Mole

Rather than dismantling anything last night I just tried sitting on the back and bouncing a bit. It was clear that the suspension was moving although not very much! Using the rubber bushes on the damper "shaft" as a guide (i.e. I pushed them down against the main body and then looked at how far they've moved once I'd bounced a bit) I had achieved about 3/4" (I weigh about 12.5 st.) I would be interested to know if this is the amount of movement that would normally be expected - can anyone comment? Perhaps one of you guys with a normally adjusted se7en could do the same test and let us know? Keep flying low The Mole @ the molehill

I've noticed the same lack of movement on the rear suspension on my SV. With axle stands under the rear chassis cross members, the de dion tube sits just above the chassis side members. With axle stands under the de dion (and with the car with it's wheels on the ground) the clearance between the tube and the chassis hardly changes at all. I had put this down to the stiffness of the springs and the fact that with no-one in the car the rear end really isn't very heavy. But even when I sit in the car or lean on the back - it really doesn't make much difference. HOw much travel would you expect to see? I think I'll try the suggestion of detaching the dampers from the de dion tube and checking the range of movement. It was certainly OK earlier in the build before I attached the Watts linkage arms. Watch this space for me to report back! Keep flying low The Mole @ the molehill

I completed the installation of my engine & drivetrain a couple of weeks ago having spent a lot of time ensuring that everything is centered as accurately as possible - i.e. the diff is centered on the chassis side members to within 1mm, I have fiddled with the position of the gearbox mount to give as equal clearance as possible between the bellhousing / gearbox and tunnel sides etc. So everything is as accurate as I could possibly make it (or so I thought). Last night, while fiddling about in preparation for trial fitting the tunnel top, I noticed that the prop shaft has only about 1/4 inch clearance from the tunnel side on the passenger side. The clearance on the driver's side is at least double this (and probably more). I'm not worried that the shaft doesn't run down the exact centre line, but it does worry me that it is so close on one side. I suspect that there isn't much lateral movement - so this probably isn't a problem but it would be good if someone could confirm this for me. My logic is that since the differential has no lateral play, and the closest point is about half way down the length of the shaft, it would require 1/2 inch movement of the gearbox to cause any contact and if the gearbox is moving this much then I have a real problem! Anyone got any experience of this? Keep flying low The Mole @ the molehill

Isn't this the perfect excuse to change to cycle wings? Keep flying low The Mole @ the molehill

Changed it for a Se7en? Keep flying low The Mole @ the molehill

I have reading various threads about K series engine temperatures and cooling and I am tempted to fit a Laminova oil/water heat exchanger. However, I am concerned about the reports of reduced oil pressure. I am still building the car and something tells me that I would be better to leave the installation of a Laminova until later so I can have the benefit of the higher oil pressure of the standard set-up at least during the running-in period. Is my thinking correct or am I just seeing dangers where there are none? The Mole - it's better than being a rat

I have spoken Caterham and have the definitive answer!The thick wire from the alternator attaches to the same stud on the starter motor solenoid as the thick red wire that goes to the live terminal on the battery. This applies to the latest (EU3) version of the K series 1.8. The previous version of the same engine (EU2) had a long wire that attached directly to the +ve battery terminal. Apparently it was decided that a long wire was pointless where a short one would do - hence the reason for the change and the confusion on this thread! The also recommend attaching the engine end of the earth strap to one of the unused threads in the side of the block (rather than to one of the engine mount bolts. This is for two reasons: i) it doesn't compromise the strength of the engine mount bolt; ii) if (like me) you have already torqued the mount bolts to the correct setting, it avoids having to interfere with this just to fit the earth strap - not a good idea once the weight of the engine is on the mount (and avoids all the messing about of taking the engine weight off the mount etc.). The Mole - it's better than being a rat

Thanks everyone - seems to have generated a bit of debate! I think I've got most of it sussed now - the short and long "battery" type leads both fit OK (for earth strap and bellhousing => -ve terminal respectively). John - your para 14.4(a) is my 10.3, but your 14.4 © doesn't seem to appear anywhere! As far as the cable from the alternator - there is no mention at all in the manual! It isn't part of a loom - it's out on its own, and it definitely isn't long enough to reach the +ve battery terminal. It is long enough (any has the right terminator) to fit to a starter motor terminal - and since this is the only connection point within range (other than the chassis) I guess this is going to be the answer. Unfortunately I think I feel a call to Caterham coming on - ho hum. I don't have a battery master switch The Mole - it's better than being a rat

Thanks guys - I've obviously got this completely wrong! I had wondered what the two black "battery cables" were for! I don't recall any mention in the manual about the cable from the alternator attaching to the starter solenoid! Looks like an evening of studying ahead! It all reminds me of Hoffnung's bricklayer - "when I had finished there were some bits left over ...." The Mole - it's better than being a rat

I have read lots in the archives about the merits of different degrees (sorry no pun intended) of toe-in, toe-out etc. Stupid question but, what equipment is necessary to be able to set the alignment to the level of accuracy required? Clearly it would be useful to have access to such equipment to be able to experiment with different settings (i.e. own it) so is it expensive and where can I get it from (! assume that it's too technical for Halfrauds - they don't even do 41mm sockets!)? I also followed the instructions on the number of turns for attaching the track rod ends (I seem to remember it was 11) and was left with very noticeable toe-out. It took another 3 turns each side to get to what looks like parallel - has anyone else had this problem? 1.8K SV (wide track suspension) The Mole - it's better than being a rat

The build manual says attach the engine earth strap to bare metal under the right hand side engine mounting rubber. I have assumed that this "strap" is the thick insulated wire coming from the alternator (which is exactly the right length to attach under the front bolt of the left hand mounting rubber).There seems to be no other reference to this anywhere else in the manual! Is my assumption correct? 1.8 K series SV. The Mole - it's better than being a rat

I bought a copy of the manual before I ordered my car just to get an idea of what was involved in the build. The manual is useful to give a general idea, but don't believe all the details. I discovered all sorts of inaccuracies in the first week and very quickly became bored with ringing the Caterham technical support line only to be told that the manual was wrong/out of date. I very quickly realised that Blatchat was a much better source of information .... My advice would be use the manual to understand the basics of what you will need to do, but when it actually comes to the build you need to apply a lot of common-sense and copious pinches of salt! As with most manuals - for the guidance of wise-men and the obedience of fools! The Mole - it's better than being a rat

Caterham visitors are always welcome at the molehill .... The Mole - it's better than being a rat

I know this is probably a really stupid question (you'll have to get used to them) but why is there a gasket between the gearbox and bellhousing? I had always assumed that gaskets were there to provide a fluid or gas-tight seal but in this case it won't! The bellhousing has a machined flat face, the corresponding face on the 'box (Caterham supplied 5-speed) is for the most part machined flat, but at the bottom, the body of the box doesn't quite reach the level of the machined flat part. Although the gasket runs round this section, it doesn't create a tight seal. As usual when something doesn't make sense I think I must have missed something! Is the gasket supposed to create a seal or is it there just to absorb vibration? 1.8K, SV The Mole

Thanks all - I did some experimenting last night so I think I should be OK now (as far as lifting the lump is concerned!). I've got some webbing straps rated at 1000kg so now I can lift the whole car! Never thought that the build manual might mean the right-hand mount, I've been mislead by the manual in so many other places that I should have spotted this. I'm getting tired of ringing tech support line to be told the manual isn't (quite)right, but from reading the archives it looks as though this is part of the Caterham experience that all self-builders go through. You guys who buy complete cars just don't know what you're missing ..... Mike - I don't seem to have got your e-mail, could you re-send, or for the benefit of others it may be worth posting the picture here? The Mole Edited by - Mole on 21 May 2002 08:49:28

Thanks. You seem to be confirming what the build manual says - it sounds as though the problem is the clearance between the studs and the chassis diagonals. I was hoping that it would be possible to fit the manifold after the engine was bolted in position, this way I could lift the engine with the sling securely towards the centre. If the manifold needs to be attached with the lump still suspended then the sling needs to be at the extreme ends of the block (to keep well clear of where the exh. manifold is going to fit) which seems a) less secure and b) risks damaging other bits (e.g. the alternator, starter motor, plenum etc.). I am assuming that there are no lifting points on the engine (I can't see anything obvious) and that it has to be lifted with a sling that passes underneath the whole thing - is this correct? Or am I just missing something obvious - has everyone else done this without a problem? The point about reducing the length of the studs is very useful advice. The Mole

The next step in the build of my 1.8 K Roadsport SV is the installation of the engine & gearbox. According to the build manual it is "impossible" to fit the standard exhaust manifold if the left hand engine mount is in place. Is this really true because I can't see anything obvious that would stop the manifold being fitted after the engine mount and it looks as though it would be much easier to lift the engine safely if it were possible to fit the exhaust manifold once the engine is installed in the chassis? If the build manual is correct this would mean that if I wanted to change the manifold some time in the future, this would be an engine-out job (which I find hard to believe). Does the additional dimensions of the SV chassis make any difference? The Mole

test mess - biggrin.gif The Mole - SV52CAT Edited by - Mole on 17 May 2002 01:26:13