seventh-heaven

Anyone know what car the coolant expansion tank came from on a 1994 k series chassis. It is the flatter one with the 2 lugs at the front rather than the later rounder one. Need a cap and it would be easier to pop down to the local factors rather than order online - but I need to know what it is!! This is the cap - Expansion Cap I think it was a Rover 200 or Metro but not sure!? Thanks

This takes me back - this was what I had planned to do with my in 1994 when I first built it! Ended up taking the easier route of a Zetec. Good luck!!

The picture of the fuel pump on your blog looks like it is based on the standard Caterham injection pump which is based on a Rover 200 pump not a Ford design. Is that why they are hard to get hold of I wonder?

Lloyds Specialist Developments have fitted Canems kit to Beetles including this one - here. I have previously read a full article about this fitting of this Beetle but I can't currently find it. I came across them when searching out a system for my V8 MGB. Edited by - seventh-heaven on 22 Mar 2014 09:25:15

I have a similar age and spec car to you and have a ratlly/noisy neutral and has been like that since the day it was built! Are you sure there is a problem?

Does anyone know the type & size of threaded connection for the fuel pipe from the standard in tank pump? Just installed the spare I had ready for the conversion on the 7 into my MGB V8 conversion and now need to make up a pipe! Thanks Andy

Is this pump still available? Edited by - seventh-heaven on 20 Aug 2013 17:23:56

I may be making the wrong assumption but putting together the info you have provided I am assuming that with the stat removed, the engine runs ok at idle, that the fans come on at 60 degrees Centigrade and that the engine temp continues to rise to 100 degrees Centigrade but without blowing water out. If that is the case it has another problem. I would not expect the temp to get anywhere near 100 degrees with fan running. On my zetec the temp drops very rapidly from about 98 when fan cuts in.

Cibie H180s and Philips Xtreme Vision from Power Bulbs

On VAG 2.0 diesel if there is a faulty injector unplugging it allows engine to run on remaining 3 cylinders! Might we worth a try.

A bit of a technical conundrum for the collective techie brains to get into on a dull Saturday afternoon! I am looking at a friends Polo - a 2002 1.4 16v 100 bhp. Bit of background - the car has done 92000 miles and is in generally good condition although it is clear that the current owner has taken it for granted and neglected it for the 2/3 years of her ownership - maintenance is done on failure only! She has been complaining that in the last 6 months a number of issues have occurred which have led to it being unreliable including: - poor starting from cold - Engine fault light (download shows to be 16786 - EGR System P0402-35-00 Excessive Flow) - occasional breakdown when engine stops but then starts a bit later - started to need regular top ups of engine oil I have removed the EGR valve and it is sticking and not functioning properly, but it appears to be sticking closed not open. The pipe from the EGR valve to the throttle body looks newer than the rest of the engine bay kit, but once out the carbon in it whilst not excessive shows it has been there a while. Had all the plugs out to do a compression test and they all seem high at around 170-180psi. Now it could be the gauge but I used same gauge on another engine within last 3 months and got more realistic readings. Plugs were very worn and so replaced and now it appears to start much better from cold so that symptom is probably a red herring in respect of the the EGR symptom. I reassembled the EGR valve and pipe with a cardboard gasket to block it off. Sure enough when I go out for a test drive I can get the EGR Excessive Flow fault to reappear - so I know that this is an incorrect diagnosis on the basis there was no flow through the EGR! Now I have never driven this car before (and used to driving a A6 3.0 TDi as well as the 7!) but none the less it felt a bit flat for 100hp. It would rev to the red line ok but not at the pace I expected. So the question is what else could it be. My thinking currently is as follows: - leak on EGR pipe where it goes into the Throttle body. O ring is there but could be leaking; - Block cat causing excessive back pressure in the exhaust hence causing high compressions and poor air flow through the cylinder - If the flow through the cylinder is restricted then for a specific engine speed and throttle opening the manifold pressure will be higher than the ECU would expect leading it to think that the flow from the EGR is causing it. - Worn exhaust cam again restricting flow but I would not expect it to be so consistent across all 4 pots; - air leak in the manifold of vac system - one is not obvious but difficult to be sure. I suppose a Vac gauge could be used to draw a vacuum in the inlet and see if it leaks away. However this would not explain the high compression readings. Any other suggestions or suggestions of how to check the above easily would be appreciated. Thanks Edited by - seventh-heaven on 9 Mar 2013 13:52:55

Having checked it is a 165 SR15

I need to move a Beetle that is currently off road and it only has 3 tyres that will hold air. Looking for an old tyre or wheel with Tyre or old set of unwanted alloys. Thanks Andy

V5C document should have a comment on the front page that says something like "kit built.......". Alternatively find a MOT centre used by other Caterham owners.

Did a lot of investigation into this at the time and found a number of recommendations for 600 TBs (38mm choke) rather than 750 or 1000 (42mm choke) for 1800 Zetec on the basis of dyno runs that showed better torque and similar power. Can't recall where I saw it though. Started having a scout round on google and will let you know if I find anything.

I have a set of GSXR 600 throttle bodies that are all seperate. Bought with the intention of doing exactly what you are looking at but in the end I stumbled on some Weber Throttle bodies that will fit straight onto my existing manifold. Let me know if you are interested or want to have a look see and play. Andy

You have checked that the battery isn't flat..............

They are known as bent beam nuts. Usually used where high temp or other enviroment issues might cause degradation of nylon bit of nyloc.

Is he using the older thin metal ones or the more recent composite ones? Does it always blow combustion gasses into the valley? Stick with the composite ones and also only put 10 bolts back in not 14 - omit the 4 at the outer edge and just use the 10 that are at the corners if that makes sense! And yes Rimmer Bros as good as anywhere for a relatively standard engine. Edited by - seventh-heaven on 24 May 2012 23:12:19

I have used Pristine Alloys in Woburn on several occasions and been pleased with results. http://www.pristinealloywheels.co.uk/

Has anyone fitted dry sump to their Zetec in a 7? I aquired a pace dry sump kit for a steal and have been meaning to try and fit it for a while, but I am concerned that the pump arrangement will foul one of the front chassis tubes. If anyone has done it and can send a few photos that would be great - or if I could have a look if you are at Stonleigh on Sunday. Thanks Andy

Most electronic gauges have a +12v feed to the gauge that is seperate to any feed to the lights - so if the lights are working but nothing else is I would first check the +12v feed to the gauge. Is it still attached and is there 12v?

Also running origonal Ford Thermostat housing with Dunnel set up. Runs bang on 90 apart from in traffic when needle is close to 100 before fan kicks in but pulls it back down to 94/95 before switching off.

I have always used Mobil 1 0W40 without problems - but now using Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 which I can also use in my diesel Audis!!

Sound good!