Mole

I want to install an intercom system, but being the proud owner of a useful accessory called a windscreen, I don't want the type designed to be fitted in a helmet. I want to use the type of headset usually used with telephones, mobile phones and computers (slimline, 1 or 2 earpieces and boom mike). The problem is that there seems to be a compatability problem with the connectors. Most intercom systems use either 3.5mm minijacks or DIN plugs, most headsets use 2.5mm minijacks (for mobiles), 2 x 3.5 minijacks (for PC soundcards) or RJ45 (for telephones). I don't want to use the bulky practice headsets that are available for some rallying intercoms. Does anyone know of anything that meets the spec.? SV 52 CAT - can moles fly - you bet!

Oil pressure sender, clutch cable, throttle cable, clutch release bearing, starter, alternator ...... SV 52 CAT - can moles fly - you bet!

Thanks all - looks like it will work a treat! SV 52 CAT - the mole is airborne

Can anyone advise what I need to do to make my headlamps suitable for a trip to France? In the past I've always bought the stick-on beam deflectors specific to whatever tin-top I had at the time - these usually come with diections on exactly where to position them. I have no idea how to achieve this with the Se7en (or is it a case of re-aligning the headlights for continental driving and then re-adjusting when I'm back in the UK?) SV 52 CAT - the mole is airborne

TADTS! Mine clocked up a couple of miles before it ever saw a road ❗ SV 52 CAT - the mole is awake

My engine is a 2003 1.8 K with standard wet sump. I have tried checking the oil level cold and "hot and running". A couple of weeks ago the "dancing oil pressure guage" symptoms suddenly appeared which I immediately put down to a dodgy oil pressure sender as this seems to be the received wisdom of various threads on BC. (I'm ashamed to admit that this was on a "Sunday driver" outing with no excessive cornering speeds etc!!) I had previously checked the oil level cold and it was above the series of crosses on the yellow plastic end of the dipstick. Checking hot and running the level was about half way up the crosses (i.e. about half way between what I take to be the min and max points). Adding enough oil to bring the level up to the max mark with the engine running restored a rock steady oil pressure (phew!). This led me to two conclusions: 1. The oil should be kept well topped up as there is a risk of starvation even when the level is well above the min. mark. 2. Checking the level hot and running is (obviously) a much better indication of the what the engine sees in normal operation -the cold oil level really isn't a reliable measure. Oh - and a third conclusion - although the pressure senders have a reputation for being unreliable, don't automatically assume that fluctuating oil pressure is down to the sender! SV 52 CAT - the mole is awake

I know it sounds obvious but check that you don't have any very small leaks in the system. When I first built mine I had brakes that worked but were "uninspiring". At first I thought this was because the pads needed bedding in, but I traced it to a very minor leak at the joint where the line passes through the bodywork to the front offside caliper. It was so minor that there was no obvious leak, just some seepage of fluid. Once the joint was tightened, the pedal became firm. SV 52 CAT - the mole is awake

Thanks V7 - I'm not all that worried - just wondered why there was a valve there in the first place SV 52 CAT - the mole is awake

After further investigation, I have concluded that the ticking noise is coming from one of the injectors. I have noticed that the noise disappears on the overrun when the throttle is closed completely - i.e. when fuel is cut off, but reappears as soon as the engine resumes idling. SV 52 CAT - the mole is awake

When fitted with the standard induction system, my 1.8 k series had a small pipe running from the cooling system "header" tank to the cylinder head via a small valve in the flange of the plenum. Having now upgraded to throttle bodies, there is now no valve, it having been replaced with a plain spigot tapped into the flange of the forward throttle body in the appropriate place. What is the purpose of the valve in the standard set-up and what is the effect of removing it as I have done in fitting the TBs? SV 52 CAT - the mole is awake

Hi Chris - Driving "normally" it's about the same as the water temp - i.e. about 85 - 90. Driven hard, the oil temp rises to above 90 but I don't remember ever seeing it even touch 100. I've also got water wetter in the cooling system which also seems to help to keep everything a bit cooler as well. SV 52 CAT - the mole is awake

I've fitted a Laminova (oil/water heat exchanger) and find this has two advantages: a) when cold, the oil warms up quicker (it uses the heat in the cooling system to heat the oil); b) when hot, the oil keeps a more even temperature (it uses the cooling system to take excess heat out of the oil). A lot of people fit the Laminova with an apollo, but you can fit it alone (as I have done). The only disadvantages that I have found is that when stuck in traffic, the cooling system has to deal with disposing of more heat than it would without the heat exchanger and the indicated oil pressure at idle is a bit lower than previously (about 1 bar compared with 2bar before fitting the Laminova). 🤔 This also gives a neat solution for fitting the oil temp sender as this can be fitted in the sandwich plate which gives the take-off and return for the pipes that go to the heat exchanger. SV 52 CAT - the mole is awake

Good point chrisdl - also bear in mind that the thread on the sender is tapered so to get a good seal you will be exerting more outward force than you would get with a normal straight thread! SV 52 CAT - the mole is awake

For reasons too complicated to explain I have resorted to removing the ECU fuse each night to stop the battery going flat! I am thinking of fitting a circuit-breaker type fuse with a cut off switch so I can just switch off the circuit instead of continually removing and refitting the fuse. The standard ECU fuse is rated at 30A, the highest rated circuitbreaker style (with cut off) is rated at 25A. Since vehicle electrics is a bit of a black art as far as I am concerned , can anyone tell me whether 25A will be OK or am I going to have problems. Engine is a 1.8k series, EU3. SV 52 CAT - the mole is awake

Being naturally risk-averse, I would be hesitant to start drilling and tapping anything round the sump. Have you thought of fitting a the temp sender in a sandwich plate and connecting the inlet and outlet points with a short loop of pipe until such time as you want to fit an apollo or oil cooler? This makes the whole thing a bolt-on mod with none of the risks of trying to drill and tap anything SV 52 CAT - the mole is awake

I'm off to check for loose spark plugs 😬 SV 52 CAT - the mole is awake

It is possible to get a sandwich plate which is tapped to take a temperatuure sender so if you have (or planning to have) a set-up that uses a sandwich plate (e.g. an apollo tank, laminova or trad oil cooler) then this is probably the easiest method. I think the oil pressure fitting also has a blanked off tapping that could be used in the same way. In answer to one of your other questions, I have always used a fresh washer whenever I have removed the sump bolt. The crushable type seems to give the best seal, but once used they don't work as effectively second time around! SV 52 CAT - the mole is awake

I noticed yesterday after a 40 mile blat that the ticking noise seemed to have disappeared. It was back again on re-start after a 20 minute stop. This makes me wonder if it is a tappet that is just very slow to fill and drains down once the oil is hot. SV 52 CAT - the mole is awake

Since fitting Jenvey DTH TBs,air box and Emerald ECU, my 1.8 K-series seems to have developed a ticking noise when running. It varies with engine speed and seems to be on the inlet side but I can't locate it any closer than that. At first I thought that it might be one of the hydraulic tappets that hadn't oiled up, but it's the same after after a blat as it is at startup. I have changed the cams BUT I ran the new cams with the standard MEMS and plenum before fitting the TBs etc and didn't have this noise (or could it have been muffled by the plastic plenum?) There doesn't seem to be any effect on running, the engine idles and revs smoothly (certainly much better than in standard form). Does anyone else have a ticking engine? What could it be? Is anything getting damaged? SV 52 CAT the mole is hibernating

To answer my own question again - it's already wired in on the EU3 loom - pin 53 (the first pin on the smaller of the two ECU plugs SV 52 CAT the mole is hibernating

I've just heard from Karl at Emerald - the answer is pin 72 SV 52 CAT the mole is hibernating

Can anyone tell me which pin on the EU3 ECU connectors is the immobiliser signal input to the ECU? SV 52 CAT the mole is hibernating

Has anyone wired a shift light on K-series with an EU3 loom? The build manual (which is clearly refering to an EU2) mentions a black wire with a special connector which needs to be inserted at pin 19 of the ECU plug. I don't seem to have this wire anywhere so what do you connect to what to get the shift light working? Is the connection already plumbed into one of the EU3 ECU connectors? Presumably someone has done a supersport upgrade on an EU3 and must have solved this problem? SV 52 CAT the mole is hibernating

I have come to the conclusion (probably obvious) that the immobiliser problem is down to there being nothing connected to pin 13 (immobilizer input) on the EU3 adaptor for the Emerald. Since this seems such an obvious ommission, I assume that there must be a reason for it. I've e-mailed Oily and Karl at Emerald but have yet to hear back. I'll post something when I do. SV 52 CAT the mole is hibernating Edited by - mole on 25 Mar 2003 08:54:00

Is this something new? I didn't do anything like this for my SVA last August in Taunton and it passed ..... SV 52 CAT the mole is hibernating