurry (and that's putting aside my eyes deteriorating over the last 23 yrs!). But the key to the diagram lists the components as you have identified. So you would expect the light switch is supplying the gauge and the light? Seems odd? If I pull the wire off the sender when the engine is running the gauge drops back as expected, but the light stays off; that suggests to me the warning light is measuring from elsewhere?

Hi. I have a 97 2.0 vx inj owned since new when I built it. Thought I new what I had by now but I've realised I'm confused by the oil pressure gauge/warning light set-up... It's all original and it has a oil gauge with electric sender (that has been changed once since new), and it also has an oil warning light - I think. I say think as I am not 100% whether that or a 'management' light? Can anyone shed some light? If oil warning as suspected - from where does this measure? Do I have an oil switch in addition to the sender for the gauge? I certainly can't see one. The original caterham wiring diagram is not clear to me in that it seems to differ between the vx inj and carb'd version; with only the carb version indicating an oil sender... I come to be looking at this since a recent development where I had a good gauge reading (albeit slightly higher than the car normally runs), along with an intermittent warning light. Hoping this is a dicky sender rather than something more serious. Any guidance welcome!

I'm considering doing similiar. I assume there is a different bush required between imperial and metric chassis? And where would you recommend going for the bushes? Ta Steve

Thanks Paul Very useful. It's functioned for a long while so was reticent to do any different when going back together, but I will check with Caterham. Sounds as if a function of the flywheel rather than the clutch though - so a new clutch of same spec will require same spacers.. I'll report back with any learnings. Cheers

I have just disassembled my 20 year old clutch. First time since being supplied by Caterham. I noticed that the clutch cover is retained by the 6 bolts but that there is a washer between the cover and the flywheel. Is that normal? The VX guidance suggests there should just be a spring washer under the head of the bolt - of which there were none on mine. Intrigued whether the 'spacer' washer is a common thing, and whether I should change my intentions of reassembling as I found it.. Ta

Finally logged in! Big thanks to Nigel for posting this before I had chance. And a thanks for the feedback also. Car should hopefully be delivered tomorrow and I can get first proper look at what we're up against. Cause is a strange one - Bolts have been in there 20 years - and they weren't over torqued. Coming loose and the resulting play leading to failure seems more plausible....? For sure I won't be rushing into it!

Pretty sure mine is a square belt - will check at weekend. Thanks for the advice!

I need to do a few jobs on the engine of my 97 HPC - new timing belt and tensioner, new sump gasket & seals, etc. Anyone able to advise whether I should go to GM (as I've done before) or some other supplier? Also - how do I find the spec of the Caterham unique parts - eg, oil filter, alternator belt. Call to Caterham? (Maybe stating the obvious..!)

Cheers Duncan. And reading that thread you are using mainly on the road - rather than trackdays etc? Think I'm gong to go that route. Will just need to change if not happy!

Forgive me for bringing up a regular topic - but I'm hoping that someone can reassure me I am buying an ok combination of pads for my '97 VX 2.0. From reading various threads I was going to go for 1144's at the front, like these: lhttp://www.burtonpower.com/brake-pads-escort-mk1-p16-not-rs-cortina-mk1-base-mgb533m1144.html and the upgraded Caterham rear, like these: http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=668 The car has standard calipers & is for enthusiastic road use. I'm unsure whether the calipers have chnaged over the years? Am I getting the most suitable? And finally - where best to get them? Ta

Jon - that looks just the part. Just ordered. Fingers crossed they're the right size! First time I've been in contact with that company - seem very pleasant to deal with! Cheers

Stu - you sound as if you're describing exactly the part...

My 97 7 is in need of one of the small 'clasps' that hold the light unit in the chrome bowl. These are 7" bowls and I'm having trouble finding such a thing; I believe newer cars are fitted with 5" bowls of a different design..? After hitting a pot hole the sealed unit was knocked out and the afore mentioned clasp proceeded to come loose and was lost. For the sake of a tuppence part I was hoping to avoid buying new lamps! To clarify, there is a pan head bolt in the top of the bowl that screws into this clasp which is pulled against the inside of the bowl and the beam unit holding the two together. Hardened metal, approx 26mm long, 12mm wide, with a tapped hole for the bolt. Anyone able to advise where I might get one of these? I've tried a car parts suppliers but with no luck...

Thanks for all the advice!

Thanks for that guys. I'll try good ol' fashioned oil. Failing that I'll replace the bushes I guess. Is there just one at each end of the steering column? And they can be pulled out easy enough?

I have a very annoying squeak from my steering when manoeuvring at slow speed. Pretty sure it's coming from the column bushes, but wondered if anyone else has experienced this and what was done about it. I have tried a squirt of silicon lubricant and that may briefly reduce the problem - but not for long. Can't put up with it much longer. Car is 13 years old - do I need to replace the bushes?

Further to the first question - can anyone advise where I should go to obtain steel wheels & winter tyres to temporarily replace the 18" alloys on a tin top? I want smaller wheels and a larger profile tyre - but whilst I guess it's relatively straight forward to calculate the rolling diameter required, how do I ensure the wheel fits over the disc?

Malcolm - I'll take the immobiliser if still available pls? From an Englishman in Wales to another in Scotland....!